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Comments
David McArthur
25 Nov 2007, 15:36
Hello,
recently, I forgot to pay my gas bill, so the gas company turned off my
service. I paid the reconnect fee, and a technician came out and turned
the gas back on. However he refused to turn the gas on to the water
heater, because he stated that it was not up to code. My water heater
vents through the wall versus the roof. Is that correct? I live in North
Carolina.
Thanks for your help
ATB
25 Nov 2007, 17:10
Although there is a universal building code, local authorities can modify
it. For this reason, it is impossible and impractical for me to answer your
question. I could easily spend my entire career tracking all of the
versions. Summary: Call your local code authorities.
Chris
26 Nov 2007, 13:29
I have a similar situation with my water heater/furnace chimney. The
existing chimney is metal pipe (most likely double walled, but I don't know
that for certain) that extends from the basement where the (NG)water
heater and (NG) furnace tie in, up to and out of the roof about a foot and
a half. About 3 years ago, we replaced the original 20 year old furnace
with a new furnace, not a high efficiency model, but much more efficient
than the older one. This year, we replaced the water heater with a
standard efficiency model. since the installation of the water heater, we
have noticed a lot of moisture on the roof during colder periods, and even
build up of ice during extended periods of cold. Is this something that a
liner would fix, or is it indicative of another problem? The furnace has a
4 inch pipe, the water heater a 3, both tie in to a 6-8 inch pipe.
ATB
26 Nov 2007, 13:37
It is just the water vapor in the exhaust gas. There is little you can do
to stop the problem.
Liz
03 Dec 2007, 20:02
Hi! The vent to the outside water heater goes back into the house just
above a cupboard in the kitchen. The wall paint on the side of the cupboard
is beginning to bubble and chip away. It's really warm inside the cupboard.
Outside, there is a lot of moisture above the water heater which is
enclosed in a metal closet. I had a new roof put on 2 years ago. Could the
roofers have done anything wrong with the vents? Should I have the vent
rerouted to stay outside of the house?
Help!
AsktheBuilder
04 Dec 2007, 04:47
Liz,
The vent, in my opinion, should stay outside. I can't imagine why anyone
would make it go in then out!
Jeff
05 Dec 2007, 16:21
I adding on to a cabinet, making it two feet taller. In the process of
extending the wall into the attic I am getting close to the hot water flue
pipe. I notice that there is sheet metal between it and the other boards
in the attic and the flue is several inches away from them. Do I need to
maintain the same distance, and do I need to add sheet metal to the exposed
(to the flue) side of my new boards? Thanks!
AsktheBuilder
05 Dec 2007, 17:14
Jeff,
Maintain that same distance!
Larry Adamson
08 Dec 2007, 11:24
I bought a house which apparently has a high efficiency gas furnace witch
is power vented. The vent is a very long pvc pipe. During the winter I get
a large amount of condensation in the exhaust pipe. I just had the power
vent motor replaced and water poured from the exhaust pipe when it was
disconnected. How can I handle this condensation?
AsktheBuilder
08 Dec 2007, 11:51
Larry,
The condensation is normal. But all of it is supposed to drain by gravity
to a floor drain. Get the written installation instructions for the
furnace, read the section about the PVC vent-pipe and see if it was
installed correctly.
Terry
10 Dec 2007, 09:53
My gas hot water heater vents into a 4" aluminum flex pipe which runs in a
clay 6" x 4" clay flue lined chimney for app 30 feet vertical. In cold
weather the flue will not vent and cold air spills down the pipe exiting at
the flue collar at the top of the water heater. The gas exhaust blows
sideways into my basement. Do you think 30' is too far for an uninsulated
pipe to go inside the chimney? Should I vent through the wall instead?
AsktheBuilder
10 Dec 2007, 10:12
Terry,
Please read my two columns titled Orphaned Water Heaters.
Gary Szymanski
12 Dec 2007, 11:56
is there a power vent made that you could vent your hot H2O tank the same
way as the furnace so there would be no need for the chimmney?
Stuart
12 Dec 2007, 21:09
Can I add a powered vent to a standard gas water heater? I am looking for
a way to prevent smoke from my wood fireplace from being drawn into the
house through the water heater flue.
Mark
14 Dec 2007, 12:04
I am replacing and moving my water heater. I am moving it to a location
that only alows the the vent to exit the house at 4" above the ground. One
plumber I talked with says I can take the vent out at 4", then up 10"
(outside) to the final vent location. Another plumber says the vent will
ice up causing problems. Who is right?
AsktheBuilder
15 Dec 2007, 07:56
Gary,
Yes, those heaters exist.
AsktheBuilder
15 Dec 2007, 09:49
Stuart,
No, you can't add a power vent to a regular water heater. Besides, that is
not your problem. Your house does not have enough make up air. Go read this
column:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/446_Fresh-Air_Intake_Vents.shtmlhttp://www.ask
thebuilder.com/446_Fresh-Air_Intake_Vents.shtml
AsktheBuilder
15 Dec 2007, 13:11
Mark,
The plumber that is quoting the building code requirements in your area is
right.... Call the building department on Monday to settle this. I can't as
the code is not completely uniform across the entire USA.
Red
19 Dec 2007, 11:09
I have a standard gas water heater with the galvanized type vent pipe that
goes up throught the finished garage ceiling to the top of my 2-story
house. I want to upgrade to a tankless water heater that requires a
different stainless steel vent pipe. My question is: Does the whole run
to the roof have to be upgraded to the higher quality stainless vent pipe?
I live in the San Jose, California area and would like to comply with any
building codes for the area.
AsktheBuilder
19 Dec 2007, 11:47
Red,
Contact your local Building Department for the answer.
Charlene
12 Jan 2008, 13:25
We recently purchased a new home. The hot water heater does not have a pan
under it nor drainage in case the heater goes up. Can you tell me if this
is a code violation. And, what do I need to do? Please I need help bad.
The builder says that it is not necessary to have a overflow pipe from the
pan.
AsktheBuilder
12 Jan 2008, 13:40
Charlene,
I could give you the answer, but your builder might thumb his nose at me.
But he *will* listen to your local building inspector. Call the inspector
as soon as you can and ask him to come for a visit.
mike sick
23 Jan 2008, 18:59
I replaced my NG water heater about three years ago. I vented it the same
as the old one, through a 3" vent pipe at the base of the chimney in my
basement. I have two chimneys and as far as I can tell the water heater is
the only thing that has ever vented through the one it is hooked up to.
Everything has been fine until this winter when I noticed water dripping
from the vent pipe connection. It is a lot of water! I figure it is just
condensation, but why now and not three years ago? Is their a vent pipe I
can buy that has a water trap device of some sort that I can divert the
water to a drain? Thanks!
AsktheBuilder
24 Jan 2008, 15:07
Mike,
Is it a lot colder this winter? Read my past columns about Condensation.
Bruno Cervi
27 Jan 2008, 23:13
Question: I have a gas water heater and want to know if the it is normal to
have a down draft of cold air coming down from my chimmey through the vent
pipe that extends towards the top of the gas water heater. Also, when the
water heater is heating up, there seems to be a lot of hot air blowing out
at the top of the water heater (space between the top of the water heater
and the vent pipe). If you put your hand near it, you can feel very hot air
or exhaust coning out.
AsktheBuilder
28 Jan 2008, 10:44
Bruno,
The cold air coming down is normal. Cold air is heavy and falls while warm
air goes up. You should check the chimney for blockages - it is not normal
for exhaust air to leak out where you can feel it.
Tom
31 Jan 2008, 13:04
I have a closet that contains both the furnance and water heater. There
are no exterior walls. This winter, it seems that the hotwater pipes have
frozen. There is a vent from the closet to the attic and the downward
draft of cold air is noticeable. Last night I placed a thermometer on the
floor and the temperature went down into the 30's. Outside temperature went
down to 24. The house temperature is set at 62 at night. Is there
something wrong with this vent set-up?
AsktheBuilder
31 Jan 2008, 13:32
Tom,
You have a massive air leak from above where the air is getting around the
sides of the vent pipes.
Pagie Gross
12 Feb 2008, 14:59
My gas water heater is in my garage, with the vent on the roof. Everytime
we get a windstorm it blows out my pilot light. what can I do to prevent
this ?
AsktheBuilder
12 Feb 2008, 15:48
Paige,
Fabricate a wind shield that is a giant tube that fits around the existing
vent pipe. It will block wind that is coming sideways.
Nick
14 Feb 2008, 22:28
I recently noticed a small dripping leak of water right where our gas water
heater vents to the basement wall. The water drips down the side of the
basement wall from the vent connection. It looks like this has been going
on about a week. I have also noticed a distinct burning smell coming from
the water heater and it appears that the rings where the water pipes run
into the top of the water heater are partly melted. I have only noticed the
smell over the past couple of days when either the furnance or water heater
is on. I hope that makes sense. There is no fire or smoke and we have a
carbon monoxide detector in the basement. I am calling some professionals
but would appreciate your take on it.
AsktheBuilder
15 Feb 2008, 17:21
Nick,
It is condensation. Read all of my Condensation columns and the one I have
about Orphaned Water Heaters.
Alex
10 Mar 2008, 14:04
Hi, I have a question re. side-wall venting of gas exhaust from a
residential water heater. Is it permitted to have the stack go through the
wall and not roof, and if yes, is it permitted to vent it under the balcony
/ window?
AsktheBuilder
13 Mar 2008, 10:57
Alex,
Stop down at your local building department and see what they say. It is
impossible for me to answer code questions as each city can have its own
variation.
TODD
15 Mar 2008, 22:24
My son just bought a house with a (ng) water heater. What concerns me is
the venting. It goes through the ceiling of the basement, up through the
closet in the master bedroom (exposed) then up through the roof. This
cannot be safe.
AsktheBuilder
16 Mar 2008, 07:13
Todd,
If that vent was installed to code, it absolutely can be safe - very safe
indeed.
scott s
16 Mar 2008, 11:35
Can I replace a conventionally vented water heater with a power vented unit
(keeping the same venting through chimney)?
Thank you.
AsktheBuilder
16 Mar 2008, 12:13
Scott,
You vent the heater according to the building code *and* the written
instructions that come with the heater.
Mike Ward
02 Apr 2008, 19:55
My challenge is to re-route my water heater flue that now vents into a
brick chiminey. The chiminey is being removed and the new flue will need
to vent straight up from the water heater in the basement (through a metal
fire block/hanger)for 10 feet in the corner of the kitchen, then jog 24"
between 2/10" joists (via a variable 90 degree elbow + spacers + a 2nd
variable 90 degree elbow) and then through a second metal fireblock/hanger
up 10 more feet in an attic space and then through the roof collar, and
then at least five more feet of flue above the 13/12 roof to the vent cap.
My question: What angle should be maintained between the lower and upper
runs of vent pipe (all of which will be double wall 3" in an enclosed chase
that is lined with fire-resistant sheet rock)?
Through the wall venting is not a code option unless for a direct venting
appliance (which my heater is not). Thanks.
Mike Ward
02 Apr 2008, 20:02
I left the "hide my email" check since I was not sure if that was to omit
from my published question or not. I not, then my email is
mikew@quiktrip.com. thanks
I had a question about the allowable angle for a jog between two contiguous
runs of flue pipe.
Kevin OConnor
04 Apr 2008, 10:09
Similar - But different:
I too "orphaned" a water heater into 6" "B" vent. There's no condensate or
anything but I do have a constant lingering smell of exhaust gas. I had the
gas company in and they & their instruments say I'm OK. I have my own CO
detector in the basement - against recommendations - and it too shows no
contamination. While running, the system passes the draft "match test".The
smell IS undeniable.
I improved the situation with a windproof cap, and by increasing the
off-the-tank 3" pipe to 4" (my plumbing supply house had a 4" bonnet laying
around and gave it to me. They thought that this was weird too)
The house is a 2-story colonial in the Buffalo NY area (B-Vent is probably
20-22 feet including 40" above roof)
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
AsktheBuilder
05 Apr 2008, 10:17
Mike,
Your building inspector will gladly answer this. You are having this work
inspected, right????
Caren
16 Apr 2008, 20:29
Recently had some work done to the pipes in my apartment. For some reason
the workers dismantled the ventilation from the water heater. Is it safe to
still use hot water for a while without the ventilation? Thank you.
Michael marrocco
27 Apr 2008, 15:45
The house that i just bought has a water heater on the main floor and does
not have a exhaust what should do?
Sherman Tite
28 Apr 2008, 12:51
I find your site..and the answers to problems presented very interesting
and informing. You are doing us all a great job. Many Kudos to you!
Mr. I
12 May 2008, 19:35
The power vent on my propane hot water heater runs continuously, even if
the thermostat is not calling for more hot water. The only way it will stop
is if I pull the connector at the motor. Any ideas? Thanks
maryann
16 May 2008, 21:41
Last week I replaced my gas water heater. The existing flue had tiles that
had been damaged and were missing. There was a great deal of debris that
the chimney sweep cleaned out of the flue. The basement end appeared to
have been lined with metal that was rusted and falling apart. He felt that
he could not install a liner because the end in the basement was in a sort
of stairstep zigzag route. Is there anything that is flexible enough to be
used in this case? I'm being told that I should get a high efficiency
heater with a power vent to replace the new one I purchased 1 week ago. Is
there an alternative?
Tom
23 May 2008, 13:01
I'm buying a house in up state NY, the home inspector red flagged the
venting for the oil fired water and the oil furnace. He wrote "The water
heater flue shares the chimney with the furnace and enters the chimney
before the furnace. When sharing a flue, larger BTU appliances should enter
chimney flue before smaller BTU appliances to prevent poor draft for the
smaller unit when both are in use." It doesn't matter what the code reads
only that it is safe. Any comment?
Allan
04 Jun 2008, 18:50
Hi
I recently bought a NG fireplace B vent that has a 5 inch vent. I was
planing to vent it to the common vent that is used by the water heather and
furnace. I was told by a contractor that it can be done this way if I go
with the fireplace above the other 2. The water heather has a 3 inch vent,
the furnace a 4 inch vent and the fireplace a 5 inch vent. The main vent is
a 6 inch. This is set to be done in the basement so going to an exterior
wall is kinda hard since my understanding is that I have to maintain 18
inch from the ground.
What are my options.
I was thinking of venting into the common ventand just installing a couple
of CO2 detectors, like the contractor said that he'll do. I'm stuck and I
need help and options.
Thanks
Dan
04 Jun 2008, 22:40
My hot water heater and furnace vent through metal pipes that connect to
the chimney. I want to build either a soffit or a wall to hide the pipes.
How much space should I allow between the pipes and my construction?
Lewis Palmero
19 Jul 2008, 13:49
National Grid installed a new gas meter, pipes, safety valve, the works
outside my house. When the did a check on my gas appliances, the range and
home heating unit were good, but when they did a "spill test" on the water
heater with a match at the vent above the heater the match blew out before
it got to the vent. They thought it was a blockage in the chimney flue or
vent pipe causing a "spill". The flue is clean and clear,the vent is 4" and
the home heating unit vent is also 4", both vented into the 8"x8" flue and
both clear ". Any thoughts?
Tim McKenna
22 Jul 2008, 11:47
I am looking for some guidance concerning ventilation for our natural gas
water heater. It seems like the water heater is not ventilating properly.
It is contained 4 x 7 foot closet. the closet has a intake flu of about 6
inches in diameter and it is a standard sized water heater. Since the
weather has turned hot we have noticed exhaust accumulating in the closet.
the water heater is located on the second floor. Any advice?
Jamie
07 Aug 2008, 10:27
Direct vent vs your standard power vent.
My hot water heater is in a bathroom on the 1st floor. The door is
louvered. How do I dtermine if I need the direct vent senerio.
Is there a standard space in the room thgat is required. Just looking for a
ball park.
Steve Smith
12 Aug 2008, 19:59
Hi,
We bought a gas new water heater 3 years ago and once a year since then it
has had problems with the pilot light going out. Last year the service
repairman said the problem was that with it getting good air because of how
water heaters are now built to pass codes. It has been going out again
since last weekend and the repairman now tells my wife that we need to add
two pipes. One is a new 4" vent pipe through the roof to separate it from
the furnace vent. That one seems reasonable to me.
The second pipe is a 6-7" pipe that runs from the attic to just above the
floor next to the water heater so that the water heater will get "fresh
air". This seems ridiculous to me. Is the repairman right or is this
crazy?
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