Radiant Floor Heating

We are looking to build a 2 story cabin in northern WI and are looking to use Radiant heat. Since it will be a 2 story home with a large open vaulted area in the center, will it be necessary to run Radiant heat upstairs as well as down? or does the heat rise enough to not have to worry about it.

Nancy,
If you hire a seasoned radiant-heating contractor, he will look at all sorts of issues and make a determination. There are too many variables for me to comment.

I'm in Massachusetts, in a split-entry with forced hot air via natural gas, and central A/C. I'm about to expand my house dramatically, with an in-law suite, new master bedroom and a sunroom to connect the "old house" with these new areas, all of which will be concrete slab.

The sunroom is going to be a heating challenge. It won't get much direct sunlight except through the skylights, and it's about four steps down from the existing house. I'm thinking that electric radiant heat pads on a therostat would work well for that room, assuming I use ceramic tile flooring. True?

Also, the in-law apartment will have vaulted ceiling, which I know will cause another heating problem. The majority of the flooring will be some type of woood, but the adjacent (and open) kitchen will be tile. Could radiant heat be of some benefit there too?

Estimated cost/sq ft?

Robert,
You are making this all too hard. Why not in-slab radiant heating? Install three or more zones for maximum comfort, efficiency and control. Cost you ask? There is no way I can quote you a number. That can only be done looking at finished plans coupled with a site visit. There are many variables that affect pricing.

On an exterior concrete deck of a residence, what is the miniman mortar thickness required for a glycol closed loop 1/2 inch radiant heating system. Are their standards, or do different manufactures vary. Thanks for your help.

Gary,
I have no clue. Contact the Radiant Panel Association.

I am in the process of installing radiant heat under the tiles in my kitchen hall and bathroom. The installer has laid down the tubing and floated morter over it.
Now I can see that the tile area of the house is going to be 2" higher than the rest of the house. Is radiant heated flooring alway this high? Do you have any recommendations about smoothing out the step where the carpet and the radiant heated tile come together?

Roger,
Yes...... When installed throughout the house it is not an issue as the floors are at the same level. You will need a stone reducing threshold.

We purchased a home built in 1948 with inslab hydronic heat, and despite being 60 years old, it works as great as ever!

It's run off of a cast-iron boiler, which we run a biodiesel blend in. We'd like to swap out the boiler for something requiring less expensive maintenence (as the technicians in our area who work on boilers are commercial, and charge $80/hr minimum) and calibration - but all in all the costs are still cheaper than our neighbors - and the heat is MUCH more comfortable and dust free.

Hi Tim:
Are you familiar with a low voltage electric radiant element called Zmesh? In areas like Robert on 02/11 would build, it would be much more efficient and less costly to install than a Hydronic system.

There's no floor buildup and it can be stapled or nailed through anywhere without a problem. Solid hardwoods can be installed directly over the top too because it's a slow growth, even heat that won't get any hotter than 85*.

Russell,
I have seen many of the electric systems.

I am preparing to build a new home that I will often leave for the 4 coldest months of the year (temps can be as low as -20F). I am concerned about putting in a radiant floor and leaving the house empty with temps that low. What is your opinion on that type of arrangement?

Stephen,
You need to read my past column about Winterizing a Home. Then you need to check with the manufacturer of the heating system to see what they say about winterizing their product.

I'm about to add a sunroom to the back of my NJ home which get a lot of natural light in the afternoon. In order to make the room usable year round I'm considering putting an electric radiant heating system in the floor (which will be above a crawl space). With this as the only means of heating the space (which will be separated from the rest of the house) is there anything I need to be concerned with in using this type of system? Foe example is there any chance of cracking tiles when we turn on the heater during the winter months?

Tim, Would you recommend using a tankless water heater instead of a boiler? I was planning to use the same heat source for the radiant floor and to provide hot water for the house.

John,
The tiles should not crack.

Dave,
Absolutely No. You must consult three different radiant-heat contractors and get their recommendations.

Tim,
I'm having a kitchen renovated and would like radiant heating tubes to be installed in the mud below the finished tile. I won't have the radiant heat hooked up to a furnance until I convert my existing steam boiler to water. How long can the hydrolic tubes lay dorminant? I don't intend to do a complete conversion for about 3 years.
Thanks!
Mary

Tim,
I am interested in an old Victorian home with 10’ ceilings in upstate NY. It has been recently updated with zoned radiant heat, both upstairs and down. It has ceiling fans and the original hardwood floors are in decent shape. Can I expect a comfortable winter without breaking the bank, or going to another type of heating source?

looking for info on open radiant systems and the legal issues in massachusetts. Radiant tech in VT and a designer in MI have profound infoo on the acceptance by national codes and cdc but many postings are against these systems. any help?

We Recently had radiant heat and ceramic tile installed in our kitchen. A day after the tile was installed, many of the tiles started sinking and the whole kitchen floor became un-level, in some areas it dips down 3/8", and most of the tile corners stick up. Our contractor said this is normal when you install radiant heaters. Does installing radiant heat really mean you sacrifice a level floor?

Hi
I have a 1360 sq ft garage with hydronic floor heat. It has 11ft sidwalls with a 18x10 and a 10x10 overhead doors.Two (2) 3x4 windows in one wall. 6" sidwalls with bat insulation, 10" blown in celluose in the ceiling. Overhead doors are solid vinyl insulated doors. I am heating the water right now with a 50 gal natural gas water heater. It works fine but I want to do it more efficiently. I live in the upper midwest. Winters can get qwite cold. I like to keep it 60 degrees. What size boiler would you reccommend?
Thanks