Summary: Mold growth is a major problem,
which thousands of people are experiencing due to a number of factors. Mold
takes root partly due to poor workmanship, a limited understanding of the
dynamics of water and water vapor movement, and lack of adequate training for
builders. Toxic mold concerns rarely happened in old homes. Stopping black mold
and other mold types before they begin can be done, but your builder must be
well versed in how to keep water at bay with modern building materials and
proper construction.
To post a comment you can return to the full article page
Comments
travis
29 Jan 2008, 16:35
we just put a roof on the house this summer and new siding as well. The
upstairs room is unheated and we did not insulate or cover the walls (no
sheetrock or wall panel of any type). We are in Portland, Oregon and this
has been an exceptionally wet winter and cold as well. Moisture has been
collecting on the tips of the roofing nails that protrude through the osb
decking and now we are seeing a large presence of mold on the under
surface. Is this understandable in light of not heating or do we need to
ventilate better or close the remaining air gaps that exist at joints of
wall to roof sheathing? if we insulate are we merely going to trap the
future condensation in the remaining space or will that solve the
condensation problem? Thank you so much for your help and your time!
AsktheBuilder
29 Jan 2008, 18:04
Travis,
Read ALL of my Condensation and Ventilation columns as fast as you can.
Cherie
16 Jun 2008, 07:22
Thanks for your web site which has been very helpful. Here's my question:
We are building a new home in Florida. It is not under roof yet and we are
in the rainy season. What do we need to do to prevent mold until the house
is sealed? Again, thanks.
Dennis
18 Jul 2008, 22:40
Dear Tim,
My problem differs enough from most to require this email. I have built a
port-e-chohere/deck using 2x10 beams (3 2x10 per beam). The builder did
not use treated wood, but explained that quality paint would be as
effective. Nevertheless, after mold ate the supports beams in three year I
had to rebuild the supports. The actual decking material is in great
condition, but the substructure supporting woods seem to have beem eaten.
In some cases it was as if the cellulose had been eaten out of the wood.
It was not gree, black, or damp... just brittle.
Three months after replacing the beams I noticed the nold growing again.
Some is black and grows outward and react like a pollen on a flower, easily
blowing into the envirobnment when touched. Another type grows from
between two pieces of wood and llie a mushroom. I have used a product from
Home Depot and that seemed to work for a month or two, but the mold
returns. Oh yes, by the way, the home is on the Brazos river outside of
Houston, so it almost always damp.
I suppose this is going to be a an ongoing concern that will require
monthly treating of color/water 50/50 and then a mildecide. The problem
is, the mildecides seem awfully expensive to have to use every month (the
porte-chchrere sunstructure is about 26 x 20).
This is an exterior problem, so no health issue (unless the supports give
way and people get hurt!).
By the way, tha e paint was Behr and I added extra over-the-counter mildew
protection. Doesn;t seem to have helped much. The last place I cleaned
the black powery milder from the paint came right off (only the pressure
from a standard sprayer from a garden hose)
I value your suggestions.
Regards,
Dennis
Phyllis
27 Jul 2008, 06:50
I have a damp basement. The water is entering up through the floor. The
walls are dry except where water has wicked up from the floor. Even when no
water is visible, the worn paint patches effloresce.
We have a very high water table here.
I had a foundation company visit and look over the basement. He said my
only problem was the size and depth of my sump pump - that the pump allowed
water to rise until it touched the underside of the floor slab and then the
water soaks up through the concrete.
A new sump dug, and a new pump with back up will cost me abou $2500.00. I
will gladly pay this if it will fix the problem. It almost seems too
simple. What is your take on this?
(There is no visible water around window wells or on walls. I have cleaned
and repaired gutters, raised the ground level near the foundation to ensure
a dro in grade away from the house, dug a swale to carry water from between
houses into my front ditch)
Thanks
Phyllis
Amelia
23 Aug 2008, 15:14
We have mold on the drywall in our basement. We are going to remove the
wall board completely but I would like to kill the mold before we start
tearing it out. Would spraying it with bleach do the trick?
Sam White
26 Aug 2008, 08:36
I have mold growing behind a brick veneer. I have moisture barrior paper
and weep holes. It is on a wall that had several appentics working on it, i
amwondering if the cause couldcome form to much mortar being dropped behind
the wall.What are your thoughts?
To post a comment you can return to the full article page