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Paint or Stain the Exterior

By
©1993-2012 Tim Carter

        
Summary: Paint or stain - which is better? For minimal home maintenance, either house paint or wood stain could be the choice. There are several things to consider in house painting. The good news is there are new exterior paints and stains that will last many years if applied correctly.

DEAR TIM: The cedar siding on our modified A-frame house needs to be re-stained. But a neighbor suggests that we paint the house. Can you paint a house that has been stained? Is it a good idea? To add further confusion, a different neighbor says that painting the house will stop the wood from expanding and contracting leading to possible structural damage. Who is right? What would you do? Robert L., Lake Geneva, WI

DEAR ROBERT: Neither of your neighbors is 100 percent correct. Neighbor number two's advice is the least accurate in my opinion. Even if painted, the wood siding will absolutely continue to expand and contract. In fact, that is why paint often peels and flakes from wood siding. The seasonal expansion and contraction of the wood breaks the bond between the wood siding and the paint.

What's more, there is no connection between structural failure and expanding and contracting wood siding. The wood siding on a house is not supposed to act as a structural component. It is simply a skin that protects the structure from the elements. Keeping the skin of your home in good condition is necessary and you must maintain it with one of the two coatings you are contemplating.

Even the best paint put on by the best painter will fail. But semi-transparent water repellents also wear out. Photo credit: Tim Carter
Even the best paint put on by the best painter will fail. But semi-transparent water repellents also wear out. Photo credit: Tim Carter
A high quality paint or an epoxy fortified synthetic resin water repellent applied to the cedar siding will stop water from entering the wood. Minimizing or eliminating water penetration into the siding should be your primary goal. The aesthetic look of your home should be secondary. A house that has strong curb appeal does add value, but beware of making this your primary objective.

Water repellents and paint are coatings. A paint is considered a film that lays on top of the surface. Many water repellents soak into the wood and do not leave a film at the surface. Some water repellents do create a film or skin at the surface. The problem with films or surface coatings is that they eventually peel. When this happens, you are forced to scrape or strip the loose and peeling film off before you can apply a second coat. For this single reason, I try to avoid coatings that are films.

Penetrating water repellents do not peel, but they wear out. When it is time to re-coat the wood, you simply do not have to scrape the wood. This can save a tremendous amount of work. No matter which coating you choose to use, you will still be faced with lots of other work. You will still have to carefully and thoroughly wash the siding with soap and water and then do what is necessary to apply the coating of your choice. Scraping or stripping loose films is simply an additional step to a process.

If you really want to be confused, just look at my home. It is redwood siding and painted! My wife and I love Victorian style architecture and I built a Queen Anne Victorian home. These painted ladies just don't seem to look good with semi-transparent stains, so I painted the home for Kathy. Did I know I was going down the high-maintenance highway when I popped the lid off the first can of primer? You bet I did. But I also decided to use a paint that contained a blend of water-based urethane and acrylic resins. These are very sticky and I am confident it will be many years before my paint film peels or blisters.

Keep in mind that painting your A-frame home may significantly change its appearance. Certain architecture styles lend themselves to a certain look. When I think log cabin and A-frame, I see in my mind a rustic wood look. If you say two-story colonial or Victorian, the image in my brain is paint. If you paint your A-frame, will it lower it value to a potential buyer? That may not concern you, but it could be a factor in another person's mind.

If you do decide to paint instead of applying the epoxy fortified synthetic resin water repellent, be sure you hand wash the siding as you would your car. Avoid pressure washing this delicate wood. You need the wood to be perfectly clean. Read the label of the finish paint and follow the directions to the letter with respect to any primer they say you must use. Never forget that paint is simply a glue with color added to it. Both the primer and the finish paint must be the best glues and they stick best to clean surfaces.

Semi-transparent water repellents for wood come in many different formulations. Unfortunately a majority of them are made from natural oils that are food for mildew and algae. The best water repellents are ones that are made from synthetic resins. Do a search on the Internet for epoxy water repellents and you will quickly discover good ones.

The urethane - acrylic resin house paints are also readily available. They are sold at national chain paint stores as well as several major retail stores that have tool and paint departments. Look at the label and when you see the words "urethane and acrylic", you know you have a winner. Be sure to pay strict attention to the temperature ranges when the paint can be applied. Do not stray outside of these ranges.

The best weather to apply paint is when the temperature is near 70F and the winds are calm. An overcast day is much better than a sunny day. It is best for paint to dry slowly.



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Comments:

Welcome! I, Tim Carter, don't answer questions here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area, perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me, there is an option there for you.
Alison Law
04 Feb 2008, 10:03
Dear Tim,

Our HOA is faced with painting about a mile of 4-board "pasture" fence. Newly painted fences in the area are turning up black instead of white, and I see asphalt fence paint in the farm stores. It appears to be much cheaper than what we were going to use.

Is it as durable?

It sounds toxic. Given the state of the treated wood industry, am I adding more toxins to the soil and the painters?

Thank you
Dianne
01 Jun 2008, 09:34
Is there a way to determine if paint or stain has been applied to a surface? Can you use paint over stain, stain over paint? Thanks for any help.
Leona Carlough
17 Jul 2008, 09:51
I own a house that is over 100 years old. The problem is the window sills,
the wood is pitted. I have used wood
hardner, wood filler, prime & paint.
Some one stated that I should have primed, before I put in the woodfiller,
is this corret? I don't want to redo the window sills every couple of years.
Frederick
02 Jan 2009, 14:09
Tim,give me an approximate cost to have a fronch prch built. Say,10feet square with an overhang or pitched roof.
rita
03 Jun 2009, 15:41
How do you know what paint was useed as well as a primer??
anne miller
18 Jul 2009, 09:09
Tim -
We are in the process of re-doing our exterior wood sided/log accented house which has been coated for 5 years with a natural look stain (log look). The entire house has been pressure washed. Preferring to darken the house siding, we've tested semi-transparent stains and are into a problem: the stain remains very shiny where there is still 'product' on the wood and is flat otherwise. We also have a major issue with poorly installed chinking which has to be replaced. To prolong the life of the exterior and its maintenance would we be better off looking into either an opaque or solid color stain to both darken and help maintain? thank you so very much for your help!
elaine
20 Jul 2009, 01:12
Hi Tim,
My husband and I would like to side our house in a Cape Code style with untreated clapboard and allow the cedar to gray with the weather. We like the natural look and also the idea of no maintenance. I've been reading various concerns and am looking for your comments. I read that if your house was on the ocean the salt spray treats the wood and there is no concern of rot. However, we are on a lake and don't have the salt spray. I also heard there is a bleach product that you can apply that helps protect and produces a more uniform graying... however it sounds as though you need to repaint this bleach on every 3-5 years...If you have any thoughts we would appreciate your comments.
Thank you very much,
Elaine
Rich
20 Jul 2009, 10:09
Perhaps i missed it, but the question "Can you paint over stain?" was not answered. In addition, what would you recommend for exterior wood siding, oil or water based paint?
James Glover
21 Jul 2009, 06:23
My cedar home is in need of a new stain/paint. I am having some interior work done and 1 contractor told me it was stain and another said it was paint. There is no flaking or pealing. I have a little out building that has the same treatment that I washed and the paint/stain washed completely off in sections leaving bare wood. How can I tell if this old coat is paint or stain? The home was built in 1978 and the treatment is extremely old and worn.

Jane
03 May 2010, 20:49
Pain vs Stain. I won a 100 yr old white farmhouse, my front porch is stained red & the combo is most . . . . unappealing. It's time to paint/stain the porch & I'd like it to be white. I dislike painting and am looking for the most maintenance free do it yourelf & w/you mom option. Paint or stain, that is my question.

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