To post a comment you can return to the full article page
Comments
Rose
16 Jan 2008, 22:58
This is great info but I need actual plans on how to build a pocket door
frame. Free plans are good if anybody knows where to find them. I'm a
single mom who bought a real, and I mean real fixerupper. I can use tools
like any backyard home reno guy so I plan on doinglot of my renos myself.
My bathroom roof came down not too long ago and I was up there with my son
putting on a new roof....now no leaks!!So c'mon you guys help me out here
with some plans.
PS I also can clean a fish better than most fishing men!!
AsktheBuilder
18 Jan 2008, 06:14
Rose,
I am impressed by your skills. But the question is, do you have better
map-folding skills than me? :->
Do you have a smelter and forge in your backyard? Do you have any idea how
hard it is to make the track for the door?
You will spend more on materials trying to cobble a frame together than you
would spend buying two high-quality factory-made frames that I mention in
my other pocket-door columns. This is one time it pays NOT to do it
yourself.
Andrew
26 Jan 2008, 08:29
Well, actually they make a good residential pocket door, chase and all,
just add door. The rule of thumb is 2xdoor size+ 1 3/4". Example.. 36"
door, 75 3/4 opening in clear. And header is put at 85 1/2".
Hope it helps.
Andrew
26 Jan 2008, 08:32
Sorry, to correct myself from above that example is 36" door = 73 3/4
opening.. 24"door = 49 3/4" opening.
All with headers, bottom at 85 1/2".
Chuck
02 Feb 2008, 01:41
Along the lines of Rose's question...How hefty does the header need to be?
I want to install double pocket doors on a new wall i am building to
enclose my living room. So i will have an opening of about 132" on a
non-load bearing wall. What should i use for the header?
AsktheBuilder
02 Feb 2008, 07:01
Chuck,
I can't tell you. I would need to know what part that wall plays in the
structural game. You need to bring in an architect, engineer or a seasoned
remodeler who can assist you. Sorry, I can't see all I need to see from my
office.
Jill
04 Feb 2008, 11:57
Chuck,
I'm a residential designer...
If the wall you plan to put an opening in is not load bearing, you don't
need a "header" per say. Headers are to carry the load from above. You
would probably only need two 2x4s over the opening to hold the weight of
the door when it slides.
Mike
24 Feb 2008, 20:05
Is it possible to put some kind of a door at the bottom of the stairway in
the basement, which is now just open at the bottom. A pocket door would not
work as there is no room for the door to slide on either side. Its open
from the floor to the ceiling, and of course there is no door frame. I'm
just wondering how to keep the noise in the basement as we have a very open
floor plan upstairs. Can you help????
Mike
AsktheBuilder
01 Mar 2008, 15:34
Mike,
You need to go read ALL of the columns I have written about Soundproofing
and Noise Control.
david
03 Mar 2008, 11:29
what is the difference between the pocket door guides that are plastic and
come with the doors.Or is the metal ones that are placed on the floor
better to guide the doors.
AsktheBuilder
08 Mar 2008, 12:45
David,
I have had good success with both types.
Lisa
16 Apr 2008, 09:19
I have seen pocket doors added to the outside of an interior wall in a
hotel to separate the bathroom from the sleeping area. It was very cool
looking and acheived the same extra floor space as an inside the wall
pocket door without the work to add to an existing wall/door opening.
Any idea where you can get that type of door hardware?
J. Valentine
16 Apr 2008, 15:54
Don't try to build a frame....Here is the best way to do it. I'm in the
middle of remodeling my bedroom and I have included 4 pocket doors for the
4 large closets. He's right....the space they'll save, not having to swing
open, in invaluable. If you want to make this job simple purchase pocket
door frames from your hardware store. I bought 4 of them at Home Depot.
They include the whole thing, everything you need...the space for them to
sink back into, the metal runners, the door slides, etc. The cost was
great, at $64 each. Of course, you'll need a header that runs the entire
length of the opening, not just over the 'closed door' section. It was
very easy for new construction, but I'm not sure about tearing a wall down
for old construction. For that, I would recommend swinging doors. I have
these on spaces like the walk-in-closets adjacent to the master bath. It
just uses your old door jamb, and all you need to buy is a regular door
(without any hardware cut-out holes) and swinging hinges made for swinging
doors. This door is great if you usually want to shut the door because it
swings back and forth and rests shut, like a saloon door.
Sheri
01 Jul 2008, 08:10
We have a 9 foot door opening with an arch at the top. The walls are 6"
thick and the corners are rounded. We would like to install a pocket door
in this opening. However, we aren't quite sure how to finish the door
jambs and would like some type of finish that would not involve adding
moulding around the door frame. Any suggestions?
sharon
14 Jul 2008, 18:00
I would like to replace an existing walk-in closet door in my master bath
with a pocket door. There are no electrical outlets or plumbing on the wall
which would be used for the 'pocket', so would this be a lot more involved
that just removing the current door jamb and clearing out the wall, then
adding the pocket door system?
karen&carl
15 Jul 2008, 19:24
everyone mentions the width and height of the rough opening for a pocket
door, but no one has mentioned depth. do pocket doors fit with in standard
2x4 walls?
David Silverman
26 Jul 2008, 23:20
I live in a fifty year old home with pocket doors between several rooms.
Thes rooms all attach to one room to which I have recently redone the
floors with wooden floors. As a result the doors need to be shortened and I
attacked the doors to remove them. I am currently stuck and cannot remove
them from their tracks.Ther must be an easier way since someone years ago
had to have a way to hang them. Any ideas will be appreciated.
David
charlie
04 Aug 2008, 20:10
I want a pocket door between a dining room and a library. The library has
floor to ceiling bookshelves. Do I need to remove them? Can I remove the
wallboard and the studs from the dining room and leave the backing (plywood
or wallboard) to the bookshelves?
Charles
16 Aug 2008, 10:54
How wide is the raw unfinished cut out for a 30 inch pocket door? I have
lost my instructions
Liz
17 Aug 2008, 23:07
I was wondering what might be a reasonable price to install a door in a
bedroom closet. I just got a quote for $975.
Stanley Paxton
20 Aug 2008, 19:53
We own a mobil home in Florida and I am thinking I would like to install
pocket doors to increase wall/floor space. Our mobil home is a double-wide.
All the doors I would like to install pocket doors are on either "side" of
the mobil home. Are there plans available for such an installation? I am
fairly handy with tools. Please let me know.
To post a comment you can return to the full article page