Heating Design

By
©1993-2012 Tim Carter

        
Summary: Heating design is very important. If your heating ductwork or forced air system isn't built properly for good air flow, you'll end up with a cold room. Heating systems can sometimes become blocked by debris or a damper control could be blocking the air. Another possibility is a poorly designed duct system.

DEAR TIM: We moved into our new home 3 months ago and now that it is cold we have discovered our daughter's bedroom is freezing! The house has vinyl siding, her room has a large double window, faces north and is farthest from the furnace. The builder tells us that is the problem. I have shut down the vents in the basement, laundry room and two other little-used rooms. But my daughter's room is still cold. What is wrong? Surely the builder can't be right. Anne K., Mason, OH

DEAR ANNE: Yes, and there was a full solar eclipse last week as well. Jeeesh! The phoney answers and excuses some builders offer up to cover mistakes seem to be as plentiful as grains of sand on a beach. The following wager may surprise you: Do you think I could keep that bedroom at a nearly constant 72 F even if your daughter's room had floor to ceiling single pane glass with no insulation in the ceiling? Don't bet against me, because you will lose. I can heat or cool an non-insulated house and you will be a snug as a bug in a rug. You'll be a poor bug, but a comfortable one!

This second floor room has five outside walls! It required two large supply ducts to satisfy its heat loss.
This second floor room has five outside walls! It required two large supply ducts to satisfy its heat loss.
Your builder is ultimately responsible for this mistake since he entered into a contract with you to supply a livable home. Undoubtedly he will redirect the blame to the heating and cooling contractor who installed the ductwork and the heating and cooling system components. But never forget that it was the builder's job to make sure all heating and cooling components were correctly sized and installed.

The cold temperatures in your daughter's room can be caused by any number of things. More than one thing can be wrong. The problem could be as simple as a damper control that is blocking air flow within the branch duct(s) leading to the room or the duct(s) could be blocked with construction debris.

Well-designed forced air systems almost always have a simple damper control in each branch line as they leave the main trunk lines. These damper controls allow the installer to fine tune the air flow to each room of the house. The control levers you have at the actual grill in each room are not intended for the purpose of balancing air flow.

The more likely scenario is that the duct system is poorly designed and static pressure within the ducts is not equal throughout the system. Ductwork systems in houses need to mimic our bodies vascular system. Blood vessels get smaller and smaller the farther away they get from our hearts. Doing this allows the blood pressure in our finger tips to be just about the same as the blood pressure in your neck. If you can see the actual main trunk line as it leaves the furnace, it should get smaller in cross section the farther it gets from the furnace.

As the forced air from the furnace starts to head down the smaller branch lines, it takes energy with it. The remaining air in the trunk line still needs to travel to the rooms downstream. If the main trunk line stays the same size, the remaining energy in the moving air simply can't push all of the extra air down the main trunk line.

Another possibility is the main ducts are sized properly but the installer failed to put the right size branch line into the room. Each room of a house has its own heat gain or heat loss. As such, the furnace needs to supply a different amount of heated or cooled air to each room so that all rooms are the same temperature.

It is also possible that there are not enough return air ducts in each room. The supply ducts should be located under windows on outside walls. On the opposite side of the room, a return air intake duct should be up seven feet high on the wall. As the furnace operates it pushes air out of the supply ducts and pulls air across the room into the return air ducts. This is where the air begins its journey back to the furnace where it once again gets reheated.

If you determine that the fix is not easy, don't let the builder tell you to just solve the problem with a space heater. These devices do work and work well. The supplementary heater will not do you any good this summer when it is 98 F outdoors. I guess when you call to complain that it is too hot in that room, the builder will tell you to hang a window air conditioner out of one of those large windows.

Static pressure is very important. Professional heating, ventilating and air-conditioning (HVAC) contractors know how to supply enough air to each room so that every room in the house is within a degree or two of what your thermostat reads.

The method used to determine duct sizing is not magic. A professional HVAC contractor performs a heat gain and heat loss calculation using the blueprints. These calculations are done for each room and the final calculations show exactly how many cubic feet per minute (CPM) of air must be supplied to each room. A second calculation converts this CPM quantity to a specific branch duct size. The calculations are so precise they tell the contractor the exact size duct for every part of the system!



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Comments:

Welcome! I, Tim Carter, don't answer questions here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area, perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me, there is an option there for you.
wendy
29 Jan 2008, 13:44
I'm in the market for a new home. Currently, in my house, I have the same problem with uneven distributed heating. Some rooms are freezing and some are like an oven.

How do I ensure that the new houses I'm looking at have a good even heating distribution? What questions do I ask the builder and subcontractors?

Thanks
AsktheBuilder
29 Jan 2008, 13:59
Wendy,
Great question! The questions you want to ask are in *many* of my past Heating and Air Conditioning columns. I suggest you read many, if not all, of them. Wait until you see what you will discover!
Andrew
27 Feb 2008, 18:57
heat gain and heat loss calculation

Are the vent resistors for adjusting the flow and temperature in each room?

If Anne closes vents in the hot rooms and opens in the cold rooms, will it redirect the heat? It need time to see the effect.
Andrew
27 Feb 2008, 19:53
Dear Tim,
Is it any formula to estimate efficiency of house heating that could be done easy?

Any Energy-Efficient house will lose heat. Basically, size (sq. ft.) of the house and number of the windows can give some estimate how much house lose heat with certain temperature gradient inside and outside. Do you know any chart with such info?

The Gas bill can provide with how much energy used (Therms?) and what was the weather (Degree Day).

If it is a big gap between – look for the problem.

For three years (2005-2008) I have 0.34 Therms/Degree Day in winter.
Last two months, when I did not close the chimney tight, it came up to 0.45 and I started to look for the problem.

I just do not know what should I expect with total living area of 3944 sq.ft. + f. basement
Outside perimeter: 33.9 x 58.5 = 1983.15
1983.15 x2floors = 3966.3 – nonliving area
Could it be lower than 0.34 Therms/Degree Day? Is it any improvement that could be done?

Basically, what I am looking for is some statistics on how big the house and what people pay for in certain States. I understand that is very ruff estimation but I will be Ok knowing that 60-80% Americans pays the same money for similar house heating.
And if someone in Illinois pays twice-lower bill, I would like to know what is wrong with mine.

Thanks.
Andrew.
Orland Park, IL
Ray
01 Mar 2008, 05:25
I am having the same problem with my new house. The room is at the farthest distance from the furnace. The HVAC guys came out yesterday and added a third duct to add more air into the room. hey were originally adding a blower but opted for the 3rd duct. They told my wife to leave the furnace fan ON at all times to keep the air circulating. The house has zoned heating for upstairs and downstairs. It seems to me that this is a waste of energy . They also pulled out the higher efficincy filter i got and replaced it with a floss type filter that did'nt really fit the opening(16x25). I got home and put back the filter. Can you please tell me what you think. I just don't think that leaving that blower on all the time is the fix for the problem. and certainly not economical.
Thanks
Laporte, IN
AsktheBuilder
02 Mar 2008, 14:26
Andrew,
The answer is No. There is no silver bullet. Your bills are high for any number of reasons.
AsktheBuilder
07 Mar 2008, 20:43
Ray,
I pretty much tell you in the column what has to happen. The duct design is *wrong*.
art
25 Mar 2008, 14:50
In many instances even when the ductwork has been designed properly if it has not been sealed air tight the air is lost through the joints in the ductwork and the pressure is not high enough to deliver the air to the furthest room iin the house. Also if a room has a higher btu per sqft loss then the rest of the house it will be colder in the winter and warmer in the summer. In most houses the thermostat is located in an interior location. this location is the quickest to respond the the heating and the slowest to respond to the outside air temps. Mechanical system design in larger homes (above 3000) square feet will normally need some form of zoning. Many areas need more heat then others and just increasing the airflow typically wont solve the problem.
Karen
22 Apr 2008, 15:10
We have the same problem, which has existed continually since building our 4-year old, Energy Star certified home. The first floor heats/cools just fine, the second floor is up to 10 degrees colder in the wintertime and vice versa in the summer.

I talked to our builder, and he offered to come do a heat gain/loss analysis for us on the next extremely cold day. He suspects that the duct in the dining room was not sized properly and that's where a sensor is located or something to that effect. Meaning that the heat/AC is kicking off prematurely and not completely cooling/heating the second floor of our home. Now we just have to wait for a cold day...
Erik Wood
22 Dec 2008, 10:29
Hi, Tim.

I live in a cape with two bedrooms and a bath upstairs. My daughter's room is always cold, and our room is always hot.

The North side of the house has a dormer across the length of the roof. My baby daughter's room has a supply duct on the baseboard of this outside wall, while the our bedroom has a supply duct on a pocket wall on the south side. There is a crawlspace behind this wall where the roof continues to slant downward.

One problem I have already identified is that the return for the entire house is in the hallway between the bedrooms at the top of the stairs.

I'm thinking that one solution (after insulating the crawlspace, windows, outlets and swtiches) would be to extend the duct in the crawlspace on the south side to her room as well. Should I also look into adding separate returns for both bedrooms as well? Any other suggestions you might have would be appreciated.

Thanks
Erik

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