Brick House
DEAR TIM: I live in the Midwest and my daughter lives on the coast of the Florida panhandle. Her house is constructed with concrete block and it leaked like a sieve during last year's hurricanes. I am getting ready to build a new home and wonder what is the best type of exterior skin I can use to resist water, hail, and wind damage. Brick seems like a good idea, but the leaks my daughter experienced make me a little uncomfortable about building with masonry. What would you do? Ben P., Lafayette, IN
DEAR BEN: Millions of people that live east of the Rocky Mountains live in areas where wind storms and hurricanes can cause all sorts of problems. Water intrusion is but one of these problems. Hail damage, impact damage from blowing debris and house facades that are peeled back like an onion are some other common problems created by different weather events.
Hurricanes are in the news now, but each year hundreds if not thousands of thunderstorms and vigorous northeasters affect just about every state of the USA east of the Continental Divide. The wind in these storms can blast all sorts of objects against the walls causing serious damage. I have seen photos of hail-damaged houses that moments before the storm had beautiful vinyl siding. Ten minutes later, the house looks like it was blasted with a giant shotgun, as there are hundreds of holes in the siding caused by the wind-driven hail.
The wind also creates havoc with the rain in these storms. Water is fairly heavy, even a drop of water. Thousands and thousands of drops of water traveling at 35, 60 or 100+ miles per hour crash into the sides of homes. Each successive drop of water drives the water from the previous drop that much farther into the wall. The process is not much different from that of a hammer driving a nail into a piece of wood.
This wind-driven water can absolutely pass through brick veneer walls and concrete block structures that are only one brick or block wide. The water commonly passes through the wall at the contact point between the mortar and the brick or block. The mortar joints may look as if they are waterproof, but believe me, water can and does pass through these joints, especially vertical mortar joints.
Older solid masonry buildings are pretty much immune to this water infiltration because the masonry walls are thicker and the weight of the structure bears down on the masonry. This extra thickness and weight minimizes the amount of water infiltration.
Brick veneer homes built today need special care and attention in order to keep the water from causing problems in the wall cavity behind the brick skin. Special flashings need to be installed at any and all horizontal breaks in the masonry. This includes, but is not limited to, the bottom course of brick where the brick rests on the foundation, above and below windows and doors, above brick that stops at one story and another exterior material continues up the building and chimney crowns.
The water that is captured by the flashings is then redirected to the exterior of the structure through regularly spaced weep holes that are wide open and free from clogs caused by excess mortar.
If you live in an area that has frequent windstorms, you might want to ask your insurance agent if a brick home has a lower annual premium. Insurance companies operate much like casinos. They bet each day that your home will not sustain damage and you are on the other side of the bet expecting payment when the damage happens.
Since the insurance companies employ very smart mathematicians who analyze data, they know brick homes fair well in most storms. These insurance company employees know that brick lowers the risk on the part of the insurance company, so they can pass that lowered risk on to you in the form of lowered annual premiums.
It might be a very smart thing to actually meet with a seasoned insurance agent and have this person advise you on other aspects of your new home. You might find it makes great financial sense to install things like fire sprinklers, wireless smoke detectors and other things that significantly lower the overall risk to the insurance company. The agent should be able to show you how each feature you add lowers your overall insurance cost.
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JR 19 May 2008, 13:13
We currently live in a 120 year old house in St.Louis. We are experiencing
water damage on our interior plaster on the West wall. The top half of
this wall, where most of the damage is, was tuckpointed two years ago. In
addition, we had our roof (only 2 1/2 years old) re-sealed and had our
parapet and coping tiles re-tucked. We thought our problem was fixed, so
we replastered and then a big rain storm came a week later and stained all
the new plaster in the same spots. I'm sure it will be bubbling up with
the efflovesence soon and the plaster patchwork will be ruined again. I'm
believing we have an old brick problem, not a tuck pointing problem. The
only thing I can't seem to figure out is that this house is three layers of
brick thick along with a skimcoating underneath the plaster. How am I
experiencing all this damage from water just contacting with the exterior
brick? Is this a situation where I should seal or is it time to rebuild
the entire wall? Is it ever beneficial to stucko over all the brick on one
side of the wall to eliminate this problem?
Saprena 11 Sep 2008, 09:09
Hello Tim,
I live in Galveston, Texas in a two story brick home. My windows are set in the brick of the home, so securing the windows with plywood is hard (if not impossible to my knowledge) to do. Can you give me any suggestions. We are in the face of Hurricane Ike at this second so any help is greatly appreciated.
AsktheBuilder 11 Sep 2008, 09:41
Saprena,
You can carefully install plywood over the brick openings. Allow the plywood to lap over 4 inches on each side of the opening. Drill into the mortar joints 1.5 inches in from the edge of the plywood. Install plastic anchors in the mortar joints. Screw the plywood into the anchors. Label each piece of plywood so it can be mated up to the anchors the next time the wind blows. You can reuse the plywood for years.
david groome 18 Jul 2009, 06:15
hi there. i am writing from south africa. we have a thatch roofed home
which is double storey. it is however very cold in winter but often colder
than outside and whilst we have a fireplace we struggle to keep it properly
warm.(yes it does get cold here in winter).the structure is built with
cement blocks plastered over. as the blocks are not solid as bricks are as
they have cavities. is it at all possible that cold air can is able to
permeate the blocks making the inside colder? i know it will be aggravatedd
by the thatch roof which acts as an 'insulator' and retains the cold air
once inside but is there anything i can do to reduce the problem maybe by
applying a sealant on the outer walls to minimise or prevent cold air
seepage?(if it is the likely problem?).
Cheryl Finch 09 Sep 2009, 16:16
Hello Tim;
I live in Palm Beach County, FL, we bouhgt our home in 2002, it was built in 1961 and is a brick house. I recently had to have a new inspection to re-write my wind policy. Both of the inspectors they sent told me that they have no way to rate a brick house, that they don't build real brick houses in Florida, that I actually have a frame house and that is how they have to report it. I now have to pay an additional $700 per year just for the wind portion of my policy, yikes!! I don't know where to turn next, my insurance company only tells me that they are the professionals and have to take what they report, no one from the agency has seen the house. I was wondering if you knew if I was fighting a losing battle or, if I'm not, who I could contact for assistance. Thank you.
Ed 12 Oct 2009, 15:16
I am looking into buying a house that was just built this year and it is a
3/4 brick house. The mortar between some of the bricks are cracking and
little pieces of mortar is coming out. Is this going to be a problem now
and in the future? Thank you for any advice you can share with me.
Mark 29 Oct 2009, 08:37
I have a 60 yr old brick veneer house. I want to maintain it properly, Do
you recommend brick sealant?
Bob 23 Jan 2010, 19:04
Hello Tim,
Could you tell me if up to softball size hail would be able to crack or put holes in my stucco siding? My insurance company says no way. Any information is greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Kate 08 Mar 2010, 06:33
Getting off thier subjects. I have a brick home built in the 1800's. I
would like to know why the thier are cables running from wall to in the
attic. I wish to lay a floor down and make it a play area for my son. But
there's the problem of the cables? Are they serving a purpose now? Can I
get some to relocate them in the floor? Since my house has been standing
for over 150 years should I relocate?
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