Front Porch Wood Flooring

Please help. Porch is framed and joists are sheeted with 3/4" treated ply. I want to install 3/4" t&g SYP either painted or stained. Question- should I apply felt or something between the layers? and paint/stain all sides of the t&g? thanks, Jim

James,
You need to consult with an architect in your area who can decipher what you are trying to accomplish.

I also need to replace my front porch flooring. It was wood/tongue and groove, however, I am seriously considering composite tongue and groove material if I can afford it. How much more can I expect to pay on materials alone (3x more than wood)? I have someone coming out next week to give me an estimate on doing the job.
Thank you.

I have the same problem as Tim with my porch but fortunately I only need to replace one board.

The insructions you gave for removing the old boards sound easy, but how do I install the new tongue and groove board without destroying the boards on either side? Unlike the floor pictured above my floor has a trim piece running perpendicular to the floor boards. Is there any way to install a new board without removing this trim piece?

Thank you

Michelle,
Just do what I say in this column. It is the same for your situation.

I need to replace my tongue and groove front porch flooring. I intend to have the floor stained and sealed as opposed to painted. The porch is covered, but the flooring must withstand moisture as I live in San Pedro, CA which is a port town on the water. I want to use wood, not laminate. What do you suggest as the best wood for my purposes?

I am replacing my font porch on an old farm house. The contracter asked which way I would like the boards to run; side to side or from the house out to the street. I am wondering if I should leave it the way it was, from the house out because there may have been a reason why it was done that way.
Perhaps something to do with water run-off? I would appreciate an answer.

I need to protect the edge of my tongue and groove veranda. It was replaced without protection. What should I use? We have already had a carpenter replace about 3 boards about 15 inches in from the edge. Snow seems to gather on the edge of the veranda in the winter.

We have a house that was built in 1924, and the front porch is tongue and groove douglas fir. The porch is over two rooms and is surrounded by brick. It does get rain and snow. Anyway, it does need replaced even though we faithfully painted it. Since we are tired of painting, we checked on having it replaced with concrete that is stamped like brick---too expensive. So now I am thinking of a product called AZEK that is also tongue and groove. If that is too expensive should we replace it with yellow pine or douglas fir? My husband said Douglas Fir since it lasted 84 years.

Thanks,

Linda

Dear Tim,

The floorboards in my three-season porch stick out on the outside. All of the ends that stick out are rotting and it is beginning to move to the inside (under the wall). Can I cut these boards off inside the porch and replace just the ends (about 6-12" in length needs replacing)?

I am already seeking measures to fix the reasons behind the rotting so I don't need advice on that aspect. I just want to replace a part of each board.

Thanks!

You mentioned composite flooring but no mention of where to purchase. I have an 1890 queen anne and need decking that has a 3 1/8 reveal. So far I have only found one place - CorrectDeck. Do you have any more references?

I read Linda Roche's e-mail but I didn't see your response.

We also would like to replace an old PTW deck using the Azek material.
What are you thoughts on this material?
Looks almost maintenance free!

How much will it cost if we use a high-quality, treated wood and do the labor ourselves? Our porch is roughly 24'x12' and we live in Northern Virginia.
Thank you!
Veronika

This article is very helpful for replacing tongue and groove wood floors, which we have. We have 2 boards that are showing signs of fungus/punky wood and a couple mushrooms that look like knots. It appears water got into some end grain an viola... fungal life.

In any event, We had the floor installed about 5 years ago (fir) and have painted twice. I'm noticing other boards with excessive end grain that have not gotten fungus, but look like candidates. Before I sand and repaint before the winter, I wondered if I could take a proactive approach to keep the fungus out these boards, plus the 2 already infected, by treating with a borate solution as you suggested., We have a few days w/o rain coming and I might be able to make that piece work.

Even if this is a short-term solution (season - to a couple years), I'd be willing to put some effort in until we can ID what boards may have to be replaced and do them all at once, instead of a couple every year or so.

You comments, suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Joan

I have the additional problem of the t&g porch floor being the ceiling over 2 small rooms of the basement (old fruit cellars?). Rot and leakage, as well as cold and drafty - how can I add an additional barrier to help keep out the wet and cold without creating a moisture trap? Could I use a layer of plywood covered with rubber or tar paper? Any cost effective suggestions would be appreciated!! Need easy, inexpensive and GOOD suggestions.