Ask the BuilderAsk the Builder
Ask the Builder's on:

Subscribe to askthebuilder's videos

Air Conditioning
Asphalt - Blacktop
Brick
Building Tips
Cabinets
Caulk
Ceilings
Ceramic Tile
Checklists
Chimneys
Concrete
Concrete Defects
Concrete Installation
Condensation
Countertops
Deck Construction
Deck Maintenance
Design
DIY
Doors
Drainage
Drywall - Plaster
DVDs
EBooks - EDocs
Electrical
Energy Savings
Engineered Wood
Fences
Fireplaces
Flooring
Foundation
Garage Doors
Glue
Hardware
Heating Design
Home Builders
Home Depot Stories
House Plans
Hurricanes
Insects
Inspections
Insulation
Interior Walls
Kitchen
Lighting
Lots
Miscellaneous
Mold
New Construction
Newsletters
Online Courses
Outdoor Projects
Painting - Staining
Patio
Payments
Plumbing Design
Plumbing Supplies
Projects
Radiant Barrier
Remodeling
Retaining Walls
Roofing
Rough Lumber
Screened Porches
Sheds
Siding
Specialty Accessories
Stone
Storage
Structural
Stucco - EIFS
Tools
Trim Lumber
Vapor Barrier
Ventilation
Videos
Walk Throughs
Wallpaper
Windows
Glossary




Trench Drain

By Tim Carter
©1993-2008 Tim Carter
Summary: A trench drain will help move water away from your house and yard. This trench drainage system, also known as a French drain, intercepts water before it reaches your house. The drain acts like an underground gutter, keeping your basement dry.

To post a comment you can return to the full article page

Comments

HJE
07 Apr 2008, 14:00
Should the perforated pipe be installed with the holes at the top or bottom of the trench?
BrianK
07 Apr 2008, 14:36
Tim graciously answered my question of which way the holes in the pipe should be a couple of years ago and the answer is DOWN. Water won't find the holes as its seeping down through the ground, but it will find them as the trench fills up.
Brian
AsktheBuilder
11 Apr 2008, 07:58
HJE,
I explain this in great detail in other columns you will discover in my Drainage category. Simple answer: down.
Alan Kent
12 Apr 2008, 07:06
Tim

My property has clay soil, the rear of the property is 8 feet higher than the front and I get damp in my garage during wet weather.

My question is how deep do I need to install a trench drain in the rear garden to prevent this damp problem, does it need to be 8 feet or will a more shallow trench be sufficient?

Thanks
AsktheBuilder
12 Apr 2008, 07:43
Alan,
I have had great success with trenches that are 2-feet deep. You should read each and every column in my Drainage category. Look for the ones that have testimonials in them from other homeowners.
Jim
12 Apr 2008, 11:14
Hi, and thanks for providing help to us novices.

I live in an area where the only soil is clay (other than a few inches of top soil trucked in.) I have water in my crawlspace when it is raining or when the ground starts to thaw. During these times, the area on that side of the house is a "mud-pit". My front yard is the high side and my back yard is low (about 6'). The water seems to originate in the front yard. My question is...Because the perforations in the drain tile face down, is it possible that the water will come from the front yard and spill out of those holes when it nears the side of the house? I'm asking because the footer of my crawlspace is 42" and the French Drain will be only 24". I understand why the perforations should be facing down, but I just dont understand why the water does not fall back out of those holes into the stone below when it passes a drier area.

I'm sure there's an explanation, but I'd like to understand it a little better before I begin.

Thanks again for your help.
Frank Buckley
17 Apr 2008, 09:44
I have surface water run-off and would like to use the trench drain you refer to. If the stone is left exposed on top, would this cause silt-clogging from the run-off water? Or, should I use geotextile material laid a few inches under the top layer of stones?
Jonas
18 Apr 2008, 20:23
Hi there,just found this site and bot is it helpful.
My question is... I have gutters and down spouts on all corners of my home,only one of the four go under ground into a 4 inch pipe non perforated which then goes to the backyard. I would like to do this with the other spouts because all they have on them are acordian style spouts that just lay in the yard.My neighbor tells me I have to dig down 4 feet below the frost barrier. I have not had any water problem and my home is only 5 years old,but built on a sandbar pretty much. Your idea is the one I would like to go with. My yard goes up and down all over. What do you recommend. Thanks again!! Jonas
Ben Wallace
23 Apr 2008, 16:13
I see a lot of options for a trench or french style drain, when you can lead the drain pipe to daylight. Unfortunately, my flat property doesn't really make this an option. What would you recommend for a drain, and drain pipe that has to end underground? Basically, I have what I feel is good draining soil, but have an area on a cement patio where water backs up. I'd like to divert that water into a drain by my lawn, and then through a trench, let the water drain down a perforated pipe into a hole further out in the yard (about 20 feet from the house) that's filled with rocks, and then will be covered.

Is this an acceptable way to divert water? does anyone have experience doing it like this? could the same be done with gutter downspouts?

I appreciate any help with the above. Thanks!
Stephen
25 Apr 2008, 12:59
I have a simlliar issue as Ben Wallace as there is no good place to drain the water above ground. My backyard slopes towards a low spot away from my neighbors around me and away from my house, but it becomes a bog whenever it rains. Is it feasible to have the drain pipe end underground and still be effective. Also, how should the pipe slope in order to dry out that area. Thanks.
Greg Grover
18 May 2008, 13:35
My problem is a wet basement. I plan to waterproof the cinder block walls with a membrane material and put in footer drains. My question is why must the drains end at daylight? I really don't want water pooling on the surface or flowing to my neighbors yard. My thoughts were that if water is dumped on the surface and drains through the soil then why can't the water drain in a drywell under the surface surrounded by gravel with surface access.
John Cook
21 May 2008, 11:18
Hi,

Currently using the advice they (askthebuilder) gave me in my French Drain Project - I'm finding it really usefull.

My ground is sloped so don't have the same issue that you do but how does this sound?

Install your FD in a sloped fashion and lead the exit to a dry well (you can build one - easily) the water will evaporate from the well and problem solved. The only other things I can think of is make sure the Dry well is big enough to hold the water or else your pipe may back up and/or tank the water to use during dry spells to water your lawn.
Kent
17 Jun 2008, 20:41
I had a house in Colorado that was on a hill with springs in it. There was a french drain around the outside that ended up in one low spot around the back yard. There was a submerged sump pump in the hole and it took out all the water that the french drain brought in. The water ran through pvc to the curb and drained into the street. I have no idea if it was legal, but that was what was there when we moved in, and it worked well as long as the sump pump was working!
jeff
21 Jun 2008, 13:22
I have a home that seems to be build with out code considerations. The house next door also has a lot of ground water. We call it soggy lawn. I have noticed that the crawl space is also always damp. We have thought about the trecnch drain and will go that route im sure. Is there a poss or negative by using the 6' line or larger. We are looking at doing a mote style trench drain, three sided. I sure would like some input. Jeff

     To post a comment you can return to the full article page













Ask the Builder Comment Help

Helpful Comment Tips: If you need help with a problem, please try these things now before you type in a comment. You could discover your answer in just minutes.
  • Read ALL Comments Before Submitting One: If there are lots of comments that are already part of this column, there is a very good chance your question has already been answered by me or someone else.
  • Read Similar-Titled Columns First: The column above is almost always part of a two-or-three-part series. The answer to a question you may have is probably in a related column or in comments that are part of that column.
  • Read Columns in a Category: Take the time to read many columns in a category. The amount of information you will discover will amaze you.
  • SHARE a Story: Please share any tips or amusing tales of glory! Tell others what has worked for you. Maybe you have a disaster you want to discuss. Let's collaborate so we all learn together.
Don't show this alert again.