Hardwood Floor
Summary: A hardwood floor is great looking and very durable. Hardwood floor installation is possible for the home do-it-yourselfer if your room is not too complicated. Hardwood floor refinishing methods have reduced the dust sanding process. With proper hardwood floor care, your hardwood flooring will look great for years.
DEAR TIM: I know I want a hardwood floor, but I need answers. Is hardwood flooring as durable as the salespeople say? Do you think it’s possible to do the hardwood floor installation myself? I have a friend who’s a finish carpenter who said he’d help. How often do you have to do the dusty hardwood floor refinishing? Should I go with oak hardwood flooring, or are there other choices? Michelle D., Londonderry, NH
DEAR MICHELLE: A hardwood floor is nearly as durable as the granite that’s responsible for your state’s nickname. I can take you to commercial buildings in New Hampshire where hardwood floors have been in continuous use for well over 150 years. I would say that absolutely passes the durability test, unless you’ve somehow figured out how to stop your body from aging. With proper care, hardwood flooring can last in a home for generations looking as good as the day it was installed.
You and your carpenter friend may be able to survive the hardwood floor installation if the room is small and a simple square or rectangle. While you might think that it’s not hard to install a hardwood floor, it can be very challenging. There are many tricks and skills you have to acquire to have a hardwood floor that doesn’t squeak, stays in alignment and doesn’t buckle or develop shrinkage cracks.
The biggest mistake you can make is not allowing the flooring material to acclimate to the temperature and humidity of the room before it’s installed. Hardwood flooring is a hygroscopic material meaning that it will change it’s shape and size with changes in temperature and especially humidity. Make sure the house and room where the flooring material will be installed is at the temperature and humidity it will be at when you live there. Purchase the hardwood flooring and bring it into the room. Unbundle it and allow it to acclimate for seven to ten days before you install it to be safe.
Hardwood floor refinishing is the bane of many a homeowner. Years ago, it was common for clouds of very fine dust to billow throughout the house as a pro would refinish the hardwood floors. Modern refinishing equipment has eliminated virtually all of the dust. But the great news is that if you do regular hardwood floor care, it should never have to be sanded again.
Most hardwood floors are coated with multiple layers of clear urethane. Some of these urethanes are extremely durable. Many people forget that you don’t walk on the wood floors. You walk on the thin layers of urethane. If you make sure the urethane doesn’t wear off in the high-traffic areas of the hardwood floor, there’s no need to ever sand the wood. If you simply add a new coat of urethane every three to five years, you should never have to bring in the heavy sanding equipment. You only need to lightly screen or sand the urethane prior to applying the new coat.
Oak hardwood flooring is perhaps the most common material used as flooring because it’s plentiful, affordable and extremely durable. The two species that I used in my homes and jobs are white oak and red oak. I’m very partial to red oak as when finished with a clear urethane, it looks like the most gorgeous strawberry blonde lass you’ve ever seen. White oak hardwood flooring finishes with a more stark light coloration.
There are many other hardwoods that are turned into flooring. Maple hardwood flooring is a popular choice because of its durability and its fine-grained appearance. Oak has a heavier grain. You can also get, with minimal effort, a cherry hardwood floor or even a drop-dead gorgeous red birch hardwood floor like I have in my New Hampshire house. Walnut, ash and poplar are other hardwoods you may want to consider.
But the salesman may talk you down to a different grade called Number 1 Common. Before you approve of this grade, look at many pieces to ensure you’re okay with the size and number of knots that will be visible in the flooring.
Some people like knots as they produce a floor with a certain degree of character. I prefer to have as few as possible. The species and grade of the hardwood flooring are almost always stamped on the underside of many of the pieces of lumber. When the material is delivered to your home, unbundle it and look to see if it’s the species and grade you paid for.
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Comments:
frank lee 15 Mar 2009, 13:32 i agree that a hardwood floor looks great. i wonder if you have a column discussing the ramifications of installing over heated slab, and the question of whether or not to remove the existing asbestos tiles before installing? wilton, ct
R Brooks 20 Mar 2009, 15:37
Is it possible to lay new hardwood floors without a transition piece from
existing tile to the wood? They are both the same height...
K smith 12 Jun 2009, 08:17
Question: I am about to have an oak floor installed in my condo and it has
been recommended that I used "floormuffler" as my underlayment. I want to
be respectful of my neighbor and want the best noise reduction I can get.
This seems to be a good one, any insights on this product?
Thank you
Jeromy 07 Jul 2009, 07:42
I just bought a new construction home from a local builder (it was not
built for me, but was built and put on the market by the builder). The
house has hardwood flooring in 3/4 of the space. We're seeing cracks in a
lot of the boards (some are 6-8" long) as well as some heaving at the edges
of some of the rooms. I have the standard "builder's warranty" that covers
workmanship and materials but it's too vague to know what I should hold the
builder to. This is mostly a warranty question because there is not a lot
of information on what "workmanship" is limited to. For example, the
builder didn't ventilate the attic enough nor did he insulate the crawl
space. Our county doesn't hold builders to the code but at some point you
have to ask what is a design versus a workmanship issue.
Denise 28 Oct 2009, 11:35
I have hardwood floors in my kitchen and formal diningrooms that was in the
home when I bought it, I want to install more hardwoods in the livingroom
and hallway, I wanted to go with a differnt color floors, my question is
should you change the color of the hardwoods when they are ajoining rooms?
Aaron 18 Nov 2009, 22:27
Hi Tim, I am doing a job for a client and was wondering how to
1) Remove hardwood flooring securely? 2) Should I make my lines and then secure the ends where I will be cutting into the floor by nailing the "new ends" and then cut? Any advice you could offer me would be a greta help. Thanks.
Tina 18 Jan 2010, 10:16
Hi Tim, I am getting ready to re-model and one of the hardest decisions I
am having is hardwood or laminate. My contractor says go laminate due to
the face that I have a 60 lb dog and young kids it will hold up better. I
really like the hardwood look though and worry that my floor will look
fake. What is your opinion?
Dave 11 Feb 2010, 09:01
Hi Tim , The wife and I are in the beginning process of a major
renovation to our 1905 home's main level.
Kitchen,bathroom and hardwood covering the whole open concept main level. The house has some dipping and rising issues , about 1 inch in a 14 foot span. It's low in the middle , then rises upwards to the outside wall. My question is to get it level do I take the layer of old 4" hardwood and 2 layers of shiplap down to the joists and level each one , or put a floor leveling compound down and try to nail in through it ? Also , would you recommend real or engineered flooring , price is really not an issue .... I only want to do this once . Thank You for your time. Dave. View all comments |



