When I moved across the country, I left my old workbench and built a new
one. I used 2x6's for the legs and frame. I put on a melamine top. Its been
on for 9 years and I haven't flipped it yet, but when I do, it'll be like
brand new. Its 96 x 30, so a little deeper than Tim recomends, but I like
it. An important improvement that I made was the overhang for clamping
things. Its height is 36 inches, which I found to be a good standing
height. I recently saw a sale at Sears for a 96 x 24 maple top table with a
metal frame for less than $200 which is not bad. You might want to check
them.
Brian
Workbenches
Summary: A good workbench will help you with your projects. Workbenches can be built in a variety of styles - wood workbenches, metal workbenches or even adjustable height workbenches. Here are some tips to help when you build your garage workbench.
DEAR TIM: I’m sure you know about workbenches. My New Year’s resolution was to build a home workbench. I’ve seen workbenches for sale, but they seem too small for me. I’m up for the task of building a custom workbench, but am worried about the best way to do it. The surface needs to be durable, but affordable. Do you have any secrets you’d like to share about building a workshop workbench? Andy M., Enola, PA
DEAR ANDY: I have many secrets to share, and will try to give you as many as I can in this limited space. Tool workbenches are my favorite, and over the years I’ve built many for clients as well as one for each house I’ve owned. As you might imagine, each time I’ve constructed one, I’ve made an improvement on the design. I’m sure others have great ideas, but here’s what’s worked for me.
This workbench was made using scrap oak parquet flooring. It's an amazing workbench that's been abused by my son. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
You might consider a maple workbench if you’re looking for durability. I’ve built quite a few oak workbenches that really take an enormous amount of abuse showing little wear. Only the top has to be made from the maple or the oak, and you can sometimes get great deals on scrap hardwood or maple flooring that you can nail to a plywood panel that serves just like a subfloor underneath a regular hardwood floor.
The legs of the workbench need to be stout. I suggest wood 4x4 posts. The frame or undercarriage of the workbench can be 2x4s that are secured to the posts. I suggest not making the workbench any deeper than 24 inches. If you go deeper, it will be very difficult to reach across the bench to get tools that might be on pegboard above the work surface.
If you need a wider tabletop to assemble things, you’ll be better off making a roll-away table for the middle of the workshop. These stand-alone tables should always be lower in height than a normal workbench.
The finished height of your workbench is really critical. Too low and you’re bending over to do many tasks. Too high and you’ll stand on your tip toes doing things on the workbench when you place a larger object on the bench.
This is one reason people often look to construct an adjustable-height workbench. There are challenges in doing this, not the least of which is the weight of the workbench top. I’ve found that a 34-inch finished height is very practical. But I’m shorter than average, being just under 5-feet 8 inches tall. Keep this in mind if you’re tall.
The height is so critical, I really recommend that you construct a sample small workbench to see what works for you. If this is too much effort, place some cardboard on your kitchen countertops and see if the tools you work with are comfortable at that height. The time you spend perfecting the height for your own body stature will be well worth it.
As you assemble the posts, the 2x4 undercarriage and the plywood that covers the frame, I suggest using screws. Nails can come loose over time and your workbench may begin to wobble. If you use oak or maple flooring for the top surface, that gets nailed to the plywood with standard flooring nails that are driven through the tongues of the flooring.
I suggest that the finished top of the workbench overhang the 2x4 undercarriage by at least 2.5 inches all the way around. The finished edge you see ends up 1.5-inches thick, and this makes for a firm base to attach a squeeze clamp. I find myself constantly clamping things to my workbench, and this design works great for me.
It’s a great idea to create a shelf below the workbench. This shelf helps stabilize the legs of the workbench. You want the workbench to be rock solid and never sway back and forth. A bench loaded with tools can weigh hundreds of pounds and cause serious injury if it collapses.
You might consider coating the oak or maple with clear urethane to protect the wood from any moisture. Be aware that you’ll surely scratch this urethane if you use your workbench like I do. But if you’re a perfectionist, you can recoat the surface with water-based urethane that dries in an hour.
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Comments:
Brian K 22 Dec 2009, 22:45
John 24 Dec 2009, 10:50
I've moved a lot in my life and the key to every great work bench I've made
is a vise mounted to the front corner. Unless you are doing electronics, a
minimum size should be 3". The corner allows larger pieces to be attached
at various angles. The third hand or crushing force this affords will make
working at your bench enjoyable. If your bench is built heavy-duty and the
lower shelf is stacked with weight as mine always is, you'll be able to
exert tremendous force with out your bench scooting across the floor. I
also suggest attaching your workbench to the wall studs at the backside.
Vises are a great gift to ask for and the 4-6" opening models are in a great price-point.
Jeff 04 Jan 2010, 10:11
Thanks very much for the outline of the bench!
I adapted the published bench to accomodate my 6'1" height and used a 4x6 piece of 1/2 inch plywood I already had. I made a 3'x6' bench top and added a couple of 2"x4" cross supports for the upper frame to stiffen the lighter plywood and then I added a 12" lower shelf and left the front of the lower frame open to save my shins. I also learned about flooring and flooring nails. DRILL PILOT HOLES! :). Thanks again, it was just waht I needed.
Steve R 10 Jan 2010, 21:50
I am thinking obout replacing my work bench to keep peace with my wife.
I want to build a fold up type with pipe for legs so they can be removed when not in use. I just havent figured how to install my vice and grinder when they are needed. Any advice?
Robert 02 Feb 2010, 12:34
I am in the middle of constructing a 24 foot long by 4 feet deep bench.
Like Tim I used wood anchored to thecement basement wall. The front has
four 4X4 wood legs. In the middle, I am framing it so a planer, chop saw,
or anything else can be wheeled in. Good luck. P.S. I went to the local
wood floor supplier and picked up 100 sq feet of beechwood flooring for the
top for aroun fifty bucks.
Mike 02 Feb 2010, 12:38
Steve...
I've got my grinder (And most of my other bench style tools for that matter) bolted to a piece of scrap plywood or two stacked on top of each other. I simply glued the two peice of playwood together with wood glue and then attached the tools. The 1.5 inch thickness makes a very useable and strong platform. When I need to use it I simply use C clamps to clamp the plywood down to the bench. I used carriage bolts to attach the plywood to the grinder legs and recessed them slightly so the top of the head is even with the plywood surface on the bottom. For most tools I make sure to have about 3-4 inches on open space on either side of the tool for the clamps so the clamps don't get in the way or you can find an alternative clamping spot if they interfere for a project.
Mike 02 Feb 2010, 12:40
Steve...I almost forgot about your vice. I would think the plywood
mounting method would work for your vice as well. Although I'm sure its
going to be heavy! Good Luck!
Dan 03 Feb 2010, 06:07
I built my work bench using a 2by 4 web frame, then layed on 2 sheets of
3/4 covered by 1/4 inch masonite. the masonite is screwed down so I can
replace it when it gets to grundgie. I also framed it in hardwood to
protect the edge. I drill on it sand on it and pound on it. It is very
solid and unlike wood it does not shrink or swell with the changes in the
weather.
Robert Tingler 05 Feb 2010, 12:19
Dan, I made a similar bench for my basement, but I used stair material as
the bench top base and covered it with tempered Masonite, which took a lot
more abuse than regular Masonite.
Another suggestion is to use an old kitchen base cabinet, without the countertop, (or buy a new base cabinet) and work it into your bench design to provide drawers or enclosed shelves. If you reinforce the base cabinet frame, it can be part of the support for the bench top. If you use Tim's search box for "workbench" you will find a lot more information on the subject.
JimD 17 Feb 2010, 07:21
I'm planning on building a garage workbench. One feature I'd like to
incorporate is hiding my lawnmower and snow blower under it. Anyone have
any experience with a bench of this type? Any tips?
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