Ceramic Tile Floor Tips
Summary: Installing ceramic floor tile depends heavily on the ceramic tile floor layout. Ceramic tile adhesive is also important. Cutting tile and grouting tile finish off the job. Here are some tips for ceramic floor tile installation.
Ceramic Tile Floor Installation Tips
Layout - The Key to Good Looking Work
Layout of a tile job is the key to a pro looking job. You need to be sure that you don't end up with tiny pieces at a threshold or along a wall. These always look bad. Rooms are sometimes not square. This means that if you start with a full tile along a wall, you may end up cutting tile or adding slivers of tile.
Chalk a center line each direction in the room. The lines, at the center where they intersect, must be square! Do a 3-4-5 triangle to verify for square. From the center where the two lines cross, measure three feet down one line. Then measure four feet down the other line. Using your tape measure, connect the two dots at the ends of these two lines. If you get exactly five feet the two center lines are square!
Now, take some tiles from a box and begin to lay them out with the proper spacing between them until you get to a wall(s). See what you end up with. Hopefully it will be approximately half a tile. Do the same where the tile will meet another floor. If you can start with a full tile at this location it sometimes looks much better. Remember, this other floor must be square to the tile layout! Adjust your lines until you are satisfied with your layout.
Glue - Thinset - Mastic
The adhesive that you choose depends on several things. If you use a plywood subfloor, an organic or epoxy adhesive is recommended. If you are setting your tile on cementitious board or concrete, a cement based thinset works well. The thickness of the adhesive is a function of the type of tile you are using. Tiles often have different bottom surfaces. Some are smooth, some have lines and some have lugs. If you put on too little adhesive, void spaces will be present under the tile. This can cause tiles to crack under concentrated loads. Too much adhesive will cause the grout lines to fill up with adhesive. This is a mess! The tile manufacturer will always tell you how much adhesive and which type trowel to use.
Cutting Tiles
There are several ways to cut tiles. Many glazed tiles can be scored with a tile cutter and snapped successfully. However, it is tough to do this along an edge if you are trying to just take off 1/2 inch. You can also use a diamond wet or dry saw. The wet saws, with a good blade, make smooth cuts. You can also buy a rod saw made from carborundum that fits in a standard hacksaw. This works fine but is slow going. Finally, a nipper tool will "bite" off chunks of tile for weird cuts.
Grouting
Grouting is difficult. You must work in small areas not allowing the grout you just applied to get too hard. When striking the joints use a grout sponge with rounded edges. Squeeze as much water as possible from the sponge. Too much water weakens the grout! It will crack and powder. Often you may have to rinse the sponge five or six times just to do a one foot by two foot area! Practice in a closet if you have never done this before. A poor grout job will show!
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Comments:
Ed Sehn 11 Jun 2009, 22:40
We live in southern Alberta Canada, and have fairly severe winter weather
(low temperatures). I am going to set some porcelain tile on a concrete
floor (which is old but in excellent condition) located in a covered
outside foyer 9 x 12 feet. I have narrowed the choice of tile to two frost
proof options (moisture rated at .05%). One is 8mm thick and the second is
5mm thick. The density appears to be the same for either choice. My
question is "Does the thickness of the tile have any impact on the
durability of the floor"? For example, Would a rolling an appliance over
the tile crack the thinner tile easier than the thicker tile assuming they
are both properly installed?
Thank you in advance, E Sehn View all comments |




