Installing Fiber Cement Siding

I have read many installations advice articles on fiber cement siding. They all share a similar reference that the installation is similar to that of wood siding. However, I have not noted any references regarding temperature related installation limits; specifically cold temperatures. Can you comment on the cold weather installation limits of fiber cement siding, please?

Steve,
You bet I can. I will tell you what I tell everyone who asks a similar question; Get the *written* installation instructions from the manufacturer and see what they say. Why is this important? Because only the manufacturer is going to back the warranty. Be very careful about getting instructions from people who will be of little use when the going gets rough.

Thank you, Mr. Carter...

CertainTeed does not specifically address limitations other than to say you should use extra precautions in colder temps. What I found interesting is that they will offer recommendations over the phone but will not reply in writing via email when asked the same question. Other questions were promptly reply to but the cold weather question went unanswered. I'm not an attorney but I would think that the ommission of specifics would not relieve them of their obligation to warrant the product - heaven forbid something happened. Any thoughts?

Steve,
I would just install it normally. If the temperature is below 20F, I might think of cutting pieces a tad short to allow for expansion when the hot weather arrives.

Sometimes I prefer to use a screw fastener. Would a deck screw be preferable to a regular multi-purpose screw for cement products?

Steve,
Use the EXACT fasteners as specified by the manufacturer of the siding. This will protect your warranty.

Hi;
On the installation of HardiPlank or Fibre cement siding. I live at a very high wind driven rain area on the Columbia River in Washington and have installed 8-1/4 inch wide Hardi Plank on my house, using 6 inch laps. My neighbor also did the same. I nailed it on along the bottom of the plank, every 16 inches. My neighbor nailed his on along the top. His siding was flapping with every wind, and all had to be replaced. I used topar under the hardi Plank. After 7
years, all of the sheathing on the weather side was totally rotten on my house, including the 6 inch studs. Also, I noticed that the hand driven nails had blown out the back of the Hardi Plank where ever nailed. I'm not interested in Lawyers, just want a good product that works. I did the caulking, and this time, when I Rebuilt it, I used
pressure treated wood under the siding, and 30 lb felt. Does anyone have a suggestion about the installation, E.G.;
Blown out back where nailed, and rot; the best way to install??
Thanks,
John

John,
You should have come here before you started. I have numerous columns telling you how to make a house with siding of any type rot-proof. The best way to install siding you ask? Well, read all of my columns and pay attention to the ones where I talk about felt paper and water membranes. Also, read the siding manufacturer's written instructions.

Hello again,
Yes, I have read your comments and what little info there is on the installation of cement siding, the advice being mostly to ask the Manufacturer. But of course the Manufacturer doesn't mention that the siding is inherently flawed. Too bad no there isn't any info on what problems I have addressed to you. That is in wind driven rain, after using strips of tar paper at all of the butt joints, tar paper or topar behind the siding, caulk etc. the siding still is wet behind the tar paper or topar wrap.
The back of the siding is blown out where nails are driven (similar to a gun shot, where the hole going in is small, and the back of the hole is large). I guess that is just one of the problems inherent in the product.
I am glad that you do have a website where people can make comments about unresolved and unaddresed issues. For that I thank you.
John

John,

I became concerned with the installation of my siding when I noted the installers were over-driving the nails with their nail guns. On a couple occassions I noted, what appeared to be, a drive by shooting. A 12 foot panel with 15 or more nail heads. On 16 inch centers the max number of nails would be 10. It was as if they fired away until they hit pay dirt. Anyway, that crew got booted. The crew that followed did a remarkable job. We seldom have the type of weather you mention, but the Tyvek, butt joint flashing and 1.75 inch overlap gave me extra comfort because we opted to go with the blind nail fastening. We also chose Certainteed. To test the product before it was installed I broke off a piece and put it in a bucket of water over the weekend. Boy was I surprised to find it did not wick any water or deteriorate in the least. We also had the product sent out for custom pre-finishing.

What product manufacture did you use on your home?

FYI, Certainteed's website has a reasonably comprehensive installers manual.

Steve

We are planning on residing our 20 year home, It currently has very cheap siding L 10 11 or something ,it also run vertical panel, Do you recomennd going over it, ? It seems to be in fair shape. I also have no idea what under it..I dont think sertainly any tyvek or tar paper.. Th e few contracters I have spoken with to just go over it..the thouhgt of water and rot getting in behind it sounds a liitle to horrific for me. Suggestions?

Jeanne,
Your intuition is correct. Remove the existing siding, inspect for damage and then install a new water barrier followed by the new siding.

I am looking at purchasing a house with relatively new cement fiber siding. I noticed that the horizontal boards just butt up against each other (I have seen other installs where there is a "spacer" of some sort where boards meet). Most are caulked well (a few are not) but was wondering if this was normal?

I am looking at purchasing a house that has relatively new cement fiber siding. I noted that the horizontal boards just butt up against each other. Most seams are caulked (I saw a couple that weren't). I have seen other installs where there is some sort of insert where the boards meet. Is it okay to not have this insert?

Hello;
I understand that Hardiplank siding is all
made in Mexico. Certainteed is just a distributor, like Home Depot where I bought mine. Should it make any difference in the installation if the same siding is bought from a different Distributor? The fact is that this siding is flawed at it's core, though it is better than some of the other sidings like press board siding. It cracks very easily, (small hairline cracks), and the back of where the nails go through is blown out, no matter how careful the nailing is done. Maybe pre-drilling every nail hole would be better.

Matt,
I have always used a butt joint on wood and cement siding. But I never rely on caulk to seal the joint! I always insert a piece of tin or copper flashing under the two pieces of siding at the joint. The flashing is 2-inches wide and is as tall as the siding itself. I do hold it up from the bottom of the pieces of siding about 1/4 inch so the metal can't be seen from below.

John,
Have you looked for tips at the manufacturer's website? Maybe there is a recall on a bad lot.

I am also scheduled to install Hardi Plank siding on a house in Western WA high on a hillside that blows horizontal rain all winter long. Lap cedar siding on this house is toast and windows leak.
I read everything James Hardi says about installing their product, but it isn't enough. I'm thinking of face nailing just to avoid problems like another user had. I hate Tyvek, because it will NOT let water out once it gets in. I've had to rebuild new construction, only 4 years old totally white with rot when enclosed in Tyvek. I would like good specific instructions on the best way to install this product.

I am currently getting bids on residing our house. We have LP siding now with a cardboard/foil backer board. Some installers say I should have 1/2" osb under it so that it has some support. What are your thoughts?

Fiber cement trim is available in 3/4", 1", and 1 1/2". Multiple manufactureres offer fiber cement trim boards (I work for one of them).

You don't need to use wood or vinyl trim with fiber cement siding. You can do the whole wrap in fiber cement siding.

John Bannan
11 Apr 2008, 12:02
Hello;
I understand that Hardiplank siding is all
made in Mexico.

No, Hardie siding products are made in the USA at multiple locations, as is at least some of CertainTeed's.

When using cement/fibre planks.......can mortar or masonary adhesive be used to attach this product over healthy stucco in a purely decorative application, in lui of nails? (Southern California dry inland climate) I'm thinking if you can use mortar on brick or faux stone siding...why not planks ?

I am installing 4x8 sheets of Hardie Panel, then going back with a 1x2 to create a board'n'batten look.

Should I install the window and corner trim first, or the Hardie Panel?

Also, is nailing the Hardie Panel right on top of the Tyvek on OSB okay? I'll be reading through other columns this weekend when I have a chance.

Thanks,
Tim

Mr. Carter,

Certainteed does not recommend that you caulk the butt joints. They do recommend that you flash them.

Also, Certainteed recommends against hand nailing unless your sheathing is solid. In other words, DO NOT hand nail if you have foam board sheathing over studs. If you do, the back of the lap siding will be blown out where the nail comes through.