Installing a Pressure Reducing Valve

I am the first owner of a 3-year-old townhouse in a 31-unit condominium complex with a single water meter at the street. Periodically, I am plagued by leaks in the area of the kitchen sink. I will come back from a vacation or wake up in the morning and find a large quantity of water on my kitchen floor. One time it will be coming from the faucet area, another from the water line under the sink, and another from I don't know where. I'll tighter a connection, or call a plumber, and it might go away for a while (even several months). Also, I can do nothing at all, and it will go away for a while. Then all of a sudden, it's back -- not a tiny leak, but a major problem that gets the entire area under the sink wet, or (after I sealed the area behind the faucet)that flows across the counter top and down onto the floor. The flow can be as much as a quart a day, tapering off over several days to a tiny drip.

The plumber who came out in May 2007 wrote "Was called out about leak under kitchen sink. Found a slight leak from base of faucet but could not be the source for the amount of water owner described. Reset faucet in puddy. Looked outside -- believe leak to be siding or roof leak." While he was here, he installed a filter on the water line under the sink that goes to the refrigerator/ice maker.

I had no problems during the summer. In the fall, I had a leak where the plumber had installed the filter, but was able to tighten the connection myself, and that seemed to do it. The next time there was water under the sink, I turned off the water line going to the refrigerator, and haven't turned it back on.

Then on Thursday I had another flood, flowing across the top of the counter and down onto the floor. I mopped it up, and was able to see that it was coming from a leak near the base of the faucet. Right now, it's completely dry. I have a handyman coming over tomorrow to fix that.

I seem to be having a lot of plumbing issues, for living in a new building. All of the problems have been in the kitchen, in the area of the sink. I'm starting to wonder if part of the problem is variable pressure in the lines coming into my unit, and if so, what I might be able to do about it.
The problems this fall started the week after the City did system-wide pressure-testing. Could that have triggered it?

Elaine,
It is highly doubtful in my opinion. I think you need to bring in a *real* plumber. I am a licensed master plumber, but can't come to your house now. Contact your local Master Plumbers Association and get two opinions.

My house was built in '78. When we moved in we noticed that the water pressure is fine at faucets until you turn another faucet on, then it drops way down. I started digging to find a prv, and I've followed the pipe to about 3 feet from the owner shutoff valve, which is about 6 inches from the city manhole in my front yard. Still nothing. I was hoping to find a prv so I could increase the pressure. Where would it be if it exists? On another issue -- while turning the owner shutoff to make sure that it is open all the way, I noticed that the knob is very loose and no matter how much I turn it, I can't tighten it. There also seems to be a slight leak around the knob. Any advice on these issues?

JB,
Ask neighbors if they have issues. Then call in the Water Works folks to see what they say.

I already had asked my neighbor. His pressure was good. I had the city water dept. come out and they showed me that the pressure to the house was good. The fact that the owner shutoff value would not turn off was the key. The city guy told me to replace it. It wasn't hard to do. When I got it off it was 99 percent closed. I put the new one on and all is great! The previous owner must have been trying to turn his water back on when the valve broke, but since he still had some water, he didn't bother fixing it.

My pressure valve is leaking some, the one that comes in from the street in my basement, is this normal??

Leo,
No.

I have a question about measuring water pressure. "The model plumbing codes state that 80 PSI or greater is too high. Stay at or below 70 PSI and you will be just fine." I've taken readings from my hose bib with all water outlets turned off and with a sink turned on. Which is the proper way to measure water pressure?

My "idle" pressure (with all sinks closed, etc.) is at about 95 psi. I'm pretty sure this is too high. When I turn on a sink, the meter reads about 40 psi.

Thanks!!

Adam,
The reading is taken with no fixtures on.

I need to replace the pressure reducing valve (PS 50) on the inlet side of the hot water cylinder. Does the inlet of the cylinder have a check valve? (Dux 250F1 36) Thanks.

Maurie,
I have no clue. Ask the manufacturer.

I just changed over from a gravity fed system to a pressure pump but my problem lies with our wood fired hot water system. The pressure pump pumped water straight through and out the shephards crook. The system stated a maximum pressure of 72Kpa but so i tried a pressure reduction valve but had to screw it right out to the point where i have lost pressure. The pump pumpes at 50Kpa so the reduction valve was pointless. Are there any valves that i can replace the shephards crook with so i can run the pump at its full 50Kpa?

I installed a tankless water heater recently. My water pressure right now is high at 80PSI. (It varies a little throughout the year) My water heater now stops heating occasionally for a few moments while I'm using hot water for anything. Do you think it is because of high water pressure. I had a pressure reducer on there, but my pressure was down at 40-50 and it seemed to be turned all the way on so I removed it.
Thanks, Scott :)

My PSI is at 150, but the pressure coming from my faucets seems low. The house is over 100 years old with updated plumbing 20 years ago. Would you recommend installing a PVR?

Water started dripping out of the pipe that is connected to the pressure release valve on my water heater and the volume is increasing steaadily. I also hear water hammer in after I use the sink. Is this due to a bad pressure
reducing valve? I measured the pressure
at the hose outlets and found the pressure to be 80psi at the outlet closest to the supply line and 55psi at the other one. My house is about 22 years old.

we are experiencing low water pressure, especially in the shower. outside it can 60 psi, so i'm guessing the problem lies within the house. what else can i do to correct this. the water in the sink comes out strong for about 2 seconds then slows down and it is impossible to take aa shower now. thanks.

I have been asked to install a prv on a friends house because I have done some plumbing in the past.He currently has 90 psi and wants about 70; his neighbors all claim great salutations after having their's installed. I feel confident enough in my knowledge to do it but am concerned with bleeding the lines and other issues. Should I call in the troops?

Hi,
Had plumber out to measure pressure at the outside bib. He reported less than 30. For unknown reasons, my neighbor has a below grade bibb in a box near the meter street side. The plumber said that may be because it was before a PRV and the pressure was higher... he measured that bibb too, read 30. So..
Plumber wasn't too much help... what can I do next? Contact city verify measure? Also, How can I determine if I have a PRV and where it would be located exactly??? The water pressure is so low and bothersome.... Please help!

My pressure is 40. The coty says the old tanks they kept filled are done and so I cant expect an increase. I was told a PRV could increase my pressure, is that true or should I buy a pump? Any reccomendations. Please!

My water =65 psi & flow =32 gal/min but I still have low press/vol in house & sprinkler system. What's my problem?

The city checked both and said the problem must be from main to house. since the sprinkler system is also experiencing low pressure the problem has to be right after the main before it tees to the house and the back flow check valve. so is my problem that there is a pressure reducer immediately after the main box? (since the back flow box is next to the main box)

House is six years old. Three weeks ago we noticed a noise when either toilet was flushed (especially just as the tank was almost full), the washer
was filling, or sometimes when the shower was being used and a tap was opened. It is a moaning noise, almost
like a very rapid vibration, can be heard outside and is most noticeable
in the room where the supply line enters the house (on a crawl space).
Had the meter replaced, did not help.
Could it be a failing pressure reducer/regulator? Have 70 PSI at both
sill cocks. If there is a reducer it
is underground as there is nothing in the line after entering under the house.

Water started pouring out of the bottom of my frig. Appliance repairman telephonically diagnosed the problem as a broken water valve issue with the frig.
Had a licensed plumber come out to diagnose problem and he concurred that it was a frig issue as well.
He tested the pressure at outdoor spiggots and got varying readings 80-100 (front and back ) and repeated the front at got 140. He told us he thought we needed to replace a malfunctioning a PVR...told us a high pressure in the line could have caused the break in the frig water valve.

What could account for varying/inconsistent readings on the outside spiggots minutes apart? Do we need another opinion? Thanks so much!

Dose the PRV go before the front valve gate or after , or dose it matter? I know the street pressure at the front valve gate is good for washing the car and stuff but is it standard practice

My prv was installed approx. 14 years ago. When water is turned on anywhere in the house the valve gives off high pitch whistle. Can this be corrected or does the valve have to be replaced.

My pressure reducing valve makes a loud whistling noise about 30 seconds after the toilet flushes. The noise can be heard throughout the house and is very disruptive. I have also noticed that the pressure in the house seems too low. Will adjusting the screw to allow for more pressure also get rid of the noise or is the valve faulty?

How can i tell whether the pressure reducing valve past the main is going out? home built 4 years ago.
I do have rattling in the walls and low h2o pressure.

I had a free-lance plumber replace a pressure reducing valve at the water meter, which was reading 118 psi. He put in a 3/4 inch valve instead of the required 1 inch valve. The 3/4 inch valve was short, and he had to put in a pvc coupling to make it fit. Will the smaller valve and coupling cause problems?