Can I attach this tank to the supply line with a flexible pipe--copper or
Stanless steel, the same ones used to attach the water heater to the water
lines?
ATB
28 Nov 2007, 07:44
You can do anything you want. The better question might have been: Tim, how
would you do it in your home? The tank would screw onto a male nipple
soldered to hard copper. The nipple would point up to the sky so the water
moving into the tank would always push the bladder up and gravity would
always be trying to pull the water down.
John
03 Dec 2007, 14:18
I had to replace a leaking expansion tank. I turned off the water flow,
unscrewed the old tank, screwed in the new tank, and turned back on the
water flow. Did I miss something?
AsktheBuilder
03 Dec 2007, 15:11
No. Unless you installed the wrong-sized tank.
Randy
05 Dec 2007, 09:39
What pressure do I charge my expansion tank to when filling the closed loop
system?
AsktheBuilder
05 Dec 2007, 09:43
Whatever the enclosed written instructions say.
Maggie
05 Dec 2007, 12:38
I'm in the process of buying a home. The failed the hot water heater for
not having an expansion tank. Is this something that can be added to an
existing hot water heater? How much does this typical cost?
AsktheBuilder
05 Dec 2007, 12:49
Maggie,
They can be added with no problems. It is impossible for me to give you an
accurate quote. Besides..... the *seller* should be paying!
Andrew
05 Dec 2007, 13:58
I assume if you have a supply pressure via a well with say a 30/50 switch
(the pressure varies accordingly) that you use the setup pressure of your
water storage tank (i.e. just below the low pressure switch setting?
darrell
19 Dec 2007, 20:58
50 gal gas hwh. 4 yrs old put in when we built the house. grundfos
recrecirculating pump installed on hot water side. plumbeer put exspasion
tank on hot water side above the tank. is this right? now the problem, only
2 people in house and can't take back to back showers without running out
of hot water. 80psi fron street to prv down to 60 psi 2nd plumber last week
installed a spring loaded ckeck valve after the prv. now i still don't have
enough hot water and now water coming out of the pop off valve when the
heater is filling or heating back up. what's the promblem.
AsktheBuilder
20 Dec 2007, 08:00
Darrell,
You need to check with the expansion tank manufacturer on its specific
placement. It sounds like your dip tube might have failed.
robert
28 Dec 2007, 07:13
I hear a loud whistling sound only when someone uses water in the house. I
do NOT have an expansion tank on the water heater. Can you explain what the
problem might be ?
AsktheBuilder
28 Dec 2007, 07:20
Robert,
Vibration that is happening in a pipe or valve body. It is caused by the
moving water.
sean
29 Dec 2007, 12:16
When my well failed I decided to hook into the city water. I just noticed
that my pressure relief valve has been going off sending out large
quantities of water. I suspect it's only after back to back showers.
Should I try addng an expansion tank first, or should I replace the valve
or should I replace the electric heater all in one go? The heater is
almost ten years old.
AsktheBuilder
29 Dec 2007, 12:45
Sean,
That is a tough call. I have seen some water heaters last 15-20 years! The
expansion tank should solve the blowout issues. I explain in a sister
column to this one why the water is blowing past the T/P valve.
jackie
24 Jan 2008, 19:40
HiYa!
We installed a new toilet a few months ago that doesn't have the
"ball-float" system, it's an American Standard Champion 4 system. Since
then, our water heater blows water from the pop-off valve. It's a unique
house and the drain in the basement only runs with a sump- pump. If we get
an expansion tank, will this resolve our issue? I tried turning down the
temp, and it doesn't overflow. But, it's lukewarm... I think that the
water used to release pressure through the lines to the toilet tank before
we installed the new one. I really appreciate your help. Thanks!
AsktheBuilder
25 Jan 2008, 06:16
Jackie,
An expansion tank will likely solve the problem. The old toilet valve might
have been the pressure-release point. As the water heater worked, it pushed
cold water past that valve. The new valve must be stronger and then the
weak link became the T/P valve. Just a hypothesis.....
Mike
27 Jan 2008, 15:41
My house has two 40 gallon hot water heaters that are connected serially
(the hot water output of the first one feeds the cold water input of the
second one). My assumption is that this should be treated as an 80 gallon
system and that I should put a single expansion tank (rated for 80 gallons)
on the cold water input pipe leading to the first hot water heater.
However, my neighbor also has two 40 gallon hot water heaters connected
serially and in his house there is one expansion tank (50 gallon capacity)
on the cold water line leading to the system and one expansion tank (50
gallon capacity) in between the two hot water heaters. Which is the
correct installation method and why?
AsktheBuilder
27 Jan 2008, 15:45
Mike,
Treat it as an 80-gallon installation. Why? Because you heated 80 gallons
of water. Your neighbor has sufficient tank capacity. Read the instructions
to see where they say they should be installed.
Fred Dresser
11 Mar 2008, 14:34
Is there any code mandating that the expansion tank be laterally connected,
or supported otherwise?
AsktheBuilder
14 Mar 2008, 07:46
Fred,
There may be. I tend to follow the written instructions that are produced
by the manufacturer.
Mark
23 Mar 2008, 06:47
i have a problem with hot water coming out of the cold water faucets
throughout my house. It happens throughout the day at any time. we need
to run the cold water for about 2 minutes to get cold. it is even coming
out of the chilled water dispenser of the refrigerator at a warm
temperature.
we have a oil fired boiler with a tankless water heater...(i believe that
is what it is called)...and this system is approx 5 years old. these
symptoms just started about 2 days ago.
do you have any ideas?
AsktheBuilder
23 Mar 2008, 08:18
Mark,
I have to admit, this is the first time in my life I have heard of this
exact problem. There have been plenty of times before, but there was always
a change to the system that was the root of the problem. The way you make
it sound, this started on its own.
I know how to stop it..... but that doesn't say why it happened.... You can
put a check valve on the cold water inlet pipe that feeds the water heater.
MAC
25 Mar 2008, 15:45
Can you install an expansion tank on the hot side of a hot water heater?
and if so would make sense to?
AsktheBuilder
26 Mar 2008, 07:38
MAC,
This is a local code question as well as one that is answered by the
expansion-tank manufacturer. You need to find out what both say and follow
those instructions.
Mike
30 Mar 2008, 09:56
I have a leak on the 90 fitting below the expansion tank.I have a shut off
valve above the tee that runs to the expansion tank. I will shut the valve
off then cut the copper and solder together new fittings. Will i have to
pump up the expansion tank again or will itkeep its pressure.
Thanks
Mike
30 Mar 2008, 10:25
What do i have to turn off to the water heater when i replace some of the
copper fittings that run to the expansion tank. I have shut off valve
above the tee that runs to the expansion tank. Is that the only valve i
have to close before i cut the copper.
Thanks
AsktheBuilder
31 Mar 2008, 15:59
Mike,
The answer is maybe.......
AsktheBuilder
31 Mar 2008, 16:00
Mike,
You need to stop and take a deep breath. Then go read all of my past
columns about soldering copper. Your answers are there.
Roberta
01 Apr 2008, 08:25
How long can I expect an expansion tank to last, what type of warranty do
they normally carry?
missy
01 Apr 2008, 17:59
There is a valve above a tee fitting that runs over to the expansion tank.
Is that the only valve i need to shut off in order to replace the tank
AsktheBuilder
04 Apr 2008, 04:57
Roberta,
It is common for them to last as long as the heater. What did you discover
when you went to the websites of the expansion-tank manufacturers?
AsktheBuilder
04 Apr 2008, 12:00
Missy,
Um, not really. That will shut off the cold water to the heater, but water
will backfeed through the heater to the fitting. There should have been a
separate ball valve on the branch to the expansion tank. Idiot
plumber....... Ball valves cost the same as a Value Meal.......
Al
10 Apr 2008, 11:01
I have a well pump set at roughly 60 PSI that is feeding a "dummy" hot
water tank (that I assume once heated water, but is now just holding cold
water--it has no electrical connection to it) that is in series with my
electric hot water heater. Can you tell me if the first tank serves as an
expansion tank of sorts? If this first tank eventually springs a leak, I
would guess it would be prudent to put an expansion tank in it's place? (I
mean schematically--the expansion tank would be much smaller physically).
Thanks for any input you can provide!!
had a pipe break due to my water pressure being at 90lbs, changed the water
pressure meter coming into the house also installed a new water heater,and
a expansion tank, the problen is that over night the pressure still builds
back up to 90lbs, what else can I do to bring down the pressure ?
Ms Lou
17 Apr 2008, 11:17
My expansion tank is leaking, it is upside down is this correct? I want to
know before I put in the other one.
Thanks
Mark
16 May 2008, 17:20
I currently have an expansion tank installed on the hot water outflow from
the water heater. Do I need to move this to the cold water supply line, or
will it be okay left where it is?
Ric
23 May 2008, 08:33
I removed an expansion tank and it was half full of water. Is this normal?
Can I drain the tank and reattach it or must I replace the tank?
I'm installing an electric water heater in my house this weekend. The house
always had an oil burner w/boiler but I've converted to wood heat and
removed the boiler. I have a drilled well with a large tank in the basement
which supplies my water thru a sediment filter.
My question is, do I need an expansion tank when I install the heater, and
is there anything else I need to install in the lines to the heater to
protect my water supply and the heater.
I'm not concerned with water hammer, I havent had an issue with it before
and my boiler was always cranked to the max hot water temp.
HELLO TIM,WOULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME
WHAT WOULD MAKE MY HOT WATER TANK SO HOT
IT SPRAYS WATER OUT OF THE TPV I REPLACED THE TOP THERMASTATE,AND TURN THE
LOWER ONE DOWN TO ABOUT 115. THIS IS AN 30 GAL ELECTRIC HOT WATER HEATER
AND IT STILL DOING IT.WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS?
THANKS TIM AND GOD BLESS
ROBERT
Doug
27 Jul 2008, 06:41
so the air valve on the end, is it for bleeding excess air for the proper
mix, or is it for charging air into it?
Paul
31 Jul 2008, 19:20
I recently had an expansion tank installed to correct high pressure
buildup at times as high as 180 psi after the water heater was running.
The plumber installed a tee fitting in the vertical cold water line and
about 12 inches of horizontal pipe out to the tank. He used a strap around
the tank to attach it to the wall but it is loose from the wall. The
weight of the tank is completely supported by the tee fitting. This sounds
like an accident waiting to happen. The plumber said that no water goes
into the tank and it was fine as is. Do I have reason to be concerned that
this is an accident waiting to happen and could break loose at the tee
fitting??
bobby
01 Sep 2008, 20:57
can I use an expansion tank on a drilled well system? how would it work if
my pump kicks on at 40 psi and off at 70psi and the expansion tank is set
at 45 psi?
Jim Mott
19 Sep 2008, 16:09
Is there such a thing as a HWH expansion tank thermal blanket for insulator
to reduce heat loss from expansion tank? Thanks
Stacy
09 Oct 2008, 11:40
A technician came to my home from a warranty company saying that he
couldn't install my new hot water heater which was covered until he
installed an expansion tank to bring my home up-to-code. Is this true?
Also, do I need an expansion tank when my entire house runs on electric?
Lastly, he was "trying" to charge me $75 for the expansion tank and $350
for a ball valve. Is that over priced and necessary? Thank you in
advance!
Jim C.
10 Oct 2008, 00:27
I have an expansion tank diagnostic question for anyone out there: My
expansion tank was built/installed in 1992 (I think, based on numbers on
the tank label). How long should it last? There is a schrader valve at the
bottom of the tank and I pushed the valve in very briefly and WATER came
out of it. Does this mean that the bladder/diaphram is ruptured? Thank you.
Peter
14 Oct 2008, 08:36
I have an existing 75 gal gas hot water heater. My system has a backflow
preventor and an expansion tank on the cold water side. Recently I needed
to replace my temperature and pressure valve because it was opened and gunk
got in the seat and it would not close completely. I installed a new T&P
valve and now I noticed that the system dribbles water from the t&P valve
everytime the heating cycle is on. I replace the T&P valve thinking it was
defective but it wasn't the problem is still occurring. Could their be
something wrong with my expansion tank? How do I check it for performance.
I opened the valve on the bottom of the expansion tank and water came out.
Is this correct or has the bladder broken?
Thanks for your help.
Anthony
05 Nov 2008, 09:13
I drained my hot water tank(50 Gal.elec)based on a recommendation to do
this periodically. I had no problems w/ the pressure or heating of the
water. After I drained it the pressure for hot water only, dropped to the
point that when I open another faucet the water in both just
trickle....i.e., no to little pressure. I checked the expansion tank outlet
and the fitting (cap over the valve) was loose. I pressed down on the stem
and a very small mount of air,minisule,came out. Any suggestions.
Thank you, Tony
Dan
15 Nov 2008, 08:50
I want a place hot water heater expansion tank, according to the article
the tank is placed in the cold line before the Hot water heater. Is that
correct ?
And do I have to shut down and drain the hotwater tank to install the tank
??
Rod
23 Nov 2008, 20:45
Need some help, I have a pressure relief valve on my water heater that is
probably working correctly. It currently has water dripping from it which
leads me to believe I may have a bad expansion tank. I had this same issue
a couple years ago and the plumber who install the system when my house was
built indicated that the expansion tank had gone bad. now it;d happening
again.I want to understand what causes these small tanks to fail. My home
is about 7yrs old. Also, how difficult is it to replace and is it
dangerious to replace?
Andy Ford
01 Dec 2008, 20:18
I recently installed a new 50 gal. gas water heater with an expansion tank.
Now hot water is back feeding to the meter and running up my water bill.
What are the most common causes of this problem?
Is it required to install a check valve on the supply line of a hot water
heater?Thanks
jim ralph
13 Dec 2008, 10:44
i installed expansion tank with 40 psi after completion i re checked psi it
was 100 psi why is that thank you
phil morris
16 Dec 2008, 09:16
hi there
i believe the expansion vessel has to be 'filled' before connection? and
that it shoudl be above the storage tank? (in the UK)
how does one fill it first?
thansk
tom
17 Dec 2008, 17:48
I'm in the process of buying a house at 9000ft in colorado that's very,very
cold.
Is there something I need to do to heat the expansion tank??
I have been in the crawl space, and they have old heating tapes all over
the place, and seems they have had freezing problems in the past.
will
23 Dec 2008, 08:28
I have 2 1/4 bathrooms. The hot water is consistently hot throughout the
whole house except in the master bathroom shower. The sink is o.k. Can you
tell me why?
Andrew
28 Dec 2008, 16:06
My house is fitted w/ an expansion tank (built in 2002) but the pipes
"bang" when the washing machines' hot water begins its' cycle. I tried
opening and closing the water valve for the washer but that had no effect.
What might be a solution- our pipes sound awful!!!
Donna
08 Jan 2009, 04:24
Hi, Wondering if you could help me. Water was pouring through my daughters
ceiling when a plumber attending he said it was the feeding expansion tank
causing the problem and that it was also over heating.
My husband wants to re do the tank but i would need to get a heating
engineer for the over heating side of thinks wouldnt i.
Is the tank easy enough to fit yourself or would it be a plumber that would
need to do this
Dennis Daniels
08 Jan 2009, 16:59
When installing an expansion tank should the installer place a ball valve
or shut off valve between the point of connection and the expansion tank
for easy replacement in case of failure?
gator
13 Jan 2009, 18:00
1)under what water pressures is it that i need to install an expansion
tank?
2)Can I just not install an expansion tank if I don't bother installing a
check valve, back flow preventer or a pressure reducing valve?
dennis roy
13 Jan 2009, 18:53
Expansion tank for a hot water tank
steve
17 Jan 2009, 09:15
I replace the exspanion tank on my water line three months ago...already
leaking at seam ???
Installed a new tank today...
shut off main, opened a faust, screwed new tank in and turned water back
on.
I had to remove the tank and reinstall since it was still leaking
slightly...second time, no leak and water running fine.
All the instructions about PSI/ pressure is a little confusing to a non
plumbler...
did I miss anything...
sure I check pressure...
Thanks for your help,
Steve
Larry
17 Jan 2009, 13:55
When I install a 5 gal expansion tank on a new heater, is it accepable to
put a galvanized "T" on the cold water inlet nipple and mount the expansion
tank above the heater (with the cold water entering from the side?
bob howard
19 Jan 2009, 07:52
Having problems with hot water heater. It makes a vibrating noise, the cold
line sweats, and it is dripping water out the overflow. Please advies,
heater is about 4 years old. I have replaced the expansion tank a year ago.
THANKS Bob
frodo
12 Feb 2009, 15:27
i assume that your grundfos circ pump is running all the time?
thats the reason you dont have enough h/w..your system is not meant to run
like that..the pump should only come on when you need h/m..what happens is
the stat gets
:fooled; by the hot watercoming into tank..and does not come on
have your pump hooked up to a motion sencer or tied into your lights,
Wayne
14 Feb 2009, 15:54
should the expansion tank be installed on the supply line to the heater, or
the line coming out of the water heater?
Ann
15 Feb 2009, 15:37
We have a gas hot water heater. About 15 months ago a plumber installed an
expansion tank to eliminate water dripping from all the faucets and showers
when the hot water heater was running. Now the dripping is back. What
does this mean?
I RECENTLY INSTALLED A NEW ELECTRIC HOT WATER TANK. AIR SEEMS TO BE
SPITTING OUT THE HOT WATER FAUCETS AT TIMES, LIKE MY WATER SUPPLY FROM MY
WELL WAS LOW.. I DO NOT HAVE AN EXPANSION TANK INSTALLED. IS THIS MY
PROBLEM?
I have a tankless hot water heater and am having work done in my bathroom.
The contractor says I have to have an "expansion tank" installed on the
tankless hot water heater. Is this true that tankless hot water heaters
need an expansion tank? What kind of maintenance do you need to do to the
expansion tank?
We got a safety inspection done to our water heater and ever since its been
leaking from the pipe TMP valve is attatched to. Plumber said that the
expansion is not working. But it was working fine ( i think because we
didnt have any problems) before he flushed water while doing his safety
inspection...would you say that he messed it up? I dont understand if
expansion tank was not working why wasn't it leaking before...
Thank You
Neha
Bob
21 Mar 2009, 15:53
I am replacing my water heater and pressure tank. The original expansion
tank is on the hot water side of the water heater, is this correct. All
the info says to place on cold side.
Can a hot water expansion tank be installed after the pressure regulator
and before a water softener?
armend
22 Apr 2009, 09:46
i have a tankless water heater in my house, the pressure is about 95 psi,
when the toilet or shower is used, then turned off, the pressure spikes to
110 psi, then the relief valve starts leaking. would a espansion tank on
the cold water side solve this problem??
thanks
DOUGLAS DESAINT
13 May 2009, 18:11
IM A LITTTLE CONFUSED ABOUT THE INFO I READ ON HERE PERTAINNING TO
EXPANSION TANKS DONT YOU HAVE TO PUT ONE ON A DOMESTIC BOOSTER PUMP AND THE
HOT WATER HEATER INLET SIDE AND IF SO ARE THEY THE SAME OR ARE THEY CALLED
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
meech
14 May 2009, 10:13
If the water pressure from the city line has increased, what the best
solution a pressure reducing valve or expansion tank? Increased pressure
causing pop-off valve to open.
Demetri
14 May 2009, 20:02
I replaced the cold water valve on my water heater in the process the
expansion tank lost some water.Could this be the reason that the pressure
relief valve is now releasing pressure when it was not before and how do I
rectify the situation?
what is the proper way to drain a hot water tank when you have an expansion
tank , will you lose pressure...
Vince
09 Jun 2009, 15:37
Hi,
My water heater shuts down. I 've replaced the tpr valve recently. When the
heater shuts down there is a little water released by the tpr valve. Could
this be due to a problem with my expansion tank?
Marc Staples
01 Jul 2009, 12:00
I have two water heaters. Do I need an expansion tank for each one?
John
17 Jul 2009, 11:18
I have a 119 gal storage tank
100 ft of 2 1/2 " copper pipe
100 ft of 1 1/2" copper pipe
100 ft of 3/4" copper pipe
On my system
65 PSI
Heated with a Raypak boiler
What should my expansion tank size be?
Steve
27 Jul 2009, 18:34
I had a plumber buddy install an expansion tank to eliminate pipe hammer.
He isn't too familiar with these tanks so I gathered info and relayed to
him what I had heard. He T'd off of the pressure relief valve(before the
actual valve) and I still have the hammering, typically when the washing
machine cuts on and off, mostly the hot water side. Is there a problem
T-ing off of the pressure valve?
Melissa Auxier
09 Sep 2009, 05:50
We just had a 2 gallon expansion tank added to our home when we were
brought up to code. (New water tank needed) I hear the pipes or the tank
under the house filling up or sounds like air bubbles feeding through it.
It can do it every 45 seconds-minute. Is it installed properly?
Mary DeSera
15 Sep 2009, 19:27
I live in a condo that had shared meters. 2 yrs ago we decideded to go to
individual meters.A 35 yr old commnity,Aqua charged us $500 a household to
install this and told us all we had to have expansion tanks,included in the
price.We never had problems and did we need expansion tanks? My plumber
told me today this was $10.plastic tank and aqua ripped us all off.It
actually took the guy and hour to install. So I figure aqua made $60,000.00
to install service and expansion tanks individually. ON top we get charged
a monthly fee to rent the meter@13.00 a month. Is this I should take up
with the BBB?
brian
03 Oct 2009, 20:56
my old tank is rusting, and i want to replace it but the old tank is
installed upside down will this effect the new one if i replace it the same
way?
Bert
05 Oct 2009, 17:13
Question: just installed the expansion tank on the cold water side off a
tee. want to also place a ck value on the heater lines.
would it benefit me to put one at the wall where the cold water comes into
the house to the heater or on the wall where the hot water comes out of
heater and goes to the house use??. had a issue where heavy use outside of
water, caused a flow out of the heater in the house?>? any comments on
resolve?
justin
19 Oct 2009, 08:28
My house is on well water and 10yrs old, the tank is weeping through a rust
hole. Do I really need one of these? My old house (20yrs old) did not
have one and since there is a huge pressure tank for the well it should
deal with any expansion.
STACEY
26 Oct 2009, 14:03
IF I HAVE 2 NEW 50 GALLON HOT WATER TANKS THAT ARE LEAKING WATER FROM THE
PRV, DO I NEED 2 EXPANSION TANKS? THANK YOU AND GOD BLESS!
Darren
25 Nov 2009, 06:55
I'm a private citizen having problem with a safety relief valve on my hot
water tank.
Vince
26 Nov 2009, 10:26
The problem that I have is everytime we use alot of hot water, like the
washer and doing dishes, the pressure relief valve leaks. The water heater
is only about 2 years old and this one has an expansion tank. I have
changed the pressure relief valve and still have the same problem. Could
there be something wrong with the expansion tank?
Cheri
03 Dec 2009, 07:14
I had a new water heater and expansion tank installed about two months ago,
now the tee fitting above the expansion tank is leaking and sometimes
making noice... could this just be a bad hookup or could it be a larger
problem like the plumber not installing the correctly sized expansion tank?
Any suggestions on how to fix it?
Den
22 Dec 2009, 23:50
Well,
if membrane fails, don't hurry to pay for a new tank. It will last another
5 years. As a permanent solution, hang the old one bottom up, connect to
Tee with a flexible hose, and this is it. Air cushion over the water level
is more reliable than any membrane.
Next, the less the pressure, the better, as long as "feet of water column"
match to house hight. You can add pressure with bicycle tire pump.
Math: empty tank= 0 atm = 0 psi
when you let system go, water comes into tank
half volume ~ 1atm ~ 15 psi
pressure=1/volume
iPhone!
half full tank ~ 2 atm ~ 15 psi
Den
23 Dec 2009, 00:00
Vince,
I had the same problem. System hypertension... Check pressure in expansion
tank, just like you do with car tires. If zero, follow my prev post
Frank Palleschi
29 Dec 2009, 07:02
You say the tee should be pointed to the sky, all copper cold water pipes
are attached to floor joices. what is my solution. Thank you
Please explain why you recommend installing the expansion tank above the
cold water line, never below it. I checked the Ruud ThermXGuard RRT-5
installatioin instructions; their drawing shows it below the line. I can't
see gravity having any affect on a water line pressurized to 30 - 60 psi.
You are absolutely right, neither gravity nor crap accumulation are
meaningful.
What "specialists" recommend is keeping water above the rubber membrane
inside the tank, and compressed air under membrane.
After afew years membrane fails, air escapes upward into the system, tank
fills with water, hangs on your tee pipe like a 50 kg of dead weight, any
volume expansion of heated water goes direct to your floor through pressure
release valve, and "specialists" get paid for "saving you".
What irecommend is not putting tank above or below, but to connect it to
tee via flexible pipe, like you connect your hot water faucet, and hang it
near, bottom up and neck down,
it is absolutely reliable regardless of membrane inside
Chris
03 Jan 2010, 21:14
I need to replace my leaky expansion tank and it had been soddered on
previously, is there any way to remove it and replave it myself w/out
damaging the pipes or should a professional take care of this?
John Chubb
10 Jan 2010, 07:32
I have a Zilmet expansion tank on my central heating. When I open the
valves to allow the mains supply to it, it will not increase in pressur eon
the guage. With another I have i a different building when I do this the
pressure rises until I close th mains supply valve, why is this happening.
I trued to bleed the aire from the bottom of the vessel, was this a
mistake. This was only after my other tries at getting hte pressure to
rise had failed.
Thanks.
John Chubb
Shayej
20 Jan 2010, 04:19
Hi,
i'm making an experimental rig (setup) where i need to use something to
depressurise the system without releasing it to atmosphere. can expansion
vessel be used as pressure release system the setup?
My expansion tank is leaking at the connection. do I need a new tank, or
just reapply some new teflon tape and screw back on?
Tommy
25 Jan 2010, 15:53
Can I install the expansion tank directly to the cold water side of hot
water heater and tee the cold water supply line to the tank? The expansion
tank would be in the vertical position and the hot water heater will be
able to support the weight of the expansion tank.
Sarge
25 Jan 2010, 20:14
I just installed a new hot water heater. I put the old expansion tank back
on and the pvc going to the tank burst. I do not have the opertaing manual
for the tank. Does it have to be pressurized while the hot water heater is
empty or full? Would not pressurizing it cause it to burst the pvc
connected to it?
tim_s
26 Jan 2010, 13:15
Received advice from plumbing isle employee at the big box store today,
that I should pressurize the expansion tank to 10psi ABOVE my home
pressure…..why would this be better/worse than matching psi’s? thanks
in advance!
Stephanie
05 Feb 2010, 09:28
According to the plumber, the bladder probably ruptured in my expansion
tank causing it to fill with water and be heavy and thereby crimping the
thick plastic (I think) line it was hanging from. He said it didn't matter
if I replaced it or not. That sounds wrong to me, but I'm not a plumber.
What problems may happen if I don't replace it and how likely are they?
Pam
09 Feb 2010, 11:06
My water expansion tank concetion tub burst, plumber came out said my psi
was over 120 what could cause this? is it easy to replace the tubing? it
this something that I can do or does this need to be done by a plumber?
also the regulator is not working the plumber stated, can I also do this
myself or do I need a plumber? If I can do myself were can I find a how to
fix for this?
mike n
01 Mar 2010, 21:55
i have a 40 gal hot water tank ( gas ) after showering and using the hot
water, the tank fills, just as the heat is about to shut off the
pressure/heat valve starts to drip, it does drip for about two minutes
after it is shut off, will this tank fix the problem?
Brad
13 Mar 2010, 09:47
Do hot water heater expansion tanks need recalibrated every year? The
company that istalled ours wants to come back and perform this service. I
do not want to spend money that is not needed. Is this something that needs
done?
Water Heaters - Expansion Tanks
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Comments
27 Nov 2007, 20:38
28 Nov 2007, 07:44
03 Dec 2007, 14:18
03 Dec 2007, 15:11
05 Dec 2007, 09:39
05 Dec 2007, 09:43
05 Dec 2007, 12:38
05 Dec 2007, 12:49
They can be added with no problems. It is impossible for me to give you an accurate quote. Besides..... the *seller* should be paying!
05 Dec 2007, 13:58
19 Dec 2007, 20:58
20 Dec 2007, 08:00
You need to check with the expansion tank manufacturer on its specific placement. It sounds like your dip tube might have failed.
28 Dec 2007, 07:13
28 Dec 2007, 07:20
Vibration that is happening in a pipe or valve body. It is caused by the moving water.
29 Dec 2007, 12:16
29 Dec 2007, 12:45
That is a tough call. I have seen some water heaters last 15-20 years! The expansion tank should solve the blowout issues. I explain in a sister column to this one why the water is blowing past the T/P valve.
24 Jan 2008, 19:40
We installed a new toilet a few months ago that doesn't have the "ball-float" system, it's an American Standard Champion 4 system. Since then, our water heater blows water from the pop-off valve. It's a unique house and the drain in the basement only runs with a sump- pump. If we get an expansion tank, will this resolve our issue? I tried turning down the temp, and it doesn't overflow. But, it's lukewarm... I think that the water used to release pressure through the lines to the toilet tank before we installed the new one. I really appreciate your help. Thanks!
25 Jan 2008, 06:16
An expansion tank will likely solve the problem. The old toilet valve might have been the pressure-release point. As the water heater worked, it pushed cold water past that valve. The new valve must be stronger and then the weak link became the T/P valve. Just a hypothesis.....
27 Jan 2008, 15:41
27 Jan 2008, 15:45
Treat it as an 80-gallon installation. Why? Because you heated 80 gallons of water. Your neighbor has sufficient tank capacity. Read the instructions to see where they say they should be installed.
11 Mar 2008, 14:34
14 Mar 2008, 07:46
There may be. I tend to follow the written instructions that are produced by the manufacturer.
23 Mar 2008, 06:47
we have a oil fired boiler with a tankless water heater...(i believe that is what it is called)...and this system is approx 5 years old. these symptoms just started about 2 days ago.
do you have any ideas?
23 Mar 2008, 08:18
I have to admit, this is the first time in my life I have heard of this exact problem. There have been plenty of times before, but there was always a change to the system that was the root of the problem. The way you make it sound, this started on its own.
I know how to stop it..... but that doesn't say why it happened.... You can put a check valve on the cold water inlet pipe that feeds the water heater.
25 Mar 2008, 15:45
26 Mar 2008, 07:38
This is a local code question as well as one that is answered by the expansion-tank manufacturer. You need to find out what both say and follow those instructions.
30 Mar 2008, 09:56
Thanks
30 Mar 2008, 10:25
Thanks
31 Mar 2008, 15:59
The answer is maybe.......
31 Mar 2008, 16:00
You need to stop and take a deep breath. Then go read all of my past columns about soldering copper. Your answers are there.
01 Apr 2008, 08:25
01 Apr 2008, 17:59
04 Apr 2008, 04:57
It is common for them to last as long as the heater. What did you discover when you went to the websites of the expansion-tank manufacturers?
04 Apr 2008, 12:00
Um, not really. That will shut off the cold water to the heater, but water will backfeed through the heater to the fitting. There should have been a separate ball valve on the branch to the expansion tank. Idiot plumber....... Ball valves cost the same as a Value Meal.......
10 Apr 2008, 11:01
13 Apr 2008, 08:40
It is not an expansion tank.
13 Apr 2008, 21:48
17 Apr 2008, 11:17
Thanks
16 May 2008, 17:20
23 May 2008, 08:33
27 May 2008, 10:55
My question is, do I need an expansion tank when I install the heater, and is there anything else I need to install in the lines to the heater to protect my water supply and the heater.
I'm not concerned with water hammer, I havent had an issue with it before and my boiler was always cranked to the max hot water temp.
28 May 2008, 16:11
WHAT WOULD MAKE MY HOT WATER TANK SO HOT
IT SPRAYS WATER OUT OF THE TPV I REPLACED THE TOP THERMASTATE,AND TURN THE LOWER ONE DOWN TO ABOUT 115. THIS IS AN 30 GAL ELECTRIC HOT WATER HEATER
AND IT STILL DOING IT.WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS?
THANKS TIM AND GOD BLESS
ROBERT
27 Jul 2008, 06:41
31 Jul 2008, 19:20
01 Sep 2008, 20:57
19 Sep 2008, 16:09
09 Oct 2008, 11:40
10 Oct 2008, 00:27
14 Oct 2008, 08:36
Thanks for your help.
05 Nov 2008, 09:13
Thank you, Tony
15 Nov 2008, 08:50
And do I have to shut down and drain the hotwater tank to install the tank ??
23 Nov 2008, 20:45
01 Dec 2008, 20:18
10 Dec 2008, 11:52
13 Dec 2008, 10:44
16 Dec 2008, 09:16
i believe the expansion vessel has to be 'filled' before connection? and that it shoudl be above the storage tank? (in the UK)
how does one fill it first?
thansk
17 Dec 2008, 17:48
Is there something I need to do to heat the expansion tank??
I have been in the crawl space, and they have old heating tapes all over the place, and seems they have had freezing problems in the past.
23 Dec 2008, 08:28
28 Dec 2008, 16:06
08 Jan 2009, 04:24
My husband wants to re do the tank but i would need to get a heating engineer for the over heating side of thinks wouldnt i.
Is the tank easy enough to fit yourself or would it be a plumber that would need to do this
08 Jan 2009, 16:59
13 Jan 2009, 18:00
2)Can I just not install an expansion tank if I don't bother installing a check valve, back flow preventer or a pressure reducing valve?
13 Jan 2009, 18:53
17 Jan 2009, 09:15
Installed a new tank today...
shut off main, opened a faust, screwed new tank in and turned water back on.
I had to remove the tank and reinstall since it was still leaking slightly...second time, no leak and water running fine.
All the instructions about PSI/ pressure is a little confusing to a non plumbler...
did I miss anything...
sure I check pressure...
Thanks for your help,
Steve
17 Jan 2009, 13:55
19 Jan 2009, 07:52
12 Feb 2009, 15:27
thats the reason you dont have enough h/w..your system is not meant to run like that..the pump should only come on when you need h/m..what happens is the stat gets
:fooled; by the hot watercoming into tank..and does not come on
have your pump hooked up to a motion sencer or tied into your lights,
14 Feb 2009, 15:54
15 Feb 2009, 15:37
02 Mar 2009, 18:49
07 Mar 2009, 20:00
12 Mar 2009, 08:43
Thank You
Neha
21 Mar 2009, 15:53
28 Mar 2009, 11:13
05 Apr 2009, 11:12
22 Apr 2009, 09:46
thanks
13 May 2009, 18:11
14 May 2009, 10:13
14 May 2009, 20:02
01 Jun 2009, 12:13
09 Jun 2009, 15:37
My water heater shuts down. I 've replaced the tpr valve recently. When the heater shuts down there is a little water released by the tpr valve. Could this be due to a problem with my expansion tank?
01 Jul 2009, 12:00
17 Jul 2009, 11:18
100 ft of 2 1/2 " copper pipe
100 ft of 1 1/2" copper pipe
100 ft of 3/4" copper pipe
On my system
65 PSI
Heated with a Raypak boiler
What should my expansion tank size be?
27 Jul 2009, 18:34
09 Sep 2009, 05:50
15 Sep 2009, 19:27
03 Oct 2009, 20:56
05 Oct 2009, 17:13
would it benefit me to put one at the wall where the cold water comes into the house to the heater or on the wall where the hot water comes out of heater and goes to the house use??. had a issue where heavy use outside of water, caused a flow out of the heater in the house?>? any comments on resolve?
19 Oct 2009, 08:28
26 Oct 2009, 14:03
25 Nov 2009, 06:55
26 Nov 2009, 10:26
03 Dec 2009, 07:14
22 Dec 2009, 23:50
if membrane fails, don't hurry to pay for a new tank. It will last another 5 years. As a permanent solution, hang the old one bottom up, connect to Tee with a flexible hose, and this is it. Air cushion over the water level is more reliable than any membrane.
Next, the less the pressure, the better, as long as "feet of water column" match to house hight. You can add pressure with bicycle tire pump.
Math: empty tank= 0 atm = 0 psi
when you let system go, water comes into tank
half volume ~ 1atm ~ 15 psi
pressure=1/volume
iPhone!
half full tank ~ 2 atm ~ 15 psi
23 Dec 2009, 00:00
I had the same problem. System hypertension... Check pressure in expansion tank, just like you do with car tires. If zero, follow my prev post
29 Dec 2009, 07:02
29 Dec 2009, 10:09
29 Dec 2009, 14:19
29 Dec 2009, 14:45
What "specialists" recommend is keeping water above the rubber membrane inside the tank, and compressed air under membrane.
After afew years membrane fails, air escapes upward into the system, tank fills with water, hangs on your tee pipe like a 50 kg of dead weight, any volume expansion of heated water goes direct to your floor through pressure release valve, and "specialists" get paid for "saving you".
What irecommend is not putting tank above or below, but to connect it to tee via flexible pipe, like you connect your hot water faucet, and hang it near, bottom up and neck down,
it is absolutely reliable regardless of membrane inside
03 Jan 2010, 21:14
10 Jan 2010, 07:32
Thanks.
John Chubb
20 Jan 2010, 04:19
i'm making an experimental rig (setup) where i need to use something to depressurise the system without releasing it to atmosphere. can expansion vessel be used as pressure release system the setup?
23 Jan 2010, 15:33
25 Jan 2010, 15:53
25 Jan 2010, 20:14
26 Jan 2010, 13:15
05 Feb 2010, 09:28
09 Feb 2010, 11:06
01 Mar 2010, 21:55
13 Mar 2010, 09:47
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