Step By Step
Door
Hanging
Instructions
Here
is a very quick tutorial
on some of the major steps you must undertake when hanging an interior
door. It isn't that hard. The best thing you can do to help is to make
sure the rough opening is square, plumb and in the same plane! If the
rough frame is twisted, you will definitely have problems hanging and
trimming the
door.
| Before you
start, make sure the
rough opening is slightly bigger than the overall width/height of the
door in its frame. I like to have a minimum of 3/8 inch extra. Use a
level and check the floor to see if it is out of level from side to
side. If it is out of level, you must cut off the bottom of one of the
jamb legs to insure that the door frame will be plumb. If you don't cut
off a leg, you will end up with a gap at the top or one leg will lift
off the
floor. |
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 |
This is what happens if you don't adjust the
jamb
legs in case the floor is out of level. Note the huge gap along the top
of the door on the right side of the photo. The hinge jamb is plumb in
this photo and both jamb legs are touching the floor. I must cut off
the right side jamb in this photo. You cut off the difference between
the gap at the left and the right gap. In this case, I had to cut 1/4
inch off the bottom of the right
jamb. |
| You
don't need a helper to hang a door. I always secure the hinge jamb
first to the rough opening. After I have made sure it is plumb and
before I drive the first nail, I open the door and slide a few shims
under the far end of the open door to keep the door from tipping out of
the opening. Once open like this, the door and frame are highly stable.
To test
the
door operation, drive one nail in on the other side of the door stop
opposite the top hinge. Be sure you leave enough of the nail exposed so
you can pull it out if necessary. Do the same opposite the bottom hinge
and carefully close the door to check the backside gaps. The door MUST
be attached to the rough frame at or behind the hinges for the best
results. Do this after you check the gaps.
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 |
Shims are used to fill the gap between the
door
frame and the rough opening. You should always use two shims at the
same time. They must be inserted so that the thin end of one is
overlapping the thick end of the other shim. Adjust them both to close
the gap. Be sure no drywall overhangs the rough opening. It will create
a false gap reading. As you nail the frame tight, it will compress the
drywall and the gap will be bigger than you
desired. |
| The
lockset side of the door must be shimmed in at least four locations.
You can see the top three in this photo. The hinge side needs to have
shims at each hinge if there is a gap at these locations. I always try
to frame the rough opening of doors in such a way that the hinge side
is always perfectly plumb. If you can attach a door to the hinge side
without shims, it is ideal. |
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Once the door has been nailed
in all locations and
you are delighted with the fit, it is time to cut off the excess shims.
It is important to use a sharp razor knife and to angle the blade in
slightly as shown so that no part of the shims extends beyond the face
of the door jamb. If this happens, the door casing will not fit tight
against the door frame. Cut slowly and carefully because razor knives
can cut to the bone. The voice of experience talking!
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