I HAVE A LOAD BEARING WALL THAT WE WILL BE TAKING DOWN WHICH PUTTING IN A NEW HEADER WILL WORK, BUT THERE IS A 12 ANGLE WALL WHICH IS LOAD BEARING ALSO BUT I WANT TO REMOVE IT SO THE SPACE IS WIDE OPEN DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS. ON HOW TO DO THIS>

Diane,
There is no need to scream...... :-> You need to get some help from a structural engineer. You are in over your head if you have to ask a question like this.

Quick question here,

I read your paragraph above about supports.

Are wall jacks with a 2X6 or 2x10 beam okay, or is a proper wall 3ft inside of the main the only way to go?

I have to rebuilt my basement exterior wall that was built incorrectly, and without being attached (ie top plate, bottom plate)and a mickey mouse cutout for an AC.

Thanks for the support!

Chris,
I would build a proper wall that is cross braced. Do NOT underestimate the loads you are dealing with. They are significant.

I have a new opening in my wall that is load bearing. I need to know if there is a fomula for the distance of the opening. I need a 6 ft opening, most have said 2,2x6 will be enough to support that span. What is your opinion.

Mechele,
There is indeed a formula once you know the loads on that portion of the wall. If you want peace of mind instead of the free unprofessional advice from the peanut gallery, then hire a structural engineer to do the calculation.

I would like to install a double pocket door to enlarge a dinnig area and sitting area for a more open concept.
however my ceiling joice are running the oposite way of wich i would like to make my opening how do i install a header for support

Dave,
Simple. Consider hiring a structural engineer to size the proper header AND give you a plan of how to install it. You could have MASSIVE concentrated loads at that location. Read all about that in my other Structural category columns.

Dave,
We're considering installing a 3-panel sliding glass door in the exterior wall of our home, overlooking our pool from our bedroom. The house is a typical slab-on-grade Florida tract house, with all exterior walls supporting the roof trusses, and wood framing behind a brick veneer. as well as a two-foot overhang with vinyl soffet. The builder used butted 2 x 12's across the top of all the existing wall openings (windows, doors). The widest existing opening is six feet (double-width windows).
1. Does one typically need a building permit for this type of modification?
2. Is this something a "weekend warrior" could eventually accomplish over the course of several weeks?
3. If not, could you throw a number at me as to what it might take to have it done professionally?
Thanks.

I meant to address my post to Tim. Sorry about that.
mk

Mike,
In my town you would need a permit. I can't answer #2 or #3 as there are so many variables..... Sorry!

Dave,
my husband and i want to install sliding doors to our home. the wall we want to install them on already has double windows that we will be taking out to be replaced with the sliders. we have been told my unprofessionals that this wall is considered a load bearing wall. but if the wall already has these windows, shouldn't there be support already installed ? and if not can support be added so that we can install our sliders?
thanks

Hi,

I plan to get a structural engineer but just thought I would ask here anyway.

We are opening up our basement into a grand room/living space. In any event, I think I found the supporting beams.

I found stacked together, 4 groups of 4-2x6's spaced approx 8.5 feet a part from each other.

There are some additional 2x4 frames that currently are in place that breaks the basement up. I want to take down most of the 2x4 frames but leave up the 2x6's that are stacked together.

Is it possible that these 2x6's stacked together are the supporting walls or do I need to keep the 2x4 stud frames up also(I really don't want the 2x4 frames)

Thanks for the quick input.

Hi There I have an open 22' X 15' space, and am looking to place a deck on the flat roof above the space, is there a specific length that the Load Bearing Wall Needs to be? Because I would like to keep the area open as possible, Or would an I Beam with Supportive Columns suffice?

Doris,
Dave got fired for giving out bogus answers. If your sliding door is the same width as the existing window, you are good to go. But if you need to widen the opening, you need to install a new beam with new columns or supports.

Jason,
Go to Google. Type in Structural Engineer Your City.

I have an created an opening of 53"L X 30"W in what used to be an exterior wall, to open living space into my kitchen (an addition was put on to the back of my storey and a half home).
What kind of support do I need to put in?

Maureen,
I have strong mystic powers, but not that strong. Can you tell me the exact weight above that opening? I didn't think so..... This is why you need to call in a structural engineer to size the beam, the supports and the bearing points.

I want to remove a 12" section of a bearing wall. The house was built 40 yrs ago and the bearing plate ontop of the wall studs are 2x4s. what is the best way to install the header and what size header should I use.

Bob,
It is not that simple...... I would need to visit your home to inspect it for hidden concentrated loads. Go to this column:

http://www.askthebuilder.com/B397_A_Load_Bearing_Wall_Can_Be_Deceptive.shtm l

See the photo of my Family Room? See that large framed opening to the left of the walkthrough opening? In the wall just to the left of that opening is a column that supports a beam that is probably carrying 4 - 6 tons of weight. What is happening above your planned opening????? This is why I tell people like you to hire a structural engineer.

Tim
Renovating 100 yr old 2.5 story house (9' ceilings), removed wallcovering from original outer wall (1 story addition added in past) beside & over hall opening, found second door opening & 1 3x12x6.5' king stud on left side of old doorway, 3 cut & floating studs over old doorway plus 2x4 spanning hall opening nailed to 4th cut stud & to intact stud on right side of opening. Total width of opening abt 6'. This wall supporting 1.5 storeys of brick (gable end), top plate sagging abt 3/4" over damaged area.

Plan to: jack (2 jacks & 3-4' 4x6 beam) top plate back in place (after cut 4th stud free) & install 3x 2x6x7' beam supported by existing king stud & 2x 2x6x6.5'(& first whole stud cut to 6.5) turn 5 cut studs to cripple studs to support upper floors.

Questions: Can 3/4 to 1" of sag be corrected in one go or better to ease up over 2-3 days?

Jacks will be within 1' (or on) of basement support beam. Sufficient support do you think?

Do you think 6x6 beam strong enough?

i have a room 18x20 with 2x6 rafters im installing a lvl beam 7x9.5 should im gonna use two jack studs is that enough

I have a load bearing wall with 2 door arches in it. I would like to close in one doorway and enlarge the other one by half it's current size. Any suggestions??

I want to open a load bearing wall that has atypical stud spacing. All studs go from the bottom plate to the top plate (10' ceilings). The opening will allow me to build in my electronic components and the opening opens the wall into a closet on the opposite side. The opening needs to be 18" wide. The as-built stud spacing is stud--7.25"--stud--13"--stud. Can I safely remove the middle stud without the typical header, jack studs, etc?

I would like to sink my fridge in the kitchen by cutting a hole behind it. This is a load bearing wall and I'd like to know if it can be done "easily".
On the other side of the wall is a closet that opens in the entrance.

Thanks

I have a house built in 1947 and in 1969 they built an addition/sitting room onto the kitchen. I want open up the wall between the kitchen and the sitting room. The current door opening is 3' wide. I want to install a support post at the door width and then open up the rest of the wall with a clear span beam (7.5' opening). The other kitchen wall is 8' away from this wall and the ceiling joists rest on this wall. The wall I am taking down used to be an exterior wall. I want to minimize beam exposure, so for a 7.5' clear span, how deep will my beam need to be for proper support? 2x6, 2x8?
Please advise. Thanks.

I am going to open a load bearing wall 1 foot further on each side. There is already a header in place for the current standard door size opening but it does not extend to the length that I need. What is the easiest way to go about this?

I want to build a loft in my garage, what size of steel beam would i need to span 19 feet and support the load ?