Part I - How To Build a Screen Porch - Frame and Square the Floor
Summary: Framing and squaring the floor of your screened porch is important for the construction that follows. Here is how to make sure you are ready for that construction.
Let's Go! It's Time to Work!
So - you made it through the building department maze. I know you are tired and your enthusiasm has been dampened, but let's get going. Now, before you get too far ahead, you need to realize that some things are going to be done out of order. In other words, you really have to think ahead. For example: we are going to partially frame the porch floor BEFORE we dig the foundation piers. We are going to possibly run some electric wiring BEFORE we even install the porch floor. We are definitely going to paint many pieces of wood an all sides and edges BEFORE we install them. I know this may slow down your momentum, but you will actually save time and money by doing these things.
A Simple Square or Rectangle
I sure hope you are going to design a screened porch that is somewhat easy to build. Squares and rectangles are the way to go for the DIY'r. Building the screened porch will be so easy if you just get the porch floor level and square. Both are easy to accomplish.
I assume that you are going to build a simple screened porch using a wood flooring assembly resembling a regular deck. This is the best way to go for a DIY'r. The first thing to do is to attach the band board or ledger board to the house. This board will support the floor joists (using joist hangers) as they project away from the house. Your local building code will likely address the attachment method. Here in Cincinnati, we have to use threaded through bolts. These are bolts that have a nut and washer on one end. Lag bolts, which are just giant screws, and simple nails can actually fail. A band board can pull away from the house if the nails loosen or the lag bolts gets over tightened and strips out. Through bolts require more work to put in but they are worth it. Be sure you layout on the band board BEFORE you attach it to the house where your floor joists are going to be! Otherwise, you may have a joist land on top of or next to a bolt head. If you really want to do the job right, determine where the interior floor joists are. Make your floor joist become extensions of the interior joists. This way the bolts can fall in between the centers of the joists on both sides of the wall.
Now, you must attach the two end floor joists to the band board. This will require you to hammer flat one side of a joist hanger. This flattened edge is nailed to the side or end of the band board. Be sure to use the proper joist hanger nails! Do not use roofing nails. Attach your outer rim joist or band board to complete your square or rectangle. To support the box in mid air, simply tack on some 2x4's to the joists. These 2x4's drop to the ground and can be placed on top of some scraps of wood so they do not sink into the soil. Try to get the box as level as possible.
Making it Square
If you want the roof, walls, and everything else to work out just fine, the floor of your porch had better be square. Square to a builder means that each corner is a 90 degree angle.
It is easy to square something. As long as the wood floor joists of your square or rectangle are straight (no bows), it will be easy to square. In addition, the opposing sides of the square or rectangle must be the exact same length. In other words a square box already has equal sides (10 x 10 x 10 x 10 feet). A rectangle would be say 12 feet on two sides and the other two would be 16 feet.
If you have accomplished this, take a tape measure and see what the diagonals measure. In other words, stretch a tape across the box corners to make two triangles. When the two diagonals equal one another, your box or rectangle is perfectly square. Brace the box to keep it square. You can figure out the diagonals mathematically if you choose. Just use the Pythagorean theorem (a2 + b2 = c2). The first way I mentioned works great. That is how we would square up walls we built every day in the field.
Read on to "Part II - How to Build a Screen Porch", where we tackle the "bones" of your structure.|
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Comments:
phil 30 Nov 2007, 12:54
Is there a technique to getting a floor square? i'm struggling to get mine
square. it is 96" length on all 4 sides but i am 136 and an eighth on 1
diagonal and 135 and a half on another. this is my 2nd day trying to get
this right and i'm not making any progress. thanks.
ATB 30 Nov 2007, 19:07
Yes! There is an article about the process here at my website. Just use the
handy search engine.
Bob in Illinois 02 Jul 2008, 20:37
Thanks for the info, Tim! I'm adding a porch to the back of my house,
replacing a concrete patio. I'm thinking of pouring a regular foundation,
not just posts in footings. Is that overkill?
lachase 23 Sep 2008, 22:59
We have a double layered concrete patio. Would it be reasonable to leave
the patio and build a screened porch over a portion of it, using post and
pier foundation to two outer edges just outside two sides of the existing
patio and then attaching to the house on the remaining sides? Any
suggestions?
Martin 31 Mar 2009, 19:19
Adding a porch to 1942 era native rock house (Texas). How can I attach to
the rock?
Philippe 19 Apr 2009, 06:12
I already have a deck build but I would like to build a sreen porch (with a
roof extension) while using the deck already build. Do I need to reinforce
the deck ?
jim treacy 28 Jun 2009, 06:58
do Inedd to put a railing on a screened porch that is 3 feet off the groud?
or can I use full sceen panels?
Joseph 08 Jul 2009, 23:02
I am going to build a screen porch with 8" round tapered support columns at
two outside corners and 6" squire columns elsewhere. Size of porch is
18x18. Carpenter will install double LVL over plate on top of the
columns.
Floor is floating concrete with foundation wall. Oversize footing. Question: Should I use steel column embedded in the foundation wall inside the column for added lateral load support. I can use plates to attach to the concrete at the bottom. But this approach would not give lateral support.
John 10 Aug 2009, 11:21
Hi Tim.Help! I was reading your instructions re a screened porch. I'm
having a problem building mine. When we bought the house there was already
a deck on the back which had 2 stairs to step down from the house to the
deck. (10x12) It was built over a cement slab & is sitting on cement piers
that look to be about 6" in diameter. A few years ago, we added another 12
feet onto this, making it 24ft. We had to put this part of the deck on
pre-cast piers on top of the ground because if we put a ledger board on the
house it would have been permanently blocking 2 basement windows.The deck
is about 24" from the ground & previously we had one of those metal gazebos
with a canvas roof on it. Then we decided to turn the whole deck into a
sun/screen room. Problem is, we have one part of the deck that is stable &
attached to the house & the other part is a floating deck. We cut part of
the aluminium siding away & lag-bolted 2 2x6x12 pressure-treated "header
boards ?"on the house for the roof joists. Then we realized that they were
undersized, took them down & put up 2 2x10x12 untreated boards. (this was
after we saw someone else had built their whole screenroom out of
non-pressure treated wood because it was all enclosed, so we figured since
it would be under the overhang & inside the screenhouse that it would be
ok. We should have just used pressure treated wood because we realized
after that that would be the only wood on the project that would not be
pressure treated. Sounds like poor planning, right? The ceiling joists will
be 2x8x12's 16" oc with about a 2ft overhang (deck is 10ft)plywood roof &
shingles (shed style roof) We want to put 7 4x4 posts bolted to the top of
10" cement piers (sonotubes), & mount 4x4's to the top of the posts for the
joists to be resting on. As the decks are already built & one is floating I
want to put the posts in front of the decks & secure the decks & roof
together so as not to have movement or frost heave. (I'm putting the piers
4ft deep)Do you think that if the deck is fastened to the roof posts from
the outside that it would be strong enough, & if I do this should I leave
the"floating" posts & piers there also as extra support or will they cause
movement? I have been going through many books & checking the internet
also, trying to do it right. There is a lot of advice for starting from
scratch to make one but next to no advice for something like this problem.
I would like to get it over with because between the rain & all the
problems it has become a big headache P.S. I don't have the space to put a
post hole digger under the deck & I don't think I can manage to dig all
these holes by hand.I was thinking of removing some of the deck boards &
trying to get the auger in that way, but the older deck already has what I
figure is undersized piers that will not be enough to hold up the roof.
Should I get rid of them & redo them with the 10 " piers? I hope this is
not too long & confusing.
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