Concrete Curing & Sealing Tips

By
©1993-2012 Tim Carter

        
Summary: Water can be concrete's worst enemy as it is being placed or finished. However, after concrete has been properly placed and finished, it is extremely critical that the moist concrete be cured. There are several ways to ensure that your concrete remains moist, and curing compounds are the key. To defend against freezing-thawing water damage that occurs in concrete, consider applying a sealant.

Related Articles:  Publications, Installation Guidelines, Snow and Ice

Curing Concrete - Critical!

Curing is the process of maintaining an optimum environment (temperature & humidity) around the fresh concrete for a specific period of time so that the concrete can achieve its designed strength and durability characteristics.

The chemical reaction that occurs when you mix water and cement is called hydration. This hydration is a two stage process. The initial stage happens quickly. This is the transformation from the liquid to the solid state. It can happen in less than four hours. After this, the reaction slows down. The reaction can continue for months and sometimes years! Crystals continue to grow and the concrete keeps getting stronger and stronger.

However, for this reaction to continue the concrete needs water! If the freshly poured concrete is left open to the atmosphere the relative humidity of the concrete will rapidly drop below 100 percent. The water is evaporating into the atmosphere. If the humidity level drops below 80 percent, the hydration reaction can actually stop. If this happens early in the life of the concrete, the concrete may only achieve half of its design strength!

Stopping the Evaporation

There are several ways to stop the water from leaving freshly poured concrete. You can cover it with burlap or other cloth and keep it wet; it can be covered tightly with plastic; or you can spray a liquid curing compound onto the concrete.

Liquid curing compounds are easy to work with. These products are basically liquid 'plastic'. They form a watertight barrier that prevents water from evaporating from the concrete. The use of water and burlap can waste huge volumes of water. Sheet plastic must be installed so that absolutely no air can get under the plastic. Wind can be a big problem. Curing compounds are the only way to go.

Get your Deicing Saltquestions answered in the AsktheBuilder Deicing Salt eGuide. Packed with Questions and Answers regarding the use of rock salt on its affect on concrete. Available now at the AsktheBuilder Store as an Immediate Download.

The key to using curing compounds is their immediate application once you have lifted your trowel from the concrete for the last time. Do not hesitate to apply these compounds! On sunny windy days, the water is leaving the concrete at an incredible pace. It is not uncommon to experience plastic shrinkage cracks in concrete under these conditions. The trick is to finish the concrete as quickly as possible and spray the curing compound right away. On large jobs, a separate person should be following behind the finisher and applying the curing compound as the finisher is working just ahead. Believe me, it is that critical.

Concrete Sealants

Earlier, we discussed the crystals that create concrete. If you could look through a powerful microscope at concrete, you would be amazed. It is far from a solid compound. It would look similar to a giant metal jungle gym that you often see in city parks, the steel bars being the needles of the crystals. Just like in the jungle gyms, there is free space between the needles of the crystals.

Water is easily absorbed into concrete that has a wood float or magnesium trowel finish. This is the type of finish that is most common on residential sidewalks, patios and driveways. These finishes are slightly rough for skid and slip resistance.

When water freezes, it expands. In fact, the volume increase is approximately 9 percent. Since water, in liquid form, is not compressible, this means that as it begins to freeze it pushes things out of its way. In concrete, the water and ice begin to push against the needles of the crystals. These needles break and fracture. Once enough needles are broken, the concrete begins to fall apart. The manifestation of this phenomena is spalling and pitting of the surface.

Deicing salts create the same problem. When the salts melt snow and ice, they create a saltwater brine which is absorbed into the concrete. Weird osmotic pressures build up inside the concrete as the salt brine solution becomes more concentrated. These pressures break the needles of the crystals as well.

What to do?

The best defense against freeze/thaw damage and salt brines is to minimize the absorption of these liquids into the concrete. There are wonderful sealants available that do just that. However, not all sealants can be used in all climates.

Certain sealants are comprised of a liquid in which millions of tiny solid particles are suspended.These sealants penetrate into the concrete surface. After the liquid evaporates, the tiny solid particles are left behind. These particles fill many, but not all, of the spaces between the needles of the crystals. Enough spaces are blocked so that water and other liquids can't squeeze into the concrete. However, water vapor that is in the concrete can escape from the remaining openings.

This is very important if your concrete is subjected to freezing temperatures. Water vapor which is trapped in concrete can build up, freeze, and break needles! Be sure to purchase a breathable sealant if you live in such a climate.

Certain common concrete sealants are not breathable! Beware!



Still Need Help? Type Your Keywords Here:
(examples: drywall repair, pilot light goes out, poor lot drainage, crown molding guide, etc.)

Comment on Facebook

Your Facebook friends would love to know how this column helped you solve your problem. Type a quick comment of what you discovered here at AsktheBuilder.com. Thanks!





Comments:

Welcome! I, Tim Carter, don't answer questions here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area, perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me, there is an option there for you.
ABDUS SALAM
08 Dec 2007, 12:13
I am a civil engr and working on sewerage project. The problem is the 14 days curing of Rcc sewers after manufacturing. if 14 days curing before laying is done than progress is effected. give me a solution which has no effect on strength.
AsktheBuilder
08 Dec 2007, 13:17
Abdus,
Sure, this is an easy one. I would instruct the team who *builds and pours* the concrete into the pipe molds to start working a month before the first pipe is needed in the trench.
mohamm arabpanahan
13 Mar 2008, 09:58
hello,i am the student of civil engineering in tehran poly technic (amir kabir university of technology).i am researching on the best domain of time of concrete curing and the new methods of its,also new instruments for done.i want you to give your ideas about them.thanks
Janette O'Brien
12 May 2008, 10:21
My family & I have moved into a new house in Sept of 2007, 1480 ft sq bunglow. the humity coming from the concrete is extremely high. How long would it take for the concrete to cure or dry. the dirt base around our house is very dense clay. the concrete was originally poured in march of 2007 and is still emiting 50% humidity in our basement. Is this normal.
thanks
janette
zafar
05 Jun 2008, 02:51
Hi ATB,

Pls would u be so kind to inform me of a method to adopt for getting the Consultant inspector to check our Curing after a period...would it be visual? or any other method. Only they have witheld our payment pending 'non conformance report' compliance.
brandon
27 Aug 2008, 16:07
I AM A FLOORING DEALER AND AM ALWAYS RUNNING INTO THE PROBLEM OF THE CONCRETE BEING TO WET TO LAY FLOORING MATERIALS DOWN. THE CONSTRUCTION COMPANY IS ALWAYS ON ME TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM. IS THERE A RULE OR LAW FOR CONCRETE COMPANIES THAT THEY HAVE TO LAY THE CONCRETE IN ACCORDANCE TO THE FLOORING MANUFACTURERS GUIDELINES? IS THERE SOME WAY TO PUT THE MOISTURE BACK ON THE CONCRETE GUYS AND NOT ME? I DIDNT POUR THE CONCRETE AND I DIDN'T CREATE ALL THE MOISTURE.ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS
Donna
14 Sep 2008, 20:34
How do you remove concrete curing compound for a autos paint
Laurie
06 Oct 2008, 09:30
hello,
Sat. we had 7 yrds. of concrete poured. (sidewalk) It was also stamped. We used a color hardener, and 2 other colors w/the stamps. After stamping, letting sit 24 hrs., washing off, we realize the color differs from the sidewalk we stamped 2 weeks earlier. The fresh concrete is darker, and doesn't have a whole lot of the terra cotta color, it has I guess "concrete" color showing through. How can we fix this? Can it be stained, or is it too early to apply stain? Or, do you have any other ideas of what we could do? I want to get it sealed b4 winter, but don't want to seal it till I can get it to match the sidewalk we did 2 weeks earlier. I can send pics if that would help. Please let me know what I can do.

thank you..Laurie
Mark Flanders
01 Dec 2008, 16:11
Hi Tim. I am a mechanical engineer and need to pour a footing for a dock's pier. It will be 3 feet by 6 feet and two feet thick, pinned onto granite ledge. The problem is that it will be exposed to air for only about 2 hours until the seawater comes in and covers it to about 4 feet deep. What sort of concrete or cement would be best and should I use an admix or sealant in the mix to seal it and/or speed setting time.
Thank you, Mark
Steven Weber
07 Dec 2008, 16:53
I am about to have a foundation poured in st. Louis, MO. What should be the minimum predicted temperature over the days following the pour. The foundation is 10' high and 12" thick.

     View all comments
*Name:
Email:
Notify me about new comments on this page
Hide my email
*Text:
Security Image:

Visual CAPTCHA


 
Remember, Tim Carter doesn't answer questions here in the comments. You need to go to the Ask Tim page.
 
Have a Suggestion?
Do it right, not over!

Ask the Builder Comment Help

Thanks for stopping by! The Comments Section of my AsktheBuilder.com website is a place for you to share stories about how you've solved a similar problem at your home or carry on a conversation with other visitors. I tried, at the beginning, to be part of the conversation, but there were too many questions being asked and it was impossible for me to keep up and get my regular work finished each day.

If you want to ask me a direct question, you should go to the Ask Tim page of this website.

Helpful Comment Tips: If you need help with a problem, please try these things now before you type in a comment. You could discover your answer in just minutes.
Don't show this alert again.