2x4 vs. 2x6 Exterior Walls

By
©1993-2012 Tim Carter

        
Summary: The size of studs used in exterior walls, coupled with additional insulation can be highly energy saving. You can determine the possible payback by understanding heating degree days.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are getting ready to build a new home. We want to spend as little as possible on heating and cooling fuel costs. 2x6 wall studs are two inches deeper than standard wall studs allowing you to add more insulation. How much does it really cost to increase the exterior wall thickness of a house? Is it worth the extra money? What else can we do to lower fuel costs? Karen V., Springfield, IL

DEAR KAREN: There are several things you need to consider when calculating the cost of increasing the exterior wall thickness of a house. The wall studs, top and bottom wall plates, insulation, and window and door extension jambs will all cost more money. Once you have calculated the total added cost, you need to calculate how soon you might receive a payback. The soundness of the investment depends upon where you live and how close you are to sea level.

You do not have to have a PhD in math to realize a 2x6 wall cavity has lots more insulation space than that of a 2x4 wall cavity.
You do not have to have a PhD in math to realize a 2x6 wall cavity has lots more insulation space than that of a 2x4 wall cavity.
Depending upon the size of your home, the cost to upgrade from 2x4 to 2x6 exterior walls can be significant. I decided to see what the cost would be for a simple 60 foot long by 30 foot deep single story ranch house. The added cost for the wall studs and top and bottom plates amounted to $300. Window and door jamb depth needs to increased with 2x6 walls. These extension jambs cost $575 in my example. The extra thickness fiberglass insulation added $145 to the cost. The total up-charge for my hypothetical house would be $1,020. Larger houses or ones with more exterior wall surface area, windows, and doors will obviously cost more money.

To calculate the possible payback you need to determine how much fuel you will save by increasing the wall thickness. This is a very time consuming and complicated process. Thankfully some scientists at the Building Research Council at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign have done this. The results of their research are fascinating.

The scientists discovered that two very important things impact the payback period on wall insulation thickness upgrades. The most important item is simple: How cold does it get where you live and how long does it stay cold? There is an accepted method for measuring this from one city to the next. It is called the degree day method. The meteorologists who work for the National Weather Service calculate this for each day of the heating season in your city.

Degree days are easy to calculate. You must determine the average temperature in degrees Fahrenheit for each day of the heating season. Add together the recorded high and low temperature for each day, and divide this sum by 2. Take this average daily temperature and subtract it from 65 degrees. The result is the total degree days for that date. As the weather gets warmer, you obviously have fewer degree days per day. When the average daily temperature is 65 degrees or more, you have 0 degree days for that date.

The scientists at the University of Illinois determined that if you live in an area that experiences 5,750 or more degree days per year, then it begins to make economic sense to switch to 2x6 exterior walls. The more heating degree days you have above 5,750 the faster your payback will occur.

Altitude above sea level also makes a difference. Those people who live closer to sea level experience a more rapid conductive heat loss through the air. Because the air is denser as you get closer to sea level, heat travels from air molecule to air molecule more quickly. For every 1,000 foot gain in altitude, 5 percent less heat is lost through conduction. This is one reason why solar energy houses work great in mountain areas and perform poorly in seaside situations. Houses at or near sea level need to be well insulated and tightly sealed.

People who live in the Sun Belt of the United States who tend to use air conditioners much more than furnaces face the same tough choices as you do. The cooler a person wishes the inside of their house to be, the more sense it makes to upgrade to 2x6 walls. A person who prefers an indoor temperature of 70 degrees F during the summer months will use considerably more energy than a person who can survive an indoor temperature of 76 degrees F. The added insulation that a 2x6 wall provides will allow the 70 degree house to achieve a much more rapid payback.

Probably the best way to save energy is to increase the amount of attic insulation. Heat loss is greatest through insulated ceiling areas. Consider upgrading your blown-in attic insulation to an R-value of 38 or higher. I have an R-58 attic insulation value in my own home. Windows and doors are the second greatest source of heat loss and heat gain. Purchase the best windows and doors you can afford. Look for ones that have the lowest air infiltration loss through the weatherstripping and the highest overall R-value. You should also invest in air infiltration barriers. These will block those toasty warm air molecules from escaping your magnificent new home during the winter months!



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Comments:

Welcome! I, Tim Carter, don't answer questions here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area, perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me, there is an option there for you.
Sherree Carter
21 Dec 2007, 22:00
Hi,
I was wondering if you have an opinion on the HurriQuake nail that is sold by Bostitch. Everything I have read about it makes me believe it would be the better choice for homeowners who are in states that suffer natual disasters....I live in Mississippi....we are about to begin construction on a home for my daughter and I wanted to use them. The extra cost for the nails is so minute compared to the benefits.
Thanks
Keep up the good work.
S. Carter
AsktheBuilder
22 Dec 2007, 07:30
Sherree,
That nail, or any one that has a larger head and thicker shaft, is a great idea. The nails I used to remove from older homes that I remodeled where much more substantial than many of the nails I would use to rebuild.
Jason Heleta
31 Dec 2007, 14:52
We're looking at buying a house about 40 years old. The size is approx. 1100 sq ft. Is it worth it to upgrade to 2x6 walls? Would you strap the existing 2x4 studs? Considering that we would want new siding fairly soon, and making a 400sq ft addition on the side with 2x6 exterior walls.
AsktheBuilder
31 Dec 2007, 16:33
Jason,
Read the companion column to this one that has the huge table of cities and the corresponding degree-day totals. Here is the exact URL: http://www.askthebuilder.com/B217_Extra_Wall_Insulation.shtml
Keith
03 Jan 2008, 11:41
Tim didn't tell you the whole story.

Going to 2x6 is not the most cost effective solution.

Just because you have a 6" wall cavity doesn't mean you get an R-19 wall.

All walls have framing anywhere from 25-40%. This framing thermaly bridges your cavity insulation.

So that 2x6 wall probably has an effective R- Value of about 15.

Your 2x4 wall using R-13 batts has an effective R- Value of about an R-10!

So the stud is the thermal bridge to the wall and no cavity insulation can help.

The simple solution is just put a layer of rigid board insulation on the outside of the wall.

A well insulated 2x4 wall with 1" (R-5)of rigid insulation on the outside will beat that thermally bridged 2x6 wall.

That's my take on it. I hope this helps.
AsktheBuilder
03 Jan 2008, 19:25
Keith,
Now, now....... Talk about someone not telling the whole story..... You have a dog in this fight as your email address tells the story. I will not share it with the world to protect the guilty. :-> Why don't you supply all of us with some independent test data to back up your statements?
Keith
03 Jan 2008, 20:03
Just a follow up note to justify my crazy ideas.
A link to an ORNL (Oak Ridge National Labs) study.
http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/NewRValue.pdf

I'll summarize.
"California Energy Commission demonstrated that framing factor for residential walls is close to 27%. The relevance of this finding is overwhelming.
Actual R-Value of a wall insulated with R-13 fiberglass batts is between 8.5 and 9.0.
This is a 35-40% reduction of nominal R-Value."

Thermal Shorts are real.
Making the thermally briged cavity bigger without insulating the framing is being short sighted.

Now a 2x6 wall with rigid insulation on the outside? Now you've got something!

Some other "independents" that can give you more scoop.
Try:
www.buildingscience.com
www.southface.org
www.eeba.org

http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/bp_insulation/article/0,2617,HPRO_20150_4243822 ,00.html

Guilty?
I'm just guilty of wanting a more energy efficient world.



Bob Detomasi
20 Jan 2008, 05:48
2X4 studs also carry sound waves from the outside wall to the inside wall, just like a drum. A solid foam board
between the walls and the studs will help reduce sound conduction. This approach also works on interior walls and cielings.
Daniel
14 Mar 2008, 19:45
I think Keith have a point, just read an article in L.A. Times yesterday that a couple used cement boards for siding of a house they constructed(architect couple) only need to use air condition one week a year. Though I am not sure how they can do it because there are tons of big windows in the house. Here is the article link
http://www.latimes.com/features/home/la-hm-choy13mar13,1,4503634.story
Mike
19 Mar 2008, 14:18
Tim (et al.),

I was curious about the foam board and stucco.

I'd like to do conventional stucco finish. Where does the foam board go in that setup? Or is it not worth it if you use cement board?

I thought a pdf on USG's website had a good picture of a stucco layout (among exteriors). I realize they are trying to sell their products though. Fiberrock just seems like it would be less substantial/sturdy than cement board to me.


Exterior Substrate Comparison (from USG - PDF):
http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/Documents/System _Catalogs/SA700.pdf

PDF Parent Page:
http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/Documents/System _Catalogs/

Thanks,
Mike

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