Thickness of Poured Concrete Foundation Walls
Summary: Poured concrete foundation walls come in all sizes, thicknesses, heights and widths. As concrete gets taller, it must get thicker. All of these dimensions are interrelated.
DEAR TIM: How thick should a poured concrete foundation wall be? Is it a function of the size of the house? Bob McKnight, Hagerstown, MD
DEAR BOB: The answer, although fairly intuitive, is not as crystal clear as you might think. As a poured concrete wall gets taller, it needs to be thicker. But there are many other variables that control the thickness of the wall. A structural engineer would consider lateral loads as well as loads from the structure above. Even concentrated loads from columns and beam pockets within a wall must be considered.
To add further confusion, you also have to factor in reinforcing steel. Steel bars that are incorporated into poured concrete add enormous strength to the wall system. The placement of the steel is critical depending upon how you are trying to strengthen the wall.
For example, if soil loads are significant and a house is built into a hillside, vertical reinforcing steel is a must. The pressure of the soil creeping down the hill can cause a foundation wall to develop a horizontal crack much like when you snap a saltine cracker in half with your fingers. Vertical steel bars of a given thickness spaced a distinct distance apart and placed at a precise place within the wall can help ensure the wall will not fail. Structural engineers know exactly where the steel needs to be and how much to include.
There are some basic rules of thumb for foundation wall thickness and these are outlined in many modern building codes. Poured concrete foundation walls that are less than 8 feet tall and have soil outside that is 6 or 7 feet deep against the wall can often be 8 inches thick and function quite well. As soon as you go higher or have greater depths of soil pushing against the wall, you need to increase the thickness to 10 inches.
Don't forget that the concrete comes in different strengths depending upon how much cement is added at the ready-mix plant. I would use a minimum mix of 3,500 pounds per square inch(psi) mix. You can upgrade to 4,000 psi concrete if you desire, but I would only do this if it was specified by the structural engineer.
One last point: Remember that the specifications in the building code are minimum standards. You can always improve upon the guidelines you see in the code.
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Comments:
andrew logan 13 Apr 2008, 23:28
What is the method of bracing/shoring a 20" wide 40" tall footing. So that
it does not fail when the concrete is poured. Are there any standards for
wire ties, bracing, etc.
Claude Ezzell 31 May 2009, 20:50
I have an interesting situation in a custom home that I bought here in
Arizona. When they were forming up for the pre-tension slab foundation I
noticed that they had placed a cardboard box around the drains for the
master bathroom and filled these boxes with dirt and then poured the
concrete around the box. I figured that they would make any adjustments to
set the tub and then pour concrete in the box around the drain pipes. I
called the builder to see what we could do and he assured me that the slab
was perfectly solid. A neighbor down the street had to have his tub removed
and discovered a gaping hole in his slab with his drain pipes sticking up
through the middle. With this in mind I drilled a 1 inch portal hole
through the adjacent wall and inserted a small camera with a light source
and what I saw was a rectangular shaped mound of dirt in the shape of a box
around the drain and what appeared to be termite tracks leading towards the
wall. My question is a simple one is this normal building practice to not
pour the concrete around the stubbed up drain pipes and does this leave the
integrity of my slab in question since it is a pretention slab?
Regards: Claude Ezzell
TODD 11 Jul 2009, 13:56
I have an existing 2 car garage, that has no real foundation or
footing.When it was built 50+ years ago they placed the bottom sill on the
dirt.Eventually the sill rotted away......i don't want to demo the garage
to pour a foundation, footing....so i was thinking if it would be okay to
pour one side at a time.I know it"s not recommended but i will be
reinforcing it with lot's of rebar.
I guess my real question is...How deep should my footings be ? I was thinking 12" inches wide by 12" inches deep with 6" inches of gravel underneath and rebar running through.Concrete will have fibre mesh embedded in the mix.I forgot to say that the garage is 23 ft. by 18 ft.I"m a real great diy. guy, but i need a little advice.
jake cortez 06 Feb 2010, 20:26
i had a project for enclosure of industrial building...my question is, how
can i compute the dimensions for foundation considering the 4000psi soil
bearing capacity of soil?...i cant undergo computation without the live and
dead loads of roof and floor...how can i compute that sir??
Greg 04 Jul 2010, 06:56
I am having a contractor build a home in upstate New York. He had a
subcontractor pour a cement foundation in forms. The building plans call
for 3000 psi.
My question is: how can I assure that the foundation meets the requirement of the building plans? Is there a test that can be conducted to test the foundation and if so how much would it cost?
Hans Geist 17 Jul 2010, 08:51
I was wrong on that last question i posted. I talked to my husband and I
was off several inches on everything. Let me re-ask the question..
So my perimeter footings are 16"x16"(plus 5" of slab on top) and the central footings are about 12"x12"(plus 5" of slab on top). This is all about 10" into the natural ground. Do you think THIS would support a second story on one side(from the perimeter to the first of the 2 central footings)???? View all comments |



