Water Heater Anode Rod

Hi Tim your comment about the anode designed as a water inlet and sacrificial anode combined does not exist. What does exist is a anode designed with hot outlet and anode attached. Please reply if I'm wrong

Hello Tim:
First time writer. Two questions.

1. I noticed your pieces on tankless water heaters are fairly old. Hasn't the technology improved a lot in the last 2 years? Do you still feel the same way as of March 09?

2. I noticed on your video about traditional hot water heaters that you had written on your own heater that a new or second anode had been installed several years after the initial heater installation... therefore I presume it is of benefit to do so even after the heater has been in use? Does this improve the heaters life expectancy even after initial installation?
If so, I would like to install a secondary anode to my traditional heaters that are only three years old. What say you, worth it? -Mark

this is related to the anode issue. the connection for the cold water intake has leaked a bit and created mineral build up on the outside. although I tightened the connection, it began leaking again; I tightened again and went to Home Depot, suspecting something other than simple leak. Seems there's something called "galvanic corrosion" created by joining two dissimilar metals (e.g. copper pipe and steel water heater tank). I bought a set of two dielectric heat traps (galvanized steel lined with plastic) to replace the hot and cold water connectors and hope to extend the life of this now 11-year-old water heater. Wish me luck.

Hi Tim, et.al.,
I used to be in the WH business, and now I'm in the anode business. The accessory anode rod that Tim writes about is indeed actually a combo HW outlet and anode rod, as mentioned by mike kennedy.
This can be purchased and installed in your WH only if the original hot water outlet is just a nipple. The easiest way to determine this is to stick a screwdriver down the outlet (taking all safety precautions, of course). Or, you can look to see if there is an anode label on the top of the water heater.
At that point, you can replace the existing anode (need a 1-1/16" socket), or disconnect the HW outlet and add the combo anode.... or do both!
To Wendy: yes, beware of galvanic corrosion! One way to determine the condition of the tank is to pull the anode rod and inspect it. WH mfrs actually write this in the manual(you have to look for it, though). I suspect that your 11 year old WH is ready to go. The dissimilar metals are usually protected by the anode. But, once the anode goes, the dissimilar metals are the next point of cathodic protection. According to insurance industry surveys, most WHs average only 10.7 years.... so, you're close!
I recommend buying a new tank (add a drain pan!), and maybe putting in the extra anode now, before the old tank leaks. If you want, you can keep the old tank, but make sure there’s a drain pan under it, and a water leak sensor next to it!
Good luck!

My HW tank is from a well and produces the "rotten egg" smell,from the reaction of minerals, to I guess the anode rod. What can be done to fix this? No problem with the well, its been tested. Cold water is fine.