Water Saving Toilets Installation and Manufacturers

Almost three months ago, I was involved in an inspection. A homeowner hired me to look at some problems in their year old home. They had numerous complaints. The main reason I was there was to determine the source of water which was pouring through their brick walls.

At one point in our discussion, the homeowner indicated how frustrated he was with the whole house. He even mentioned his dislike of the toilets! Evidently, the toilets required more than one flush to rid themselves of waste products. The homeowner was dissatisfied. His problem was the inspiration for this column and bulletin!

Interesting Facts

Once I started doing my research, I found out some very interesting things. Older toilets used up to 5 gallons of water to flush. Not only that, they used additional water as the tank filled. Engineering requirements were at a minimal since there was so much water to do the job.

Further research found that the siphon and swirl action of toilets was an engineering innovation that helped to clean the bowl. Toilets made prior to WW II didn't have this feature. The water would rush straight down from the bowl rim. As a plumber, I have serviced many of these straight flush toilets.

Furthermore, the more water that sits in the bowl prior to a flush, the more energy is required to replace this water and get it moving towards your sewer or septic line.

Water Shortages

Water shortages in the mid 1980's in various parts of the country caused local officials to institute water conservation measures. It had long been known that toilets consumed the greatest amount of water each day in the average home. The pressure was on to reduce this water usage. Regional changes in the plumbing codes caused plumbing fixture companies to create low flush toilets. These dudes only were to use 1.6 gallons of water per flush. The manufacturers weren't prepared.

Big Changes

Two things immediately changed in the toilets: the quantity of the water in the bowl and the size of the trapway in the bowl were reduced. This led to two problems: the water 'spot' or surface area of water in the bowl shrank and solid matter was more prone to clogging in the bowl. The manufacturers had to play catch-up baseball. Their engineers started putting in some long nights.

The reduced amount of water per flush also brought another problem: less energy. 1.6 gallons of water dropped from the same height as 5 gallons can only perform about one-third the work. Yikes!!!!!

Click here to watch a video on how a toilet works.

Using Available Resources

Every plumbing system I'm aware of uses pressurized water lines to get the water to your faucets and toilets. A few engineers thought to use this available resource. They designed a simple tank which begins to fill with water. Soon the pressure of the waterline can force no additional water into the tank.

The tank now holds a certain volume of water (never more than 1.6 gallons) and pressurized air. As soon as the tank lever is pressed, the water is rapidly forced from the tank into the bowl. It has lots of energy. You have seen this happen at most commercial bathrooms. The result is dramatic. Water and waste are jettisoned into the sewage system.

Function vs. Form

The toilet company engineers have been working hard to match the performance of these pressure assist devices. They are making progress. We are now in the third generation of low flush, gravity 1.6 gallon toilets.

Both toilets have their pluses and minuses. The gravity flush toilets are quiet. They often have a sleek profile. The pressure assist toilets make a brief loud rush of noise. They get the job done. They are available in a wide range of designs, both one and two piece.

The good news is this. If you have a poorly performing 1st generation toilet, you can possibly retrofit a pressure tank to make it work properly.

Water conservation is important. Take your time to acquaint yourself with the two types. See which one will work best for you. Time will continue to supply us with better models.

Manufacturers of Water Saving Toilets

Because of building and plumbing code changes virtually every toilet manufacturer has a water saving toilet. Those that don't can't sell here in the USA! As you would expect, each manufacturer has several different models. Most manufacturers have gravity flush and pressure assist flush models. There are pros & cons to each one. If you want to be assured of great flushes, choose a pressure assist model. If you don't like the sound of a commercial toilet and want to gamble on sewer clogs, choose a gravity model. The pressure assist mechanism that virtually every toilet manufacturer uses is made by the same company. It is called Flushmate which is a division of the Sloan Valve Company. If you want some great literature on this pressure assist system, call 800-875-9116. Often you can retrofit an existing poor performing gravity toilet with the Flushmate pressure assist device. There may be no reason to buy an entirely new toilet! Consider calling the following manufacturers for fantastic literature & distributors in your area.

• American Standard 800-524-9797 x100
• Briggs Industries 813-878-0178
• Eljer Plumbingware 800-42-ELJER
• Gerber 708-675-6570
• Kohler 414-457-4441
• Mansfield 419-938-5211
• Peerless Pottery Sales 866-457-5785
• Universal Rundel 800-955-0316

Comparison Study

As you might expect there have been comparison studies done on these toilets. The best one I have seen was in the February 1995 issue of Consumer Reports. I encourage you to get a back issue or visit your local library. This particular study was extremely thorough.

Every imaginable thing that could be compared between manufacturers was compared. There is even a chart which illustrates possible payback periods based on water costs and usage. This study is a must see if you are going to replace all of your toilets or are building a new home.

Installing a Residential Toilet (A piece of Cake!)

A Creampuff

Toilets are intimidating plumbing fixtures. Just look inside one. What about the mysterious connection at the floor. Oh, don't forget, there is the supply tube you have to bend just so. Time to call the plumber? Not so fast! You can do it. Toilets are simple.

Connection Components

Residential toilets connect in almost all instances to a 3 inch drain line. At the floor level, this drain line converts to a toilet flange. This flange is basically a flair fitting that does two things: It provides a way to make a positive air/watertight seal and a way for you to bolt the toilet to the floor. The flange must be a certain distance away from the back wall if you want your toilet to fit snugly against the wall. The standard measurement for most toilets is 12 inches. If a floor joist is in your way, you may need to go 2 inches in either direction (10 or 14"). If so, you would need an a special toilet bowl. Beware, as these are usually much more expensive. If faced with this situation try what is called an offset flange. It may allow you to use a standard 12" toilet.

Click here to watch a toilet flange installation tip video.

A Dry Run

I always want my toilets to be level. As such, I uncrate the bowl (the tank and the bowl are two parts - unless you have a 1 piece toilet) and simply set it on the flange. Do not use the wax gasket at this point (don't worry, I'll explain)! Set your level across the bowl side to side and front to back. Using shims if necessary, make the bowl level. Gently lift the toilet off the flange keeping the shims in place.

The Wax Gasket & Bolts

A wax gasket is used to make a permanent seal between the flange and the bottom of the toilet. Without this gasket, sewer gas or wastewater would flood your house. They come two ways: with and without a plastic horn. The horn is a simple funnel which directs the wastewater into the flange. I always get a gasket with a horn. Place the gasket onto the flange pointing the horn down into the flange. Now install the new closet bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. Take the bowl, straddle the flange and guide the bowl onto the gasket and the bolts. Be careful!! You only get one chance. Use a friend to help guide you or to position the bolts. The toilet will hit the gasket and seem to rock. Gently push the toilet down to the shims trying to keep it reasonably level. Attach the necessary trim washers, brass washers, and tighten the nuts. Remember, you are tightening against glass so don't go crazy and overtighten!

The Tank

This is the easy part. Reading the toilet instructions you will see that two or thee bolts, rubber washers, and brass nuts hold the tank to the bowl. There is a foam washer that fits on the bottom of the tank to provide a seal to the bowl. This is easier than a kid's erector set. As you tighten the tank bolts, be sure to level it. It is a breeze.

Supply Tubes

If chrome supply tubes make you pull your hair out, why not use a PVC tube? They bend easily. In either case, once you have the tube attached loosely at the bottom of the toilet and in the valve, tighten the nut up at the tank first. Now, make sure that the tube is leaving the valve squarely. If the tube is at an angle, there is a very good chance you will have a pin hole leak once the compression nut is tightened around the o-ring. This connection is the toughest to make, so take your time. If all goes well, there will be no leaks. However, leaks at compression fitting sometimes show up hours or days later. Put a paper towel under it and check it periodically.

Grout

Finish the installation with tile grout. Fill the space between the toilet and floor with grout. Grout up to the shims. Let this grout dry, remove the shims and grout the remaining holes. Total toilet project completion time: 1 to 1.5 hours!

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