DEAR TIM: I just had a rubber membrane roof put on. Half my roof was stripped and plywood and insulation board were put down. The other half of the roof was scheduled to be worked on two days later. Before leaving my house, the contractor put a tarp down to protect the unfinished work.

That night the wind blew away a big piece of the tarp and the insulation board and plywood got rained on. The next day it was windy and overcast. When the contractor proceeded with his work, he said everything was dry as a bone and he put the rubber membrane on top of the insulation board and plywood. The amount of rain was enough that the water came into my kitchen. It had rained most of the night when the tarp had blown off.

The roof is now finished, but I know that some of the plywood and insulation board had gotten wet. The roofer used his tools to pry up the pieces of plywood to allow the space under the roof to dry. However soon after this was done the rubber membrane was applied. Do I have any reason for concern? Rachel A., Norfolk, VA

DEAR RACHEL: Believe it or not, rain-soaked roof sheathing can dry pretty quickly if exposed to some breezy wind conditions and even moderate sunlight. I have seen dew-saturated plywood dry within 45 minutes in the right conditions. My experience tells me the roof sheathing was probably just fine as the work continued.

But the insulation under the plywood should be the concern. It could take days to dry. Now that the roof is covered with a rubber membrane that completely stops the movement of liquid water and virtually all water vapor, I would have a heightened level of concern if I were you.

The first thing to do is try to open up the ceiling in the kitchen to inspect the hidden cavity. See if the insulation is wet. If you discover moisture, take videos of the wet material and take plenty of photos to document the damage. I also suggest you do this in the presence of a disinterested friend or neighbor who will be able to sign a sworn affidavit at some future time. I am afraid to tell you that the entire ceiling needs to be opened up so the ruined insulation can be removed and the framing allowed to dry.

I would then call the roofing company and see what they will do to assist you to repair any damage, even if you just have to patch a small inspection hole. If you meet a little resistance from the roofer, ask for a certificate of insurance.

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Actually, you should have had this important document in your possession before you accepted their bid. A certificate of insurance proves that a roofing company has a valid liability insurance policy. Obtaining this proof is very important anytime you hire a contractor to work on your home. Never feel ashamed or embarrassed to ask for this document. Remember, it is your home and you want to know that damage to it will be paid for in the event of an accident or poor workmanship practices such as improper attachment of a tarp.

While the roofer had great intentions covering your unfinished roof with a tarp, Mother Nature thought he was building a sailboat. Tarps that are not expertly secured can become giant sails in a gusty rainstorm. If the wind gets a purchase under one corner of the tarp, it can tear loose in short order. Imagine what would have happened if it rained for days and you lost all of the ceilings in your home? Believe me, this has happened to many people.

If the roofer gives you any trouble whatsoever, you should write a detailed letter to the roofing company telling them you have grave concerns about trapped moisture under the roof. Include a truthful time line of all of the events. Just state the facts. Do not editorialize or state things you think happened. Just state exactly what you know to be fact.

Reference the amount of rainfall and all facts including the loss of the temporary covering. Show photos of ceiling damage and the one you sent me. The roofer obviously was concerned about moisture under the wood since he is making an effort to get air under the wood by using his tools to lift up the edges of the plywood.

The letter you write to the roofer or any other contractor is part of the paper trail that is vitally important should the situation enter the legal arena. Attorneys, judges and juries love to see written correspondence.

If you want fantastic protection of your rights, the letter needs to contain a very important sentence at the end. I would write something like this:

If you disagree with any of the facts or the timing of the events that I have referenced above, please respond to me in writing within 10 business days. Be sure to include documentation that supports your statements and clearly shows that what I have presented above is in error.

The insurance company needs to be sent a copy of the letter to put them on notice of a possible claim. These letters need to be sent to both companies via certified mail with a return receipt being sent to you. Keep these very valuable receipts.

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Comments: Welcome! I, Tim Carter, don't answer questions here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area, perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me, there is an option there for you. Phil Denny 06 Dec 2007, 13:27 Tim, I just had a rubber roof installed and my concern is that the rubber is not bubble free. I live in Michigan and the temps are 20-30's now. Will the rubber contact in the spring and summer to be less bubbly? Is this common? Should I be concerned? Phil AsktheBuilder 06 Dec 2007, 14:04 Phil, If anything, the bubbles would get worse as the roof expands in hot weather. Contact the rubber roofing factory rep and have him inspect the installation. krissy stokes 20 Dec 2007, 15:09 I have a flat roof that is leaking. The rubber sections seem to be leaking at the seams where they meet. It is currently raining so I've covered the area with several large tarps, duct-taped around the edges. When it is dry weather again, how should I proceed? Please give me a money conscientious answer as I am a full-time student and will be completely broke for another 2 years. (replacing the entire roof is not financially possible) Thanks for your advice. AsktheBuilder 20 Dec 2007, 15:37 Krissy, You have asked for the impossible. There are no less than 10 variables. You need to call a real professional who deals with rubber roofs week in and week out. buddy baker 22 Dec 2007, 06:03 We are building a large add. that has 12sg of deck which is all storage underneath and we want to do rubber but can't find any web sites for colors any HELP AsktheBuilder 22 Dec 2007, 07:38 Buddy, Keep looking. Visit a local business that sells rubber roofing and ask if they have ever seen what you want. NANCY 07 Jan 2008, 20:01 I had a rubber roof put on my enclosed porch two years ago and this year we had very bad high winds and it ripped it off. The contractor put a new one on, however, under the underlayment was wet and had been freezing and thawing. What could cause this problem? He thought it would be because of the dampness because there wasn't any insulation between the inside of the porch and the roof. Could this be true? AsktheBuilder 08 Jan 2008, 07:37 Nancy, What do the written instructions from the rubber roofing manufacturer say to do? lElle 02 Mar 2008, 23:39 My friend and I are building a home in an urban area on the East Coast. Question is (we're both architects so decisions and compromise are difficult to come by!) We have a low-sloped (flatish) roof with an EPDM - with access, the building skin on the drainage side is stucco and there aren't a lot of trees around - a few high sycamores. Is a scupper to drain that poor a detail compared to a gutter along 15' of the roof - that's flashed into the EPDM? (I'd hate to see water overflow and onto the stucco making it vulnerable to cracking). thanks~! AsktheBuilder 08 Mar 2008, 10:28 IElle, I would be inclined to go with the gutter, but more to keep the stucco looking nice. You could do an overhang of say 16 inches and have no gutter. On the ground, I would place #2 crushed stone at the drip line to prevent erosion.      View all comments *Name: Email: Notify me about new comments on this page Hide my email *Text: Security Image: Security Image Text:   Remember, Tim Carter doesn't answer questions here in the comments. You need to go to the Ask Tim page.