Waterproof Foundation & Damp Proofing

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: A waterproof foundation is essential for any residential home. Many foundations, however, are not completely waterproofed. Damp proofing a foundation simply slows down the water penetration and does not completely waterproof a foundation.

Exterior Foundation Waterproofing Compounds

Foundation waterproofing is probably one of the most confusing aspects of residential construction. Thousands of homeowners think they have a waterproofed foundation, when in fact they do not. Waterproofing is generally not used by a majority of builders, due to its higher cost. In an effort to stay competitive, some builders will cut corners in areas where the homeowner cannot easily see the finished product. Waterproofing is a prime example of this, due to the fact that it is generally covered early in the job by the dirt around the foundation. However, the higher initial cost of waterproofing is well worth it. Interior waterproofing methods used after a leak has developed are generally not as effective as a compound applied to the exterior surface of the foundation.

Foundation waterproofing is often confused with "damp proofing." Damp proofing is a process which retards or slows water penetration into foundations. Damp proofing is usually performed by applying unmodified asphalt coatings to the foundation surfaces. Most of these products become brittle when dry. Some of them can actually be dissolved by ground water. Virtually none of them have the ability to bridge foundation cracks. However, damp proofing compounds are generally very effective in stopping water vapor transmission. Untreated concrete or other masonry products readily absorb water from the soil around your house. This water travels through the concrete and evaporates from the inside surface of the basement wall. Frequently the walls will appear dry, however, the water is still being transmitted into your basement. Unless a water vapor barrier was installed beneath your floor, this same thing is happening with your basement concrete slab. That is why older houses frequently have "damp" feeling basements. The widespread use of damp proofing methods did not begin until the 1950's.

Waterproofing, on the other hand, is very different from damp proofing. Waterproofing compounds are designed to stop water infiltration. These compounds or membranes can be extremely effective when applied on the exterior of a foundation system. There are a wide variety of waterproofing products available to homeowners. They are vastly different in their composition. Some of these products are urethane based, others are modified asphalts, some are clay based and some are rubber polymers. Most of these compounds have the ability to bridge cracks that might later develop in a foundation. This is extremely important. Some compounds can bridge much bigger cracks than others. When installed properly, these waterproofing compounds can keep a basement dry for many, many years.




Comments:

Doug
23 Mar 2008, 08:53
What is the best way to repair my leaky basement , it leaks only on heavy rains,as far as i can tell. Ihave a finished recroom, the house is 30 yrs old it is a split entry home so the basement is only 4 ft. below grade. I'm ready to dig the outside up and repair it this summer any products or suggestions is appreciated . thanks
AsktheBuilder
23 Mar 2008, 11:46
Doug,
This is easy. Read all of the columns in my Drainage category and you will discover exactly what I would do if I were at your home working for you.
Mick Blackburn
29 Mar 2008, 10:06
We own a home built in the 30s. It has red clay tile blocks coated by a stucco like plaster on the inside and outside. We've had some water in the basement over the last two years. We want to take off the inside stucco layer, waterproof the blocks and recoat the walls. What kind of products should we use?
AsktheBuilder
30 Mar 2008, 12:50
Mick,
Read all of my Drainage category columns..... Stop the issue outdoors.
Philippe
08 May 2008, 14:43
Hello there. I need your help. I am having a new home built (baby split) and my contractor decided to pour a 6ft exterior wall instead of a 4ft. We had him install the Blue Skin product to help with waterproofing. He only installed it on the wall at the point where the inside floor will begin upward. The lower 2-3 feet were left untarred. Is this a concern? He seems to think it is not, while I feel that any standing water will just wick into the concrete and travel upward and into my basement. What do you suggest?
Steve
13 May 2008, 20:31
Hi, I am get some water in my basement. The problem is how do I fix this with finished basement walls? Can it be done? If so, please explain
roger
14 May 2008, 20:06
i read in one of your articles when installing drain tile pipe to face the holes down . how does the water get into the pipe and how does it flow through if installed like this /

i am currently digging up my cinder block basement walls to install drain tile .

thanks
DaveB
29 May 2008, 10:27
I've got unfilled 12" concrete block walls. They were dampproofed with roll on foundation tar in 1980 when the house was built. I'm digging down to the footer this summer to patch cracks, recoat and replace drain tiles.

Question: Since I've got tar already on the wall and most of is most likely not going to come off, what modern WATERPROOFING coating can I apply that will bond with old tar? Rubberized coating (Rub-R Wall) will not bond. Should I re-parge over the old tar with cement then apply a rubberized or urethane product over the parging?

FYI - After I recoat I will embedd 2" rigid foam board and then cover the whole thing down to the footer with a dimple wrap or poly membrane of some kind. I am in a very wet area with clay soil. My walls weep a little and I get a good deal of water at the cove joint which overwelms the 1.5" wide perimieter opening (floating slab). I have a gravity drain pipe, but I believe it is partially clogged because it drains very slowly.

I read through all you posts but can't find a reccomendation for recoating over old tar.

Thx.

Dave
Dan Pinegar
11 Jun 2008, 18:48
My 108 year old house in Iowa has a crawl space and a "sunken" cemented hole just big enough for the furnace and a sump pump. For many reasons we cannot relocate the furnace. We also cannot dig around the exterior of the foundation to waterproof it (even if we could, we would not reach the deeper foundation of this "sunken" basement area).

I have recently learned that there once was a creek that flowed parallel to the property and now is underground, and flows supposedly directly into the sewer.

Is there any way that I can waterproof the entire interior foundation area of the crawlspace so I don't lose another furnace???
d tanner
07 Aug 2008, 02:04
I have two rooms with their rear walls built into a hillside. Walls are random rubble, and about 8-10 feet below ground and I have had the covering removed to expose the stone. I would like to keep the stone exposed as a feature, and so prefer a chemical injection method. I do not own the land at the back, nor have4 access to it, so digging out is not an option. Any suggestions please

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