Concrete Slabjacking
Summary: Slabjacking can be the answer to a more costly replacement of a
concrete slab. Holes are drilled into the concrete and a mixture of
sand, cement, fly ash and other additives is pumped in. Some
slabjacking companies will use a closed-cell hydro-insensitive
polyurethane to lift the tilted slabs. Concrete slab jacking floats the
slab back in place with very little disruption to landscaping. You
don't even have to remove heavy items from the slab.
Related
Articles: Concrete Lifting, Reinforcing Steel, Slabjacking Tips, Concrete Slab Pinning
DEAR TIM: The concrete patio on my new home is sinking. It used to tilt away from the house. Now it tilts back towards the house. A similar thing is happening to the concrete slab inside my neighbor's garage. What do you think caused this to happen? Could it have been prevented? Is there a way to fix the problem, other than installing new concrete? S.W.
DEAR S. W.: There is a very good possibility that both concrete slabs were installed on poorly compacted fill dirt. Sub-surface erosion and shrinking soils are also possibilities. Fill dirt is almost always placed along side of house and garage foundations after the foundation work is completed.
Rarely does a builder take the time to compact this dirt. Mother Nature will do the job, but she sometimes takes years to complete the task.
Soils consist of solid particles and the spaces (voids) between these particles. The void spaces can be filled with either water and/or air. Void spaces are great for grass, bushes and trees. However, void spaces in soil can cause big problems for buildings and concrete slabs. Concentrated loads, such as buildings or slabs can literally squeeze air and water from soils. When this happens, the soil sinks and the buildings or slabs follow closely behind.
Your problem could have been avoided. Instead of installing fill dirt, your builder could have installed granular fill such as sand or a sand and gravel mix. These materials can be compacted quite easily with a hand held vibratory compactor. This material should also be used to fill trenches that cross sidewalks and driveways.
Your builder also could have pinned your slab to your house foundation. This process involves drilling holes into your foundation and inserting steel bars (pins). A network of inexpensive steel reinforcing bars are then fastened to these pins. The concrete patio or slab is then poured with this steel roughly in the center of the concrete. Should the soil beneath the slab settle or sink, the slab stays in place, supported by the pins. Do not use this method for structural slabs (those that support the weight of a structure or machine).
If you are fortunate enough to have a slabjacker in your area, you should not have to replace the concrete. These individuals can float a slab back to its original position by pumping a mixture of sand, cement, fly ash, and other additives beneath your slab. Not all companies use the same product to lift the concrete. You may find a company or two that pump two fast-reacting chemicals that combine and expand under the concrete slab. These chemicals form a structural polyurethane foam that is unaffected by water that may seep under the slab.
To install the mixtures or chemicals under a tilted or fallen slab, they simply drill strategically placed holes into the slab. Using a portable pump and flexible hoses, they fill these holes with the special mixture. Lifting a slab using this method can often be accomplished in a few hours. Often the cost to perform this service is less than half that of replacing a new slab.
There are numerous benefits to slabjacking. It can be done in virtually any weather. The material injected beneath the slab provides a strong base. There is little or no disruption to landscaping. Nothing needs to be moved off the slab, as the pump can lift the weight of the slab and anything you have placed on it. This should be great news for your neighbor!
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Comments:
Rob Hoynoski 05 Dec 2007, 14:58
Dear Tim;
The garage floor in my friend's garage is sunken in the middle, I estimate about 4" if not more from the height at the perimeter - very much like the diagram I saw on your web site (askthebuilder.com) which shows a depression in a concrete slab. My question is, will slabjacking raise the center of the slab back to level (or very close to it) or is the slab, which is completely cured after some 14 years, crack or raise in it's present form like a soup bowl ? Rob
AsktheBuilder 05 Dec 2007, 15:09
Rob,
A professional slabjacker will tell it to you straight. I have seen them do what I thought was impossible.
brian 23 Dec 2007, 15:37
I have a simmiler problem. I own a slab home and i cant find anyone that
can help me with my problem. I live in dalton mass. and there are no comp.
that i can find that do mudjacking, do you know where i could go to get a
listing of all the comp. that are in this line of work in the northeast??
thanks for your time/
AsktheBuilder 23 Dec 2007, 16:44
Brian,
Did you do a search using my site? Google knows you live up there by logging your IP address. They then serve up ads in the above column that are *geographically* matched! That is cool if you ask me. Right now I see ads above for Cincinnati, OH slabjackers.
Allegra 28 Jan 2008, 10:57
I had a 1/4 section of my driveway replaced on 1/21 because the one the
builder poured 5 years ago did not fade into the color of the rest of the
driveway. It was drizzling during the pour and most of the week. The
concrete guy put a plastic tarp over it w/bricks to hold it down over
wooden slats. It has been a week and the slab look very light grey-not the
color of the rest of the driveway. I am worried that it will not. He
assures me it will "brown" up after about 5 weeks and fade it like the
rest. He says he had the concrete plant to mix it so it does just that.
He says it just needs sunlight and time? Is that accureate? He left some
concrete in the expansion joints and some spillage onto the other parts of
th edriveway as well. He says he will come back and clean it up in about a
week (he is on a bigger job right now). Will that time frame cause a
problem? I really hate the way it looks.
Thanks
AsktheBuilder 28 Jan 2008, 11:27
Allegra,
The odds of that new pour matching your existing concrete is 100,000 to 1. That is not what you wanted to hear. The cement must be from the same batch and the sand must be from the same location for concrete and mortar to match.
Allegra 28 Jan 2008, 15:54
Hmmmm. What is the average complete cure time for a slab? I am in Texas.
AsktheBuilder 28 Jan 2008, 16:51
Allegra,
There is no standard answer..... There are simply too many variables and special mixes. I discuss this in many of my past Concrete columns. I suggest you read many of them.
Bill 11 Feb 2008, 23:16
We live in a Sacramento CA spanish two-story with a tile roof built 1929. A
two story addition was added many years ago over an outdoor patio slab and
joined with the existing structure. The bottom floor is a family room with
pavers over the slab and the upper is a bath and 10X10 spare room. I have
no idea what sort of foundation support was used, if any. Over the
twenty-five plus years we have lived here the addition has settled perhaps
3/4 to an inch at the most remote corner as evidenced by ceiling,floor and
exterior cracks and separation. Drainage and the removal of a large
camphor tree may also have contributed to the problem. Does this sound like
the kind of situation where slab jacking would be beneficial?
AsktheBuilder 12 Feb 2008, 06:09
Bill,
It sure does to me. But I can tell you that you should get a structural engineer involved in specifying the fix. View all comments |



