Bathroom and Kitchen Ventilation Fans
DEAR TIM: What appears to be a roof leak has developed in the ceiling of my 5 x 7 foot bathroom. A professional inspection of the roof revealed no problems. I looked into the attic and noticed that the bath ventilation fan pipe simply discharges air near a roof vent. The noisy fan doesn't seem to move that much air. Could this be a problem? How can it be corrected? F.E.
DEAR F. E.: Your bathroom fan is very likely the cause of your wet ceiling. My guess is that this problem became noticeable when the outdoor and attic temperature began to drop. Moist, humid air from bath activities was exhausted into your attic. This water vapor then condensed on the cold surfaces (rafters, roof sheathing, exposed nails) in the attic space. This condensed water dripped onto your ceiling and produced the phantom leak.
Bathroom ventilation is extremely important. Many people think that you need to simply exhaust the steam from hot showers or baths and unpleasant odors. Residual surface moisture on towels, carpeting, wash rags, and shower walls can significantly raise the humidity level in a bathroom after you have dressed and left the house. This moisture can be removed by controlling the bathroom fan with a humidistat rather than a standard on and off switch. The humidistat will automatically turn the fan off when the humidity has dropped to a satisfactory level.
The moist, humid air from bathrooms and kitchens must be ducted to the exterior of a house. This ducting can be achieved through an exterior wall, a soffit or eave, or the roof. Many fan manufacturers make special fittings that allow you to extend ductwork to the exterior of your house.
I have found that it is often best to vent fans and dryers through the roof. I urge you to watch this video of mine to see how easy it is to install the correct vent-cap flashing on a roof. Have no fear - if done right you will have no leaks.
Your existing fan may not be moving enough air for several reasons: it's not sized properly, the exhaust pipe is too long, sized improperly, or is obstructed, or the fan is simply worn out. Many of these things you can check.
Fans are sized depending upon how many cubic feet of air they can move each minute at a given pressure (static pressure). This quantity of air is often expressed as cubic feet per minute (CFM). The Home Ventilating Institute recommends that bathroom air be totally replaced a minimum of 8 times per hour. Kitchens require a minimum of 15 air replacements per hour.
Your bathroom contains 280 cubic feet of air (5x7x8). Using the above recommendation, you need to exhaust 2,240 CF in an hour (280x8). Purchasing a fan with a capacity of 37 CFM will meet this minimum standard (2,240 / 60).
It is vitally important to follow manufacturer's instructions regarding exhaust ducting. If you use the proper size duct pipe, minimize bends, tape all joints, and exhaust your fan to the exterior, you should have a dry ceiling in the future.
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Bonny 14 Mar 2008, 09:30
My husband and I purchased a 50+year old house last year. the single full
bath is on the first floor and without a ventilation fan- over the last
year, mold has begun to grow on the ceiling of the bathroom. We would love
to install a vent fan, but aren't sure if we are able to do this on our
own. there is a window in the bathroom with sufficient space on the wall
on either side of the window to install a fan. Does it have to be in the
ceiling? or can we go through the wall so we do not have to involve the
ceiling/2nd floor? Also, the outside of the house is brick- will we be
able to do this ourselves? thanks so much
AsktheBuilder 15 Mar 2008, 08:39
Bonny,
I don't know your skill sets. Read all of my Bathroom Exhaust Fan columns and you will discover how to do this job.
Allison Winchester 05 Apr 2008, 20:03
We bought our house a year ago (it's new) and noticed leaking in the family
room ceiling directly below the master bathroom. The shower stall and pipes
were leaking onto our subfloor. We are now worried about mold growth behind
our walls. I placed a fan to dry out one area we can access but we're not
sure what to do next. We also smell a musty area in our hall closet on the
main floor. Should we look into this more? Do we need to replace the wet
drywall and floor? Thanks Allison
AsktheBuilder 09 Apr 2008, 17:16
Allison,
Yes! Remove the drywall and fix the leak! Let things dry, remediate any mold then repair all surfaces.
Kam 06 Jun 2008, 07:53
Hi Tim
I have a question...last year we noticed tiny littek brown bugs in our master bathroom. They are small and jump when you got to wipe them. Anyway we discovered they were coming through bathroom ceiling vent...we found a couple in the plastic housing and we bug bommed the pipe and that controlled the problem. Nothing all winter...then today as soon as it is hot I notce more of those same bugs - they appear to be coming from ceiling fan...is this even possible? How can I prevent this and/oe should I change the bathroom vent? Thank you
Scott Balthazor 27 Oct 2008, 17:32
Hello,
I have a single level house that has no bathroom or kitchen vent installed. My questions are when installing a vent how long can the ductwork be before I will have problems with the steam condensing back into water? Can I link the ductwork from the kitchen to the ductwork from the bathroom so I will only have to make one vent to the exterior? I live in Wisconsin with the cold winters what sort of vent to the exterior do you recommend? Roof vent, gabble vent or a soffit vent?
ray martin 16 Aug 2011, 20:04
I have a central exhaust fan with a humidistat. No matter where I set the
humidistat, both the exhaust fan and furnace fan won't shut off. The
duct(drawing the air from outside) running to the fan has a small hole in
it with a small clear pipe coming out of the hole and running to a control
box. If I pull the clear pipe out of the duct, the fan in the furnace
stops running, but the central fan continues to run. Do I have a faulty
humidistat upstairs in the hallway next to my thermostat ?
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