DIY Plumbing
Summary: DIY plumbing may be worth a try, but you can quickly get in over your head. Plumbing is a true craft, and even soldering copper pipes can be a challenge. Discover secrets from a licensed master plumber, Tim Carter.
DEAR TIM: Do you know how to solder copper water pipes? I plan to install some new copper tubing which will replace old galvanized steel water lines. How do you successfully solder copper water lines? I'm afraid of burning my house down while using the torch. What can I do to minimize fire risks? A.M.
DEAR A.M.: Soldering copper pipe intimidates many homeowners. With a little knowledge and practice, you will get leak free joints just about every time. Not only that, if you follow some simple steps, we can keep the mileage low on your local fire department pumper trucks.
For you to solder copper tubing successfully, you will need the following tools and supplies: a tubing cutter, round wire fitting brushes, plumbers sand cloth, flux, flux brush, an acetylene or propane torch, lead free solder, and a few 5 gallon buckets. All of these items can be found at your local plumbing supply house.
Tubing cutters are simple tools that cleanly cut copper tubing to specific lengths. Use the plumber's sand cloth to clean each end of the pipe. You need to shine only about 1 inch at each end. The fitting brushes are rotated inside of the copper fittings to remove oxidation.
Open the flux container. You will see a gelatin like substance that usually contains zinc chloride, ammonium chloride, and paraffin. Stir the flux well to mix it, especially if it has been sitting in a hot area. Use a small flux brush to apply a coating to the areas of both the pipe and fitting you have cleaned. Don't get the flux in your eyes or mouth!
The pipes and fittings must be dry for soldering to take place. If water or steam is in the pipes, you can't get the copper hot enough to melt and draw the liquid solder into the fitting. You can temporarily stop the flow of water if you roll up some bread and stick it in the pipe where water is flowing. The bread will eventually dissolve and not cause a problem within the water lines.
Once you have joined the pipe to the fitting, it is time to solder. Light the torch using a match or a flint striker. You should see a flame within a flame if your torch is adjusted correctly. The tip of the inner flame produces the hottest temperatures. Apply the torch to the pipe/fitting area so that the tip of the inner flame just touches the copper. The flux will immediately begin to boil.
Within about 10 - 20 seconds, the boiling flux will disappear. At this time, touch the solder to the intersection point of the pipe and fitting. Within 1 second, the solder should begin to melt. Immediately remove the torch. If the pipe and fitting are sufficiently hot, the solder will continue to melt and be drawn completely into the fitting. The pipe will usually retain enough heat to melt the solder for 10 to 15 seconds. However, you usually need to only apply solder for 3 - 5 seconds.
Using a propane or acetylene torch around wood framed houses is a recipe for disaster. Wood chips, paper insulation backing, etc. can ignite easily. Prior to starting this project fill your 5 gallon buckets with water. Better yet, purchase a portable fire extinguisher that is made to extinguish wood and paper fires.
You can also buy at the plumbing supply house non combustible flameproof fire shields. You can place these between the copper and any combustible product as you solder. If you can't locate this product, a piece of sheet metal will do a fine job to absorb and deflect the torch's heat. Always look behind or past what you are soldering. Be sure you do not melt an electrical wire or telephone wire. You may need to dial 911!
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Comments:
Rany Bailey 28 Dec 2007, 17:28
Hi i have a problem with toilet when i flush it the waste goes down but at
the end of the flush some of the waete will come back into the toilet what
could be my problem. thank you Randy
AsktheBuilder 28 Dec 2007, 17:43
Rany,
It could be several things. Read all of my Toilet Columns and see if that doesn't help you diagnose the problem.
Rick Brown 08 Jan 2008, 18:14
I need to replace a 27 yr old tub faucet. The old chrome faucet screwed off
but the wall nipple length doesn't fit any newer models. Have any tips for
loosening the iron pipe nipple so I can replace it? I am trying not to
break it off but so far it refuses to move.
thanks, Rick
AsktheBuilder 08 Jan 2008, 18:58
Rick,
Possibly a longer wrench?
EMKing 06 Mar 2008, 23:14
The tank of a 30 yr old toilet cracked. Easy to replace, but I'd planned on
replacing it, the flooring and the fiber glass tub. The tub poses the
biggest challenge as I'll need to adjust the drain location to match the
new tub. The drain is in concrete. What potential problems can I encounter
when chipping the concrete to release the drain, and then when
re-installing the tub to match the drain. Everything else seems simple
except working with the concrete. Thanks, EMKing
AsktheBuilder 09 Mar 2008, 19:37
EM,
Just get into the job and see what happens. I can't help until you have an issue.
Lance Leatherby 13 Jun 2008, 15:14
Have seeping 50 year old galvanized iron pipe nipple threaded into copper
pipe.
Pipe nipple is surrounded by heavy tile concrete. What is best way to remove/replace and is iron pipe corrosion my chief enemy? Thanks!
Anni Hall 19 Jun 2008, 13:00
Single Mom here. The handle to turn on the cold water in my tub hits the
spigot when I turn the water off. It won't let the water go off all the
way. What do I do?
Thanks!
Jim Lake 14 Aug 2008, 13:36
I am building a small apartment over a garage. How do I bring the water and
sewage pipes up to the unit. The garage is on a slab and has not been
poured. Over, under, thru?
jason 28 Aug 2008, 20:04
I am installing a new shower and also a tub shower combo do i need to vent
each of these
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