Grout Removal and Redo

By
©1993-2012 Tim Carter

        
Summary: Removing grout from ceramic tile showers and tubs can be done without tile removal. It is a job done by hand or with a small electric grinder. You will need a lot of patience before you start grouting tile again. Be careful not to scratch your ceramic tile.

Related Articles: Tile Grout Removal, Grout Removal Tools, Regrouting Tips

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DEAR TIM: The grout in my tub and shower area is a mess. It is difficult to keep clean and has actually crumbled in places. Is it possible to regrout over the existing grout? Or, do I have to remove the ceramic tile and start over? What type of grout should I use? Is it possible to achieve professional results, assuming that I have above average remodeling skills? B. E.

DEAR B. E.: Well, I have good news and bad news...... The good news is that you don't have to remove the existing ceramic tile! The bad news is that you can't regrout over the top of the existing grout. The old grout must be removed by hand or by using a small electric grinder.

There are two hand methods you can use to remove old grout. The remainder of the grout may crumble when you use a carbide tipped scraper tool specifically designed for grout removal. If not, you may have to use a fine tipped screwdriver and a hammer to remove the grout.

The carbide tipped scrapers can be found at most stores that sell ceramic tile. They are very inexpensive. Be careful, as they can easily scratch the glazed tile surface. You apply firm, but gentle pressure, as you draw the scraper across the grout. It may take repeated strokes before you remove a significant portion of the grout. Move on when you expose the unglazed edges of the tile.


Restore the "clean" to your grout. Just go to CLEANGROUTNOW to see the beautiful, quick results.

Be sure to drape a cloth tarp in the bottom of the tub before starting this project. Loose pieces of grout can scratch the tub surface if you step or kneel on them. Remove the grout fragments on a regular basis to minimize scratch hazards.

If the carbide tipped tool does no good, you will have to chisel the old grout from between the tiles. This can be accomplished using a flat bladed screw driver or an old wooden chisel with a 1/4 inch blade. Tap the screwdriver or chisel lightly with a hammer. Once you have removed some grout, always chisel away from the grout which is still in place. If you chisel towards existing grout, there is a great chance that you will chip the sides of the tiles.

Once you have completed the job and regained your sanity, it is time to grout. I would suggest that you use a dry set grout with latex additives or a latex-Portland cement grout. These grouts mix with water. They offer superior bonding qualities. In addition, they tend to be less absorptive than standard Portland cement grouts.

Applying the grout is rather simple. You will need two important tools: a hard rubber grout float and a synthetic grout sponge with rounded edges. Two or three buckets of fresh water are also necessary.

Add water to the dry grout mixture, and stir until the grout resembles a creamy cake icing on a hot day. The grout should be firm, but not runny. Trowel the grout onto approximately 6 square feet of tile using the rubber float. Apply pressure to squeeze the grout into the grooves between the tiles. Remove excess grout by pulling the float across the tile at a 45 degree angle.

The sponge is used to remove grout from the face of the tile and to strike the grout joints. Squeeze as much water from the sponge as possible. Rub the sponge lightly in a circular manner across the grouted area. Rinse the sponge frequently. Once again, squeeze all of the water from the sponge. When the tile looks clean, turn the sponge on edge and glide it across the grout lines one at a time. Do this until the grout lines are smooth and uniform in appearance. Avoid using too much water. That is why your previous grout crumbled.



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Comments:

Welcome! I, Tim Carter, don't answer questions here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area, perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me, there is an option there for you.
Bay
24 Nov 2007, 12:27
Dear Tim,
We just had 6" quarry tiles installed in our kitchen, and we find that the contractors did not do a very even job of grouting. These tiles are 1/2" thick, so in some areas, the shallow grout lines are quite conspicuous. It's been 1 week since the grouting was done, and we were hoping we could just give it a good cleaning and regrout over the existing grout, but from the research we've done on-line, it looks like that might not be an option. Is there anything we can do at this point to enable new grout to adhere properly to the existing grout? I believe it was a polymer-fortified cementitious grout that was used, and it is in fine, new condition, just too shallow! Thanks so much for your help!
Best regards,
Bay
ATB
24 Nov 2007, 14:38
You may be able to get new to stick to the old since it is so fresh. The new grout must be at least 1/16th thick. Mix the new grout so it is like a mudball. Wet the old grout just before applying the new.
JC
23 Dec 2007, 13:33
Dear Tim,
We have really old, worn-away dark brown grouting in our kitchen and bathroom. I am going to chisel away a good chunk of it so that I can apply new grouting. I've read where you need to "lightly mist" the grout for 3 days after application. How much and how often does this mean? I know you say not to use too much water otherwise the grout might get crumbly again. I'm looking at using Polyblend Sanded Grout. Also, what is curing time before being able to use the countertops with no problem? We're supposed to have family visiting from Dec. 27th.
Thanks,
JC
AsktheBuilder
23 Dec 2007, 14:12
JC,
You better get crackin'! The new grout needs to be at least 1/8-inch thick. Mist the OLD grout in sections as you apply the new. It is very important that the old be damp. Then the secondary misting is not as critical.

Mark Buell
21 Jan 2008, 18:12
Dear Tim;

We recently purchased a house with a granite tile kitchen counter top. The granite is beautiful, but it was installed without gaps for grout. On perhaps 30% of the join lines there is a little space for grout - but we are talking about a space width slightly smaller than a wooden toothpick! You say grout must be 1/16 thick, and most of the join lines have only the bevel depth, with no gap. Should I attempt to use grout to seal this surface, or should I do something else?

Thanks,
Mark
AsktheBuilder
22 Jan 2008, 10:29
Mark,
Those cracks in the granite top are supposed to be filled with colored epoxy mixed to match the granite. Call a granite fabricator in to do this.
Bruce
10 Feb 2008, 10:14
After several failed attempts by the contractor to grout, repair, and fix again, the vertical grout lines in the shower, I am going to remove the grout in the vertical lines and try to fix them myself. I am thinking of using Polyblend's Ceramic Tile Caulk which has a color that matches the Polyblend Grout that was initially used. Do you forsee any objections to this product?
AsktheBuilder
10 Feb 2008, 11:20
Bruce,
You can try it..... I have used that brand of caulk but *never* as a grout substitute.
Mark
11 Feb 2008, 07:52
Re: Granite tile counter tops

Bruce, you replied to my question about granite tiles and grout (no space for grout). You said the granite tiles are supposed to use epoxy instead of grout.

Thanks for the help! I appreciate the new knowledge!
Mark
Bekka
15 Feb 2008, 13:51
Tim,
My step father in-law installed ceramic tile in my kitchen, the grout looks horrible. I am going to drill it out and regrout. I don't know if you have the ability to do this however can you please recommend a good brand, type of grout for a Bright White grout, and 1/4" grout spaces. If you could I would greatly appreciate it. I appreciate your time to look at my question
Thank you, Bekka

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