Vaulted Ceiling Building
Summary: Building a vaulted ceiling can be accomplished by the DIY'r, however you must be a very good DIY'r. Check first with a structural engineer. You don't want your roof to collapse. Try to think of building for the future with added electrical wiring.
DEAR TIM: I recently removed the drywall ceiling in several rooms of my home. As I looked up through the ceiling joists to the roof above I was amazed at how great the room would look with a vaulted ceiling. The problem is that there is simply not enough space in the roof rafters for adequate insulation. How can I get the vaulted ceiling I want and keep my heating and cooling costs at a minimum? Is there anything else I should consider while doing this project? Robert J., Long Branch, NJ
DEAR ROBERT: This is a project I have done on more than one occasion. Isn't it amazing how a flat ceiling can cleverly disguise the interesting architectural features of a sloped roof? Once this job is complete you, your family and your friends are going to be intoxicated by the dramatic look and feel of the room.
If you were building a new home the architect or designer would most likely use a very cool truss called a scissors truss. This truss is constructed using the exterior roof slope that is desired by you or the architect. Beneath these truss components the fabricator then builds the vaulted ceiling that is usually half the slope of the exterior roof. This truss design provides ample room to fit batt or blown insulation. You or a good rough carpenter can do the same thing beneath your existing roof.
If this method is too costly or labor intensive and/or you feel the interior vaulted slope will be too gentle, then you can add lumber to the bottom of the existing roof rafters to make them deep enough to accommodate the necessary insulation and a two inch air space between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the roof sheathing. This air space is absolutely critical. Do not pack the space between the roof rafters and the roof sheathing with insulation. Air must be allowed to float over the insulation as it travels from soffit vents to a continuous roof ridge vent.
There are several things you should consider while you do this project. The first thing that pops into my mind is skylights. Not only are you over halfway there with respect to installation, now is a perfect time to install a flared light tunnel. Most skylight tunnels are straight and provide decent light. But flared light shafts allow abundant natural light to stream into your remodeled space.
I would also think about recessed or hidden sound system speakers. If this new space is going to house a television with a combined stereo setup, then now is the time to install the speakers and all of the necessary low voltage wiring. Expect to pay at least $600 or more for four to six speakers, the wiring and volume controls.
If the demolition that takes place allows you to easily gain access to other hidden or hard to get to attic areas, now might be the time to install a blank conduit or two that extends to or near the electrical panel of your home. The day is soon approaching where houses that are wired for today's and future technology will be more attractive to buyers. I would do whatever is feasible to install new CAT 5 low voltage wires to as many locations as possible while you have your home in this temporary state of disarray.
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Comments:
Tonya 05 Feb 2008, 16:20
Hello,
I recently bought a new home that has vaulted ceilings in my kitchen and living room area approximately 30-35 feet tall. I have track lighting on the ceiling but I have no idea how to change the lightbulbs being that high up in the air. I have heard of the telescopic poles but cannot find one long enough to help with my lighting situation. Can anyone help me? Thanks.
Ty 19 Mar 2008, 10:11
You can find the telescopic pole at Home Depot and Lowes.
Mark 13 Apr 2008, 16:10
I took out my ceiling joist and would like to vault my ceiling. Can I stick
frame my new vaulted joist and add my existing purlin support on top of my
new rafters? or do I have to install trusses. My existing rafters (2x4)are
not trusses but do have a purlin for support sitting on a beam that I'm
going to take out. My span for my room is 21' 6".
Keith Brady 27 Apr 2008, 09:46
We have converted a small greenhouse into a cabin. We put the tarpaper and
metal roofing right over the lexan. Do we need to leave an airspace
between the insulation and the lexan for ventilation, or will the lexan
itself act as ventilation? It is an open beam ceiling, and,of course, if
we could put the insulation right next to the lexan we could use thicker
insulation, a plus here in Alaska. What do you think? Thanks! Keith
Grant 09 May 2008, 04:28
Mark: if you want to create a vaulted ceiling in any room you need to first
go in the attic and check the room you have, never a good diea to rip out
drywall first. then once you have a good idea of what your working with its
a good idea to build the framework for the vault and reinforce it to keep
strutural stability of the roof and walls. THEN you can cut out your dry
wall and joists.
And you can get creative with angles and whatnot but always think ahead. i.e. isulation, electrical, HVAC systems. then lighting and all of this needs to be planned before you go and jump to covering the ceiling back up. Contract custom remodeler
Richard Holt 10 Jun 2008, 18:08
I purchased a second home that has a vaulted T&G ceiling. It is about 20
feet high. Part of the room has a loft with two sky lights. The house was
built in 94. The room gets considerable afternoon sun. It has four large
sliding doors with blinds which I keep closed. The room heats up and is
difficlut to cool. The air returns are on the floor, so it is not pulling
hot air from the ceiling. I have tried opening the sky lights an inch top
let hot air out. Would it be helpful to install an inline ventilation fan
vented out the house. Would that help the AC system and help cool the
house?
thanks
Joanne Craine 12 Jul 2008, 15:24
I recently had my home re-roofed. It previously had wood shake and we went
to 50 year composition because of fire danger. The contractor did not tell
us that we would lose insulation by changing to composition. Now it is
impossible to cool down our house because 2 rooms are tongue and groove. I
feel he should have advised us to insulate before he laid the roof.
Another big problem is that he used nails that were too long and they came through the beautiful wood causing holes and pieces of wood to come down. He has since re-roofed the 2 sections with shorter nails however we are left with holes and wood missing. His solution is to have a painter come out and re-stain the ceilings. We will still have holes and wood missing? Do you have a solution to our insulation and damage mess. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Joanne
DOUG MASON 11 Sep 2008, 17:59
what would be the proper way to vent a vaulted ceiling from eves to ridge
with clearances for air and also maintain proper structural nailing for
roof sheeting?
maggie 17 Oct 2008, 13:42
i moved into an apartment and there is a track on my ceiling, but no lights
in it. it has a cord that goes all the way to the outlet. how tough is it
to install lights in that empty track?
-maggie
Penelope 03 Dec 2008, 13:03
I just moved into an apartment that has vaulted ceilings. It's hot when
it's warm outside and cold when it's cold outside. Am I looking at huge
heating and cooling bills? Will ceiling fans help regulate the temperature?
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