Wood Wall Covered in Artificial Stone
DEAR TIM: I want to build an exterior wall around my pool area. My dream wall would be made from stone. But my skills are heavily weighted to carpentry. Therefore, I think a masonry wall might be out of the question. I am not looking forward to wood because I realize it will need periodic maintenance. Is there an easy no-maintenance material I can use? What do you suggest? Gerry M., Malone, NY
DEAR GERRY: This is indeed an ambitious project and one that will look good once completed. A stone wall would be very attractive and I think you should not abandon this idea. You need to think outside the box. What if I told you that you could build a wood wall and cover it with artificial stone that is so realistic it would fool even a geologist?
You can purchase affordable artificial stone that can be applied directly to a wood wall substrate. This stone is made using colorful iron oxide pigments, cement and special small lightweight aggregates that are poured into highly specialized molds. The molds are vibrated so that the face of the concrete stones picks up every detail of the molds. The resulting texture and color of the artificial stones is incredible. They come in all different colors, textures and sizes. The color is solid throughout and they weather just like traditional stone.
It is easy to install the stones. They are simply pushed into a bed of mortar that has been troweled over a layer of galvanized wire lath. The stones are generally easy to fit and you are supplied with special corner stones that allow you to finish off any outside corners.
There are several important steps you need to consider if you want a wall that will not deteriorate or crack. The combined weight of the lumber and the artificial stone and setting mortar will be considerable. If you build the wood wall like a traditional fence, all of the weight will be concentrated upon the vertical posts. These posts must be placed on eight inch thick by 30 inch diameter footers that extend below the frost line in your area.
I would consider using treated lumber for all of the posts, beams, and plywood for the sub-wall that acts as the hidden support system for the artificial stone. The beams need to be securely fastened to the posts with either a mortised recessed joint in each post or by using structural framing connectors that are readily available at most lumber yards or hardware stores. Simply nailing the horizontal beams into the posts is a recipe for disaster. All fasteners must be galvanized.
After the wood wall is constructed, it should weather for a period of 30 to 60 days. This will allow it to shrink. Treated lumber often contains lots of moisture. If you construct the wood wall and immediately cover it with the artificial stone, you may get random cracks in the joints between stones as the wood member shrink and contract.
It is also a great idea to place tar paper over the entire wood structure just before you nail on the galvanized wire lath. Because water can soak through the mortar that holds the stones onto the wall, this tar paper will keep the wood dry. If the wood were to get wet at a later time, then it might swell. This swelling could also create random cracks.
The shop that sells the artificial stone will very likely give you numerous building tips. This product is used all over the USA for garden walls and privacy walls. You will by no means be the first person to use this artificial stone to create a paradise around a pool!
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Gerard keyes 26 Aug 2008, 10:54
I am looking for foam base artificial oak beams do you know a manufacturer
or
distributor. I would appreciate your help many thanks Gerard
Lea 24 Nov 2008, 02:29
Hi Tim
I have a very unsightly concrete strip that is about 20cm high (9") 20cm wide and running for about 20 metres (60') running down my yard. It is positioned at about 1.5m (4')in from my fence line, the concrete is embedded into the ground by about 20cm. It's way to big, and far to difficult to access to think of digging it up with a backhoe or any other large equipment needed to dig out this low wall. So... I've decided to make a 'feature' of this very low wall - and thought that I would buy at least a tonne of river stones (the local hardware store will sell a tonne of stones, they are 3 to 5cm or 1" to 2" in size). I thought I would cover the current concrete in a thin layer of concrete (on the top and both sides), press the stones into the wet cement (in a pattern, making a decorative low wall). I would of course just do little sections at a time, moving from one end of the low wall slowly up to the other end. To finish this effect, I'm going to make a garden of the lawn area between this low wall and the fence. However... I am concerned about a couple of things. For example - I'm worried that the new concrete will not stick to the old concete, or that it might crack and come apart. Or that some other problem I hadn't thought of would arise. I was reading your suggestions here and thought they sounded similar to what I am interested in doing. Maybe using wire over the current concrete will help the new concrete stay in place? Should I use an additive to the concrete? Or a particular 'type' of concrete mix?? I have a photo of the current wall but am unsure how to send it in to you. thank you for your help. Lea
Randy 18 Jan 2010, 00:12
Tim,
I have a sloping back yard that runs downhill down towards the fence between my yard and the neighbor's yard. I would like to build a retaining wall to level the yard which would raise the level of my yard up to 2 feet in some places, making the 6' privacy fence only about 4' tall on my side. I read the post about building a wooden wall and covering it with artificial stone. I like the idea and would consider building this on top of the retaining wall. My concern would be that because the of existing fence, I would not be able to waterproof the back side of the new wall as it will be too close to the existing fence. One thought I have is to build a dry stack concrete block wall and cover the yard side of the wall with reinforced stucco and fill a majority of the block cells with concrete. Any suggestions or thoughts on an alternative? View all comments |


