Wood Wall Covered in Artificial Stone

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: Artificial stone can be applied directly to a wood wall substrate for a great stone wall look. The materials used will be: treated lumber for posts and beams; plywood for the sub-wall; and tar paper, galvanized wire lath and mortar for setting the stones.

DEAR TIM: I want to build an exterior wall around my pool area. My dream wall would be made from stone. But my skills are heavily weighted to carpentry. Therefore, I think a masonry wall might be out of the question. I am not looking forward to wood because I realize it will need periodic maintenance. Is there an easy no-maintenance material I can use? What do you suggest? Gerry M., Malone, NY

DEAR GERRY: This is indeed an ambitious project and one that will look good once completed. A stone wall would be very attractive and I think you should not abandon this idea. You need to think outside the box. What if I told you that you could build a wood wall and cover it with artificial stone that is so realistic it would fool even a geologist?

This is my neighbor's wood fence. It has a smooth face to which you could attach artificial stone. The challenge is to make sure the fence sections are securely attached to the posts as the weight of the stone can be significant.
This is my neighbor's wood fence. It has a smooth face to which you could attach artificial stone. The challenge is to make sure the fence sections are securely attached to the posts as the weight of the stone can be significant.
Before you proceed to the lumber yard and stone center, you need to stop by your local government zoning office. Many cities, towns and villages have strict zoning laws that control yard walls and fences. These laws even control walls and fences surrounding pools. You need to pay particular attention to the minimum and maximum heights of the wall and the appearance. Some zoning laws regulate the materials you must use and the appearance of the surface that faces your neighbors.

You can purchase affordable artificial stone that can be applied directly to a wood wall substrate. This stone is made using colorful iron oxide pigments, cement and special small lightweight aggregates that are poured into highly specialized molds. The molds are vibrated so that the face of the concrete stones picks up every detail of the molds. The resulting texture and color of the artificial stones is incredible. They come in all different colors, textures and sizes. The color is solid throughout and they weather just like traditional stone.

It is easy to install the stones. They are simply pushed into a bed of mortar that has been troweled over a layer of galvanized wire lath. The stones are generally easy to fit and you are supplied with special corner stones that allow you to finish off any outside corners.

There are several important steps you need to consider if you want a wall that will not deteriorate or crack. The combined weight of the lumber and the artificial stone and setting mortar will be considerable. If you build the wood wall like a traditional fence, all of the weight will be concentrated upon the vertical posts. These posts must be placed on eight inch thick by 30 inch diameter footers that extend below the frost line in your area.

I would consider using treated lumber for all of the posts, beams, and plywood for the sub-wall that acts as the hidden support system for the artificial stone. The beams need to be securely fastened to the posts with either a mortised recessed joint in each post or by using structural framing connectors that are readily available at most lumber yards or hardware stores. Simply nailing the horizontal beams into the posts is a recipe for disaster. All fasteners must be galvanized.

After the wood wall is constructed, it should weather for a period of 30 to 60 days. This will allow it to shrink. Treated lumber often contains lots of moisture. If you construct the wood wall and immediately cover it with the artificial stone, you may get random cracks in the joints between stones as the wood member shrink and contract.

It is also a great idea to place tar paper over the entire wood structure just before you nail on the galvanized wire lath. Because water can soak through the mortar that holds the stones onto the wall, this tar paper will keep the wood dry. If the wood were to get wet at a later time, then it might swell. This swelling could also create random cracks.

The shop that sells the artificial stone will very likely give you numerous building tips. This product is used all over the USA for garden walls and privacy walls. You will by no means be the first person to use this artificial stone to create a paradise around a pool!



Comments:

Gerard keyes
26 Aug 2008, 10:54
I am looking for foam base artificial oak beams do you know a manufacturer or
distributor.
I would appreciate your help

many thanks
Gerard
Lea
24 Nov 2008, 02:29
Hi Tim
I have a very unsightly concrete strip that is about 20cm high (9") 20cm wide and running for about 20 metres (60') running down my yard. It is positioned at about 1.5m (4')in from my fence line, the concrete is embedded into the ground by about 20cm. It's way to big, and far to difficult to access to think of digging it up with a backhoe or any other large equipment needed to dig out this low wall.
So... I've decided to make a 'feature' of this very low wall - and thought that I would buy at least a tonne of river stones (the local hardware store will sell a tonne of stones, they are 3 to 5cm or 1" to 2" in size). I thought I would cover the current concrete in a thin layer of concrete (on the top and both sides), press the stones into the wet cement (in a pattern, making a decorative low wall). I would of course just do little sections at a time, moving from one end of the low wall slowly up to the other end.
To finish this effect, I'm going to make a garden of the lawn area between this low wall and the fence.
However... I am concerned about a couple of things. For example - I'm worried that the new concrete will not stick to the old concete, or that it might crack and come apart. Or that some other problem I hadn't thought of would arise.
I was reading your suggestions here and thought they sounded similar to what I am interested in doing.
Maybe using wire over the current concrete will help the new concrete stay in place?
Should I use an additive to the concrete? Or a particular 'type' of concrete mix??
I have a photo of the current wall but am unsure how to send it in to you.
thank you for your help.
Lea

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