Creating Brick Patios
Summary: A brick patio draws raves. Create patios of ceramic tile, stone, concrete, stamped concrete, concrete brick or clay bricks as well.
DEAR TIM: I have a perfect spot in the back of my house for a patio. The look of real brick is very appealing to me. Is it possible for an average person to install a brick patio? What is the easiest method and what is the most permanent method? What do you think the materials would cost? Pamela S., Overland Park, KS
DEAR PAMELA: Patios can be created using all sorts of materials including, but not limited to, concrete, Patterned Concrete®, stone, ceramic tile, traditional clay brick and concrete brick. I have worked with all of these materials but I must admit that the traditional red clay paving brick has always received the most glowing compliments from customers and people who walk on my own brick patios.
I feel one of the most important aspects of the job is to make sure the patio is sized properly. All too often people make patios and decks too small. I would purchase the patio furniture you intend to use. Place it exactly where it will be used. Use spray paint or string to outline the edges of the patio allowing sufficient room for grills, side tables, flower pots, etc. Using this outline you will be able to estimate the total square footage of the patio.
An average person can install a brick patio. If you work alone, it will take many days of work. All too often people think they can do jobs like this in a weekend. I find that rarely to be the case. Be conservative in your time estimate so that you do not rush and cut corners. An average sized patio that measures 15 by 20 feet may consume 100 to150 man hours of labor.
Clay paving brick can be set in a sand base that is supported by a crushed gravel base. They can also be permanently attached to a poured concrete base. I have tried both methods and I can tell you that the brick over sand method is by no means permanent. Moles can push up brick, ants love to bring sand to the surface between the joints and this sand is often tracked back into the house. Weed control is a constant problem as well. Installing the brick with cement mortar over concrete eliminates all of these problems.
The amount of work to do both methods is nearly identical. In both instances you will need to excavate and remove soil to create the area for the gravel or concrete base. Transporting the gravel or concrete via wheelbarrow to the patio site is the same amount of work. Installing the base materials is also very similar. Moving brick to the patio and placing each one is the same. The biggest difference is the time spent carefully placing brick in a cement mortar and then grouting the joints the next day. Comparing the time for both methods I would estimate that you will only spend an additional 15 to 20 hours to get a permanent installation. This is a bargain for a surface that will give you years of beauty and trouble free service.
The cost to install a traditional brick patio is affordable. I prefer to use the one and one half inch thick solid paving brick. These measure four inches wide by eight inches long and currently cost forty cents each in my city. Each square foot of patio surface requires approximately 3.7 brick. The concrete required for this job will cost about eighty cents a square foot. Miscellaneous materials like sand, cement and saw blades needed to cut the brick may add another fifty cents per square foot to your cost. The total cost of materials for your patio should be in the neighborhood of $2.80 per square foot or $840.00 if you do go with a 15 by 20 foot patio.
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Comments:
Carolyn Lerias 18 Feb 2008, 14:59
Dear Tim,
I have a 16.33 foot x 13.5 foot sunken master bedroom (3" deep) which I would like to fill in to match the level of the rest of the house. Would it be better to fill it in with concrete (pour a slab on the current slab) or fill it with mortared brick (brick on concrete like your "Creating Brick Patios" article)and how much would it cost? The advantage of the brick is that it seems easier for one person to do and it should look very nice when done (no extra covering needed).
AsktheBuilder 25 Feb 2008, 20:12
Carolyn,
I never provide cost information. Too many variables. Brick would be stunning! Give it a try.
John 12 Mar 2008, 16:17
how do i estimate the number of bricks I will need for a brick patio and
adjoining walkways?
AsktheBuilder 12 Mar 2008, 16:41
John,
Simple. You calculate the surface area of one brick and then calculate the surface area of the area to be covered. Divide the driveway area by the area of the brick. Be sure to be in the same unit size..... either square inches for both or square feet.
Jennifer 15 Mar 2008, 10:10
We currently have a concrete slab patio by our front door that is level
with ground. We would like to install a brick patio instead and make it
level with the front door. We also want to expand the porch area onto what
is now dirt and mulch. Our question is; do we remove the current cement
patio and excavate the whole area to the size we want and start from there?
Or can we lay the brick patio over the existing cement with extensions over
a non cement base?
AsktheBuilder 15 Mar 2008, 17:15
Jennifer,
I don't know........ You can only do the math. Read all of my other Paving Brick Patio columns as I talk about the thickness of the brick I used on all of my own patios at my house. They are pretty thin!
matt 02 Apr 2008, 14:58
if i'm doing a brick patio using sand/gravel, approximately how much of
each should be used (ie: # per sq. foot)?
AsktheBuilder 05 Apr 2008, 09:44
Matt,
Six-inch gravel base with 2 inches of sand. Don't forget to buy the weed killer. :->
steve canowitz 18 May 2008, 10:17
What is the best approach to prevent moss and weed growth between bricks on
a patio? Also, what is the best pre-emergent tactic to prevent weed and
grass growth in the mulch beds?
Thanks
Joe 19 May 2008, 11:15
Hi Tim,
My wife and I bought our house about 10 years ago and it had a BEAUTIFUL clay brick patio- on a sand base, and now- we have a very uneven, weed filled, ant infested back patio. I think I know the answer but.. are we going to have to pull it all out and use the cement base and cement mortar to make it permanent. I assume that I cannot fix the bad areas and then mortar in to hold as the sand base will always shift. Can I get away with a thin 2" cement slab for the bricks? View all comments |


