Minimize Cracks while Pouring Concrete
Summary: Pouring concrete that fights cracking is possible if you follow my tips. Watch the amount of water added to concrete as it can cause shrinkage. Those "decorative" lines in your concrete are there as control joints to keep concrete from cracking. Rebar or reinforcing steel and a solid base will help your concrete fight cracks.
DEAR TIM: Is there a magical trick or an incantation one has to recite to make sure ugly cracks don't appear in new concrete work? There must be something the contractors can do to minimize or eliminate cracks. Tell me it can be done? Marsha B., Fort Pierce, FL
DEAR MARSHA: I'm sorry to say that even the best voodoo princess can't guarantee you crack free concrete. Concrete is indeed a magical material when you think of it. It begins its life as a fluid or plastic material and then within a few hours it becomes solid. This transformation is actually a chemical reaction and the hardness occurs because billions of microscopic crystals grow in between the sand and rock particles to make up a solid matrix.
The trick is to persuade the concrete to crack where you want it to crack. You can do this by creating weak zones within the slab. Contractors call these control joints. To the average homeowner these joints look like decorative lines. The principal is to make the slab thinner by cutting a line in the slab or by removing actual material so that the concrete doesn't crack randomly. It is no different than creasing a piece of paper several times before you rip it apart. Do this and frequently you get a straight line when pulling the paper apart. Concrete reacts in the same way if you make the cut or the line deep enough.
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But concrete masons often fail to do this. The control joint depth needs to be a minimum of one fourth the slab thickness. If the slab is four inches thick, the control joint needs to be a minimum of one inch deep. Frequently the tool a mason uses only cuts a line 5/8 inch deep. If the contractor chooses to saw cut the joint, he should frequently check the depth of the saw blade to insure that the saw cut line meets or exceeds the minimum depth.
Cracks can also be minimized before the concrete is poured. The ground beneath the slab needs to be solid. Don't pour concrete over trenches that were filled with uncompacted material. If a utility line trench passes under a driveway or sidewalk, be sure the contractor fills this portion of the trench with self-compacting gravel or a special lower cost mixture of concrete, sand and fly ash. Soil should be compacted with machines that eliminate air pockets within the soil. Concrete will crack readily if subjected to tension forces. This is exactly what happens if a car drives over concrete that is bridging a hollow spot in the soil.
Reinforcing steel is also a great preventative crack control measure. This steel holds the concrete together and is often 100 times stronger in tension than the actual concrete itself. If your contractor uses reinforcing steel be sure it is suspended within the concrete and not laying on the soil before the pour. Steel at the bottom of a slab is virtually useless.
You can also order concrete that contains millions of polypropylene fibers. These fibers knit the concrete together and help to prevent random cracking. They are often inexpensive and once the concrete is finished they tend to blend in with the finished surface.
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Comments:
Charles Smith 21 Dec 2007, 11:41
Tim:
Can you give me some insight about spacing of control joints for slab-on-ground concrete. How far apart should they be? Is there a formula for determining spacing? Are there accepted industry-wide standards regarding spacing of control joints? If so, what association has promulgated them and can you give me a specific reference(s)? Thanks C Smith, North Carolina
AsktheBuilder 21 Dec 2007, 14:00
Charles,
For larger slabs, I use 10-foot spacing both directions. For sidewalks, I look for 4-foot spacing. The depth of the joint is CRITICAL. The PCA and ACI have all of the standards.
Beryl 31 Mar 2008, 10:20
Pouring sidewalk, 25' X 3', do I need to install wire? I plan on placing
fiber board for the joints that are sold at Home Depot.
Thanks, Beryl
AsktheBuilder 01 Apr 2008, 06:00
Beryl,
I would. You better read all of my Concrete Installation columns before you go any further. Something tells me you do not have all the information you need for complete success.
Caressa 09 Apr 2008, 14:20
Hi,
I just poured a concrete piece for my art show today and just 4 to five hours later a crack is appearing.We set a fabricated sheet of rebar in this seven inch thick slab that is about 4 feet by four feet roughly. Is there a reason why it has cracked already? Will this affect the structural integrity in the near future? Is there something i can do to fix it?
AsktheBuilder 12 Apr 2008, 18:56
Caressa,
There are all sorts of possibilities. Sun, too much water in the mix, high temps, uncompacted fill, etc. You can grout the crack.
Sara 20 Aug 2008, 12:16
My boyfriend and I poured concrete steps for our house over the weekend.
We ended up going the quick-crete and gas powered mixer route rather than
having it delivered because the local concrete companies wouldn't deliver
such a small quantity 120 miles round trip. Near the top step we ran out
of concrete. My boyfriend ran into the nearest supply store (about an hour
round trip) and he got 10 more bags and we finished. Now there are gaps in
the concrete that have bubbles of cement covered aggregate in them. One is
on the side and the other across the front step. Needless to say we are
dissappointed. What is the best way to patch these? Should we let the
concrete we poured finish curing before trying reapirs?
Kelby 16 Sep 2008, 17:04
Tim,
Have you heard of a contractor pouring concrete directly on the ground without excavating first? The contractor insisted that he reinforced the concrete with rebar, however after asking friends about not excavating they were concerned about proper drainage and water freezing underneath the slab. Thanks!
bill davis 13 Oct 2008, 08:17
How thin a layer of concrete can I pour over my patio? I can't go too high
at the patio door without creating a step-up going onto the pation from
inside.
Johnny Johnson 10 Mar 2009, 23:16
What do you tell a customer when they ask you about guarantees from their
concrete cracking. Living and working in the northeast, I can only
guarantee that the concrete WILL crack, of course the customer doesn't want
to hear this. I have a much experience and know how and where to place
control joints, but dealing with the customers is a whole different
challenge, thanks to the internet some feel they and "their friends" know
more about concrete than the professionals.(You wish you could watch these
ones do the job themselves LoL) Better yet, what do you tell them when they
call you after winter and have ONE crack that missed the joints in a 1400
sq. ft. steel reinforced driveway? I appreciate your input.
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