Deck Piers and Footings

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By Tim Carter
©1993-2010 Tim Carter

Summary: Decks that need piers or footings must have them installed below the frost line. This will keep the piers from heaving up out of the ground from the strength of the freeze. Reinforcing steel will help keep the piers from cracking. 

DEAR TIM: I am building a deck and wonder how far down I have to dig into the ground for the wood deck post. I had been told it must extend to the freeze/frost line. What/where is that? What diameter should the hole be? Is there a need for steel in this pier? Joanne C., Hanover, PA

DEAR JOANNE: The freeze or frost line is the depth to which the soil freezes or has been known to freeze at some point in the past. It is absolutely critical that the foundations of buildings extend below this point in a soil profile. Except for a few arid locations, soils typically contain water and this water expands approximately nine percent in volume when it freezes. The resulting pressure created as the water expands is so great it can actually lift concrete slabs, house foundations and deck structures with as little effort as an Olympic weight lifter expends picking up his gym bag as he leaves the locker room.

Once a deck pier is installed, it is fairly difficult to determine how far it extends into the ground. This pier is twenty feet deep. I know because I installed it!
Once a deck pier is installed, it is fairly difficult to determine how far it extends into the ground. This pier is twenty feet deep. I know because I installed it!
The frost line depth is not consistent around the nation because there is such a dramatic difference in climate from state to state. The frost line in southern Florida is less than a foot, while in northern Minnesota it approaches 6 feet. The best source of information regarding your frost line depth is your local building department. These individuals perform daily inspections on jobs such as yours to ensure two things: the hole is the proper depth and the soil at the bottom of the hole is strong enough to support the concentrated loads being placed upon it.


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The diameter of the holes for your deck piers is not a number pulled out of the air. You may get the answer from your building inspector or you may have to consult with a seasoned architect or structural engineer. Decks, especially large ones, create significant concentrated loads within the soil. If you calculate the weight of the entire deck, the furniture placed on it and the combined weight of a large group of people who might be standing on it, you will be shocked at the number. Even a small deck might weigh in at 12,000 or more pounds.

If your deck is like most where it has two wooden deck posts and a rim joist that is bolted to the house, each of the two deck post holds up approximately 25 percent of the total weight. In your case, the soil under each deck post may be called upon to support 3,000 or more pounds without flinching.

The diameter of the hole will probably be no larger than 24 inches in diameter and may be as small as 12 inches. Larger diameter holes spread the weight out over more soil area. What is perhaps far more important is the shape of the hole as you dig it. All too often people dig post holes for deck piers and fence posts that look like an ice cream cone - the bottom of the hole being smaller than the top of the hole.

In fact, the shape should be the exact opposite. The bottom 25 percent of the pier hole should be larger than the top. As the frost drives deeper into the soil and tries to force the pier upwards, the flared base acts like the head of a screw or nail. For the pier to lift upwards the enlarged base would have to tear through the frozen soil. This is highly unlikely. The larger diameter base also helps spread the concentrated load over an even greater area.


Wood deck surfaces need to be cleaned and sealed to keep them in good condition. The cleaner I recommend is oxygen bleach.

Be sure to include two or three pieces of vertical reinforcing steel in the concrete as you pour the pier. This low-cost item adds enormous strength to piers that are taller than 30 inches. Long concrete piers poured on hillsides are subject to lateral or sideways soil pressure as the soil creeps downhill over time. The steel will help prevent the pier from cracking in two from this pressure.

If you want your wooden deck posts to be dead center in the middle of the concrete pier, then you need to be an expert surveyor or a person who builds deck like I do. Centering the deck posts is easy if you have the outline of the deck built and suspended in the air. This is very simple to do.

Start by attaching the rim joist to the house. Attach the two end joists of the deck to the rim joist using joist hangers. Temporarily support the other end of the joists with a piece of lumber making sure the joists are level. Nail the outer joist to the ends of the two joists that extend from the house. The outline of the deck is now complete. Check to ensure the deck outline box is both level and square.

Once the deck outline is square, drop a plumb bob from the corners to establish these points down at ground level. Use these reference points to easily locate the proper pier locations.





Comments:

Allen Kaplan
27 Nov 2007, 22:21
Could we use this concrete pier with the treated post inside for a shed support? We have already poured a 4 inch footer. How do we attache this to the footer?
ATB
28 Nov 2007, 07:48
Allen,
Maybe. I would drill one-half-inch diameter holes into the footer and hammer in half-inch rebar dowels. This will connect the pier to the footer. FYI: A 4-inch-thick footer is pretty lame.
James
10 Mar 2008, 12:20
Hi,

I am planning on building a deck this spring and have a question concerning the footings. I am in an area where the frost line is 5-6 feet but I have bedrock only 3 under the soil. I was wondering how to attach the footings to the bedrock ??
AsktheBuilder
13 Mar 2008, 08:15
James,
I would be inclined to drill into the rock and insert steel dowels. Then I would pour the concrete pier that ends up above grade.
Paula
29 Mar 2008, 20:16
Hi,

We are in MN and built deck to city specifications (48 in deep piers). This winter 07'-08' our deck has risen and pulled the house up about 3 inches. Do you have a suggestion on what to put around the posts to keep the ice from grabbing on and picking up the piers?
AsktheBuilder
30 Mar 2008, 17:32
Paula,
Ooooops. You should have read my past pier columns before this...... You would have discovered the trick to make them fatter at the bottom of the hole. You need to now make the deck so it is not part of the house. You may have to install new piers.
Dave N
31 Mar 2008, 11:46
I bought a house 2 years ago that is 17 years old now. There is an existing deck that is 12ft deep by 22ft wide, off the second floor. I believe the supports for the deck are undersized. There are (3) 4" x 4" posts that are set in the ground that hold up the deck without a truss support. Each corner has a post and then the is one in the middle. All 3 are at the very end of the deck. I want to add 3 or 4 new 6" x 6" posts with a truss that carries the load perpendicular to the joists. My question is what is the best method for setting the posts? Dig holes below frost level and set the post in the ground and cement in place OR pour cement piers in the holes to grade and set the posts on the piers?
AsktheBuilder
01 Apr 2008, 06:07
Dave,
I discuss this in some detail in other Deck-Construction columns. Read those to discover some sweet tips.
Brian
24 Apr 2008, 23:29
Hi, looking for advice on how to correct a heaving deck post that was set at about 48" deep in Michigan where the building department recommends a minimum depth of 42"...I've dug out around the post and verified this depth and removed the dirt and concrete that was in the hole. Now the hole keeps filling with about 2 feet of water in about 10-12 hours...I bail it out and it refills rather quickly. I'd like your opinion as to what may fix this condition. Thank you.
Brian
27 Apr 2008, 10:54
Some further clarification on my earlier note...I've shop vacuumed out the water in the hole several times and it appears as though either there is a natural spring or something that fills the hole to within 2 feet of the ground level in less than 6 hours. I'm wondering how to reset the post in this type of soil and ground water condition? Please provide your advice. Thank you.

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