Water in Heating Ducts

Follow Me on Twitter.

By Tim Carter
©1993-2010 Tim Carter

Summary: Water in heating ducts is more common than you might imagine. Some houses built on top of concrete slabs have the heating and air conditioning ducts buried in the ground under the concrete. Water can enter these heating ducts when it rains heavily as the water table starts to rise and pushes water up into the soil under the slab and then into the ducts. It is easy to remove the water and to permanently stop the water from entering the ducts. You have to divert the ground water away from the house with a special outdoor trench drain.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I live in a one-story home built on a slab. The home was built 30 years ago and we are the fourth owners. A few days ago I heard a bubbling noise coming from one of the floor heating vents. I looked inside the vent and there was standing water! We pumped out water for two hours but the vents filled back up. Where is the water coming from? How can we stop it? Do you think this problem was known by the previous owner and if so, do we have any recourse? Lynn F., Norcross, GA

DEAR LYNN: Oh my goodness. You have got a serious problem or two. This sub-surface water can not only cause enormous problems for people who own slabs, but those who have houses on crawlspaces and those built with full basements. Many people who own a slab house think they are immune to problems caused by subsurface water. But I can't begin to tell you how many emails I receive from people who have your identical problem: flooded buried heating and cooling ducts.

Use a wet-dry vacuum to suck out water from the ducts under a concrete slab. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter
Use a wet-dry vacuum to suck out water from the ducts under a concrete slab. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter
The problem is happening because water often moves sideways through soil instead of straight down. If you lived in parts of Florida or other parts of the USA where the soil is extremely sandy and drains like water passing through a cooking colander, we would not be having this conversation. But my guess is that your home is built on soil that has a certain percentage of clay.

When rainwater falls onto the ground it readily passes through the topsoil as this upper level of the soil frequently contains lots of air voids. But as you go deeper into clay soils, the soil becomes extremely dense and often water is blocked from going down. The water then starts to move sideways through the soil always flowing downhill and often pops to the surface as a spring. This water is the fuel that creates creeks, streams and rivers.

If you look outside your home and imagine the vast amount of soil that might be higher in elevation than your house, you might be amazed to learn that there are hundreds of thousands of gallons of water in the soil much of which is moving directly towards your home. This water can easily find its way under the slab and into the ductwork beneath the slab. It is no wonder the vents filled back up after you pumped them out.

Anyone who suffers from subsurface water that is invading any part of a house can stop it in almost all cases by capturing the water outdoors and then redirecting this water to the lowest part of the lot. Think of how gutters work on the roof of a house. Gutters capture the vast amount of water on a roof, channel it to various outlet holes within the gutter and then this water is piped away from the roof. Ideally rainwater from a roof should be piped far away from a house and not be allowed to drop out of downspouts onto simple splash blocks adjacent to a foundation.

You can capture the subsurface water by digging a trench around the outside of your home. This trench should be placed about 6 to 8-feet away from the edge of your home. Dig this trench 6 inches wide and between 18 to 24 inches deep. The bottom of the trench should be parallel with the soil as it goes around your home. The trench should be extended away from the house and needs to end up at or near the lowest point of elevation on your building lot.

As the trench starts away from the house, make the bottom of the trench nearly level. As the ground falls away from the house, the trench will become shallower and eventually the bottom of the trench will be level with the top of the soil.

You place a 1 or 2-inch layer of washed 1-inch diameter gravel in the bottom of the trench and then place a 4-inch diameter perforated pipe in the trench. Fill the trench with more 1-inch washed gravel until you are within 1 or 2 inches of the top of the trench. You can place pieces of sod over the gravel.

The subsurface water will now pass through the soil and enter the trench. Because it is easier to pass through gravel instead of soil, the water will drop down to the pipe. There it will enter the pipe and be transported rapidly away from your home to the lowest part of your lot. The underside of your slab will never be saturated with water again.

If your state has a property disclosure law and the previous owners knew of this serious defect, they may have been obligated to bring this flaw to your attention. You should call the Realtor you used in the transaction to see if there was a property disclosure form that was not given to you.

You can also call your local fire department. Just about every fire department in the nation keeps very good records of each time they leave the station and are asked to put out a fire or help in a situation. If they were ever called to the house to help pump out the vents, you know the previous owner knew there was a problem. Well there is always the possibility your local fire department has mystic extra-sensory-perception powers!

Water in buried heating and cooling ducts can cause serious health problems. The water in the ducts can initiate the growth of mold. Each time the heating or cooling system operates, the air moving through the ducts can blast millions of mold spores throughout the house.

Although expensive to do, it might be a good idea to investigate the feasibility of moving the ducts into the attic space. The one-time expense may be a great way to protect the health of you and your family.





Comments:

Ron Shanabarger
25 Nov 2007, 14:16
Hi Tim,
I have the same problem that was just described about the water in the duct work. I just purchased this house about 1 year ago and last winter I noticed the water in the duct work, my wife and I used a wet vac to suck it out and dump it. I know that the people that we bought the house from had the same problem but did not tell us about it. We called the realtor and she said that there is nothing that can be done about this and that we signed a disclosure taking the house as is but were never told about the problem. Can you tell me of any company's that do this kind of work so I can call them for an estimate? Thank you.
ATB
25 Nov 2007, 15:45
Ron,
All you need to solve this is one of my linear french drains. Go to the Drainage section of the website and read all of the articles. I guarantee you that if you install the system as I describe, you will *never* have to vacuum the ducts again.
Dawn
01 Feb 2008, 07:09
Yesterday the city turned off the water on my street. I was unaware of this initially so I went on about my normal routine in getting ready for work by trying to take a bath. Of course thw water didn't come on and I forgot to turn it back off. So, I went to work. Of course when I came back home the water was running and had been running I imagine for at least 4-6 hours. It flooded the bathroom and the water had nowhere to go but down my heating ducts. My basement had about a centimeter or two of standind water in it and water was dripping from the ducts. The water drained from the basement within about an hour, but now my heater is blowing but nothing is coming out. Please tell me this problem can be fixed without having to buy a whole new furnace. :-)
AsktheBuilder
01 Feb 2008, 07:52
Dawn,
You just need to call a heating service technician. I doubt you will need a new furnace. Maybe your pilot light went out if it has one.
Ceci
27 Feb 2008, 20:37
So a follow-up question. If you do move the ducts into the attic, how do you properly abandon the ducts under the house?
AsktheBuilder
02 Mar 2008, 14:27
Ceci,
You could fill the visible portion with expanding foam.
joanne
04 Mar 2008, 10:14
I have the same problem with water in my ducts, but I live in a townhome and I am connected to my neighbor on one side (we dont have an association). Will the drains still work for me, or do they have to go all the way around the home??
AsktheBuilder
08 Mar 2008, 17:00
Joanne,
The drain needs to go around the house.
GB
10 Jun 2008, 10:34
Hi,

I noticed the same problem not long ago. What puzzles me is that my home is elevated about 18 inches above the ground, and the bottom of the ventilation pipes is at least 6 inches above the ground. So I do not understand how water could get in. Is it possible that during heavy rains water gets into the piping via the gaz exhaust on the roof. When it rains, I do hear water dripping into that exhaust. Thanks!

GB
Miriam
10 Jun 2008, 13:34
What is the most cost effective way to take care of the rainwater getting into the ducts? Closing the ground ducts and going overhead or installing a trench/french/foundation drain? What is the most health concsious? I'm worried because the ductwork is now rusted from the water entering the ductwork and even after the ducts dry out from suctioning and extreme drought season, that rust is still in the duct work. Or is that rust actually mold? I'm a renter and the landlord just didn't seem so concerned about this problem when it started happening last year. Now its back and my whole family seems to be sick with nasal and chest congestions and infections.

     View all comments
*Name:
Email:
Notify me about new comments on this page
Hide my email
*Text:
Security Image:

Visual CAPTCHA


 
Contact us to Advertise on this site.
Have a Suggestion?
Do it right, not over!

Ask the Builder Comment Help

Thanks for stopping by! The Comments Section of my AsktheBuilder.com website are a place for you to share stories about how you've solved a similar problem at your home or carry on a conversation with other visitors. I tried, at the beginning, to be part of the conversation, but there were too many questions being asked and it was impossible for me to keep up and get my regular work finished each day.

If you want to ask me a direct question, you should go to the Ask Tim page of this website.

Helpful Comment Tips: If you need help with a problem, please try these things now before you type in a comment. You could discover your answer in just minutes.
Don't show this alert again.