Building A Deck

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: There are many methods for building a deck. Deck construction, especially attaching deck beams to wooden posts, must consider the amount of weight that will be supported by those posts. The wrong method is just asking for a deck collapse. Your deck plans should include notching the wooden support posts. A proper deck design will increase deck safety.

DEAR TIM: I am building a deck soon, and need some deck-building tips. What is the best way to connect a wood beam to the wooden deck posts? Deck construction is not my strong suit, and I want to make sure the deck does not collapse. Doug F., Harleysville, PA

DEAR DOUG: I am not certain there is a best way. My guess is you could put several structural engineers, a few seasoned architects, and some crusty deck-building carpenters in a room and come up with a wide variety of "best" solutions. I can tell you several of the methods I have used over the years that have worked really well for me, and I will gladly share with you a method I would avoid at all costs.

When I go to friends' houses and open houses, I am often shocked to see how do-it-yourselfers and even paid contractors attach deck beams to wooden posts. What astonishes me is the lack of forethought into the amount of weight that is supported by two simple deck posts. Anyone who has lifted a single 2x12 treated-lumber floor joist knows that the cumulative weight of a deck can easily be in the thousands of pounds. Then imagine what happens when you have a large party and people are shoulder to shoulder on the deck.

Many decks require beams be attached to supporting posts. Notching a wood post to accept a beam is but one way to make this connection. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Many decks require beams be attached to supporting posts. Notching a wood post to accept a beam is but one way to make this connection. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
The bottom line is that you can have multiple tons of weight constantly trying to fall to the ground under the influence of gravity. Each year, there are people who get seriously injured and even die from deck collapses. The reasons for the structural failures are many, but there is no reason for them to be related to the beam/deck post connection.

The beam you are working with often supports half or more of the weight of the deck, and anything that will eventually be on the deck. The floors joists, decking, furniture and people rest on the beam, and transfer the load to this beam along its entire length.

Frequently, I see people who have taken a beam or two joists and simply nailed or bolted these parts to the sides of the post. The entire weight of the deck is born by four or more simple bolts or nails. These fasteners may not be designed to handle the weight. If the lumber dries and shrinks, this connection can become significantly compromised.

I prefer to have deck beams rest directly on a shelf or notch in a slightly oversized wooden-deck post. This notch is easy to create with a standard circular saw and a traditional hand saw. Many decks beams are comprised of two 2x12 deck joists that can carry the design load. The joists don't have to be placed immediately next to one another to support the load of the deck. They can be spaced several inches apart with an air space that helps prevent rot.

I have created this connection in the past by using a 6x6 inch wooden deck post. These posts normally measure five and five-eighths inches square. The thickness of the two floor joists is a little over three inches, so when you create two notches on opposite sides of the post, you are still left with a beefy two and one-half inches of post material. This remaining tongue of wood extends to the top of the beam.

Through bolts that use washers and nuts permanently attach the beam to the notched post. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Through bolts that use washers and nuts permanently attach the beam to the notched post. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
The two parts of the beam are through bolted to the wood post to make a strong and permanent connection. The entire weight of the deck rests on the bottom of the notches in the post, instead of hanging precariously on four or more bolts.

You can also buy code-approved metal brackets that allow you to connect wood deck beams to wooden posts. I have used these when they are specified by an architect or a homeowner. These brackets are easy to work with, and will do a good job of making the connection.

Never guess on the beam size for a deck. If you are unsure of the size and span, have it specified by a residential structural engineer or architect. The small cost to get the right structural plan is well worth it. You also need to be highly concerned with how the deck attaches to the house, and know all about important diagonal bracing both under the deck and possibly at the beam/post connection.

Many decks have collapsed when a group of people starts dancing on the deck. The decks develop a harmonic movement that causes them to sway back and forth. If not properly braced, a deck can rack and collapse with little or no warning.



Comments:

Wendy
02 Jun 2008, 14:35
Hi Tim:

Thanks for all you past help. I have read your articles about decks and can't find the answer to my question.
Different contractors are telling me
different things. Which way do the boards on a deck go? Should the cupped
lines at the end of the board point up
or down?
I just had to replace a three-year old
deck and was told that part of the reason was that the boards were upside down. Now the current contractor is telling me the new boards are upside down! They are currently cupped down.
Which way is correct?
Thanks so much!
Gary
19 Aug 2008, 14:05
Tim, I'm working on building a deck and I would like to know if I can bolt a 2x on the outside of my post and set my joists between the ledger board and the 2x on the post. I wanted be able to drop an eight foot 2x between the two. Would this work and if so what would be the best way to attach the joist to the 2x
Brian
24 Oct 2008, 15:35
Hi Tim:
I've got an "upper deck" that's supported by a ledger that's bolted into the sill box and a triple beam rests atop my 6x6 posts (12' away from the house), so I think I'm heeding your words of caution in resting my beam directly ON the posts but... now I'm building a lower ground-level deck directly beneath it and, while I have bolted a ledger into the slab at the "house end", I would really like to take advantage of the posts that are already in place to support the "away from house end" that will sit no higher than 2'. I was going to straddle the posts (using fasteners) with two 2x10s but, reading your article, I'm sure you wouldn't approve. My town bldg dept advised me to notch the posts front and back and set my front/back beams inside the notches...but I'm very nervous about removing about 3 inches from the now-sturdy 6x6s that support my 14'x14' upper deck that's overbuilt with joists 12" on center. What do YOU think about removing that much material from the bottom (18" high) of my posts that stand about 13' tall in all and support that upper deck? Thanks.
Brian
jennifer
13 Jan 2009, 18:48
I'm building a deck that will sit approx2' off the ground. I'm using 2" x 8" that will be tied into the existing home with joist hangers. As the deck only goes out 10' from the house do I have to have a center support beam?
Daniel Strickland
14 Jan 2009, 12:41
I read where you would use 6 x 6 posts for stability on the load bearing posts, would using a 4 x 4 with 2 x 4 boards nailed to the load bearing sides work as well?
JOSE
04 Mar 2009, 21:32
HI JENNIFER,
USING 2"X8"JOIST AND ATTACHING A LEDGER BOARD IN TO THE HOUSE THAT WOULD WORK, WHAT YOU CAN ALSO DO IS TO CANTILEVER 2'FT. MAKE SURE THAT YOU ATTACH THE LEDGER BOARD WITH LAG-SCREW. GETHING A BUILDING PERMIT IS A MUST BECAUSE IT WILL BE INSPECTED BY A COUNTY INSPECTOR AND THEY WILL GUIDE YOU TO BUILD A SAFE DECK ACCORDING TO BUILDING CODES.
Phil
29 Apr 2009, 21:29
Hi Tim:
I have an existing deck 14 X 14 and want to build a deck above it to my bedroom door wall. The deck was already here and looks like there are 4X4's for the foundation. Can I use 4X4's for the upper deck (it will be 6ft X 14ft and can I mount them directly to the existing deck? Or do I need to make additional holes and use a 6X6. I am planing on a ledger board and 2 poles. Thanks!
Tim Lambe
10 May 2009, 14:06
Dear Tim
I am replaceing the floor of my roof deck that is 16x30. It is on a rubber membrane flat roof. It is only 2" off the roof on 2x6s and therefore the stain kept peeling from on the wood. What is the best material to replace the wood with; composite, aluminum or vinyl? Should I be concerned about the weight of the material?

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