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Grouting Tile

By Tim Carter
©1993-2008 Tim Carter
Summary: Grouting tile can take a toll on your knees and back without proper protection. Discover how to grout tile that will last. Ceramic tile grout is available in several forms. Tile grouting requires the proper type and the proper mixture. Follow these tips and with a little grouting practice, you will get great results on your ceramic tile flooring or ceramic wall tile.

DEAR TIM: Grouting tile is a job I need to tackle before my relatives come over for a holiday party. I don't know how to grout tile, but feel it is easy. What type of tile grout should I use for my ceramic floor tile? Is mixing grout difficult? How much grout should be mixed at one time? Can you share your top grouting tips? Amy H. Oakdale, MN

DEAR AMY: There is not a doubt in my mind that you will succeed grouting your ceramic floor tile. You have asked many of the right questions concerning grouting tile. Although the process of grouting tile is not like laying heavy concrete blocks, I can think of easier jobs to do. If you protect your knees, back and skin on your hands, you should survive the job with very few aches and pains.

The consistency of the grout is extremely important. If it is too wet when mixed, there is a good chance the grout job might fail over time. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Grout that is used for ceramic tile is available in many different forms, but the two most common are wall grout and sanded floor grout. Wall grout is usually colored Portland cement. It is a fine powder that sometimes has dried acrylic modifiers that help it to stick to ceramic tile. Wall grout should be used on ceramic tile joints that are one-eighth inch or less in width.

Ceramic floor tile is often installed with grout joints much larger than one-eighth inch. It is not uncommon to see grout joints as wide as three-eighths inch. Wall grout can shrink when used to fill joints this wide, so sanded grout is used. Sanded grout is a blend of wall grout and fine particles of silica sand. The silica sand makes the grout very durable to wear and tear and takes up room within the grout so as to prevent unsightly shrinkage cracks as the grout dries and cures.

I find it fairly easy to mix either wall or sanded grouts. The trick is to only mix about as much as you can fit into a half-gallon milk container, maybe less. You may discover that when grouting a floor, you can mix two or three times this amount, but for the first batch, mix little until you learn how to grout. If you are doing this job solo, then you need to realize that you will spend time removing excess grout from the floor tile and striking the joints with a grout sponge. As you do this tedious work, the mixed grout can harden in the bucket causing you to waste any grout not placed in a grout joint.

Mixing grout to the right consistency is very important. You want the grout to be workable so it can be spread with a rubber float, but it should not be so wet that it resembles moist, runny cake icing. I feel the best consistency for either sanded floor or wall grout is when the grout is stiff enough that it can be formed almost into a ball and hold its shape.

When the grout is this stiff, the grout paste fills the joints to the top without sagging or creating small depressions when wiped with the grout sponge. Grout joints that are fully filled, look better, clean easier and they protect the fragile edges of the ceramic tile.

Since you are a beginner, the most important tip I can give is for you to practice grouting on a piece of tile-backer board in your garage. Install some scraps of the floor tile or a cheap tile that is similar to the one on your floor. Attach this tile to the piece of backer board that is just laying on the garage floor. The next day, mix some grout and apply it. Wait a few minutes and remove the excess grout and grout film with a grout sponge. Get a feel for the process before experimenting on your real floor.

Always pull the rubber grout float across the grout lines at a 45-degree angle. This prevents the edge of the float from dropping down into a grout joint and scooping out grout from the joint. Remove as much excess grout from the tile surfaces as possible with the rubber grout float. When removing the grout film from the tile, use a grout sponge that has rounded corners, and be sure to squeeze out all excess water from the sponge before the sponge contacts the grout. Change the rinse water frequently.


The biggest cause for grout failure is water. Either too much is used to mix the grout or too much is used when removing the grout film from the surface of the tile. Excess water dilutes the amount of Portland cement in the grout. When this happens, the grout can turn to powder or simply crumble in a short amount of time.

You only want to grout as much tile as you can reach across. Kneeling on top of freshly grouted tile joints is not a great idea as you try to finish the floor. Think about where to start grouting the tile and how you will exit the room once you are finished.

Buy plenty of grout before you start the job. Be sure it is fresh, and absolutely make sure the grout is from the same batch or dye lot. To ensure perfect results, it is often a great idea to blend different bags of the dried grout together to make sure the finished color of the grout is uniform.






Comments

MAF
04 Jan 2008, 11:34
Would the same directions apply to regrouting floor tiles? Mine look horrible right now bec/ the grout is white and I would like to regrout it to a grayer tinted color. Also, is it necessary to complete the room in one go? Can I spread the grouting out over a few days?
AsktheBuilder
05 Jan 2008, 07:40
MAF,
Before you go to all of this work, why not try my Stain Solver? You will be amazed at how you can make the grout look fantastic in less than an hour!

www.StainSolver.com
MAF
07 Jan 2008, 13:45
Stain Solver may be a temporary solution but white grout on bathroom floor tile is just a big mistake for my household. To re=grout will be quite an undertaking especially w/ the small hex tiles. So can the re=grouting be spread out over a few days an area at a time or does it need to be done all at once? Please provide any other tips not mentioned in your grouting tile article above.

Thanks!
AsktheBuilder
07 Jan 2008, 16:43
MAF,
Grout all at once. Read all of the grouting columns here at my website.
Dino
23 Jan 2008, 21:34
The floor underneath the tile is unstable, but only in one section. The grout keeps cracking. How do I fix this problem?
AsktheBuilder
24 Jan 2008, 15:18
Dino,
Make the floor stable. Do whatever is necessary.
Connie
09 Feb 2008, 22:44
I have a problem. We just layed tile in our bathroom. We used distilled water (recommended by the store) followed the directions and our grout turned white. It is suppose to be a tan color. This was done 24 hours ago. Can I try and do the vinegar wash?
AsktheBuilder
10 Feb 2008, 07:57
Connie,
Stop ! ! ! Let's make sure the grout is the right color. The test to see if you bought the right color is did the grout dry to the same color as it was in the powder form *before* you added the water? Using distilled water should not be an issue. Using inexpensive grout with low-quality water-soluble pigments might be what is wrong. Did you buy a name-brand grout from a tile store, or did you buy a mystery grout from a home center??????
Blake
18 Feb 2008, 14:06
I have some cracks in the grout around the bathroom shower that seem to be due to the shrinkage over the last 3 months. What is the best method to repair or fill in those cracks?
Ronny Potts
22 Feb 2008, 02:44
I need to grout a tile countertop. What type of grout would be best. Should I use one of the additives in place of water? I want to do a good job on the countertop that will last and not stain easily. Thanks

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