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Kitchen Exhaust Fan

By Tim Carter
©1993-2008 Tim Carter
Summary: Kitchen exhaust fans have to be sized properly for your kitchen. Overhead exhaust fans capture the smoke and grease mist that could coat your kitchen surfaces. Some of the cook exhaust fans come with built-in lights.

DEAR TIM: My new kitchen plans call for a new kitchen exhaust fan. To be more precise, a kitchen hood exhaust fan has been suggested. Is one kitchen stove exhaust fan more effective than another? Years ago the down-draft exhaust fans were popular. What exhaust fan is in your kitchen if you don't mind me asking? How do I make sure the kitchen exhaust fan I select will adequately ventilate my kitchen? Where does the replacement air enter the house? Kathleen K., Exeter, NH

DEAR KATHLEEN: You are asking all of the right questions about your new kitchen exhaust fan. All too often, I see builders and remodelers fall down here. Either the fan installed is not powerful enough for the size of the kitchen, the installer fails to vent it properly, or overlooks the need for makeup air.

You really need a good kitchen exhaust-fan system if you cook greasy foods and boil foods. The cooking process often creates both visible particles as well as an invisible aerosol mist of grease and smoke that can coat the surfaces of your kitchen if they are not vacuumed and exhausted to the exterior of your home. Even with a great exhaust fan, you can still develop a fine coating of grease on light fixtures, cabinets, walls and ceilings. This is the voice of experience talking.

PHOTO CAPTION: This high-powered kitchen exhaust fan is tucked up under a decorative hood. It is sized properly for the large kitchen. IMAGE CREDIT: Tim Carter
I prefer the overhead kitchen exhaust fans rather than the down-draft ones simply because hot air rises. Why not use that physical axiom to your advantage and collect the cooking vapors with a hood?

My kitchen exhaust fan is matched to the size of my kitchen. The fan is a powerful three-speed model that has brilliant halogen bulbs that are built-in to the fan. There are three removable grease-collector screens that we take out regularly and put into our dishwasher. When the fan is on the highest fan speed, it sucks 1,100 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM) from above our cooktop and pushes it outside.

The fan is connected to metal ductwork that extends from the fan all the way to the roof of my home. Each joint in the ductwork was carefully taped with special metal-foil duct tape by my ventilation contractor. It is very important that no air seeps from the duct to other parts of the house. If that were to happen, hidden spaces in your home could become grease-covered posing a significant fire hazard.

The exhaust from my fan exits the roof through a special roof cap that is made to handle that much air flow. It was easy to install so that rain does not enter the house.

Sizing a kitchen exhaust fan is fairly easy. Many experts simply measure the square footage of the kitchen floor and multiply that by two to arrive at the cubic-feet-per-minute of output for the fan. For example, since my kitchen is 350 square feet, I would need a fan that must exhaust at least 700 CFM of air flow. My fan can do that on its middle speed, and the highest speed produces the massive 1,100 CFM of air movement.

You are really observant to recognize that large kitchen exhaust fans like these have a voracious appetite for air. In today's modern homes sucking that much air out of a house can cause serious back drafting issues if a makeup air inlet is not installed. Back drafting can cause deadly carbon monoxide to be drawn back down a chimney or metal vent pipe and/or smoke or smoke odors from fireplaces.

Newer homes are so airtight that when air is sucked from a house by a powerful fan, it replaces that air with air from outdoors through the path of least resistance. That path could be a furnace or water-heater vent, a chimney, or other vent that is open to the atmosphere. Installing a makeup-air vent solves this problem in almost all cases as outside air can easily flow through this device into the home.


Before you buy a kitchen exhaust fan, it is always a good idea to get the written installation instructions from the manufacturer. These documents will often contain sizing guidelines as well as detailed step-by-step methods the manufacturer wants you to follow to keep the warranty in force. Reading these ensures that the fan you are considering is the right size and that you can satisfy the minimum installation requirements.

Resist the temptation to use smaller ducting for the fan. Some people think that the size of the exhaust piping is not that important. Believe me, you must use the exact pipe as called for, and be sure that you do not exceed the maximum length of pipe allowed.

Pay particular attention to the bends in the exhaust piping. The written instructions will almost always tell you to avoid 90-degree bends, and how many can be put in the exhaust piping. These hard bends in the pipe create significant restrictions that make it hard for the fan to exhaust the air from your kitchen.







Comments

Robert Johnson
06 May 2008, 08:58
Your 1st picture in the article covered several lines of text. Let me know if this is my fault (screen resolution, etc) or just an editing mistake. You mentioned the need to provide replacement air. Please elaborate on proper size, placement, and locations. How do you keep cold outside air from filling your kitchen to replace the exhausted air?

Thank You
Charles
06 May 2008, 10:50
Tim, I see 2 major problems with your answer to this lady's question:

1. Range hoods should be sized to the range, not to the kitchen. There is absolutely no need for any residential range to require 1000 CFM. About 150 CFM is adequate.

2. There is no such thing as a passive air inlet that admits 1000 CFM. There isn't even one that admits 150 CFM. If you want to prevent backdrafting, you must open a window.
Gene
06 May 2008, 15:44
Tim/Charles; there are problems with both of your approaches to the kitchen exhaust fan:

1. The exhaust should be designed with the intent as a commercial kitchen exhaust system.
2. Although low cfm will exhaust vapors, the real culprit and fire hazard is grease. That is why the velocity should be high. Generally, something in the vicinity of 1,500cfm is ideal, This has the effect of scrubbing the grease off the walls of the duct. Unfortunately, this "air scrubbing" isn't quite enough, but; it helps.
3. As much as possible, the duct should be seamless, preferrably welded so it is watertight at all joints. Remember, build it as if to expect a fire. Also, install it with the same clearances and protection from combustibles as for a red hot wood burning stove going through your walls, floors, roof, etc.
4. Make-up air works well passively if a separate air supply duct introduces the air at the hood-air boundary. This allows the exhaust fan to pull the air into the exhaust stream while minimizing the amount of heating or cooling energy loss...it's more energy efficient.

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