Shower Head
DEAR TIM: I need to fix a leaking shower head. Is it difficult to replace shower heads? At first I was just going to fix the leak, but my wife wants a new shower head. Are there some secret tips you can share that will make it appear as if a master plumber did the job? Alan L., Jackson, TN
DEAR ALAN: I'll never forget my first shower head. I thought to myself that the job appeared simple, and was I ever wrong. I ended up with two leaks, a ruined shower head because I used the wrong tool and my parents banned me from doing experimental plumbing in their home.
Shower heads are like so many other home-improvement projects. It's not that the job is hard, it is that there are just some simple steps you need to take to ensure the job turns out as if a pro did it. In the case of a shower head, your biggest concern should be creating a leak behind the wall where the gooseneck pipe connects to the vertical water-supply pipe that is in the wall.
When you unscrew the existing shower head from the gooseneck pipe, there is a chance you can break the seal where that pipe connects to the water-supply line. The resulting leak can be large or a very sinister slow leak that only produces one or two drops of water with each shower. Either one can cause thousands of dollars of damage over time.
Many years ago the mistake I made when I installed my new shower head and gooseneck pipe is not using a pipe sealant on the gooseneck pipe threads. I was a very young man and had no idea what pipe dope or thread sealant was. If you do not use it, water will stream from the connection like an April shower!
There are at least two popular pipe-thread sealants. One is Teflon tape and another is a thick compound you brush on the male threads of the gooseneck. You need to put this sealant on both ends of the gooseneck pipe. If you fail to do this where you attach the shower head, water will leak from the connection and spray you and the walls inside the shower.
It really pays to use the right tools when replacing a shower head. The mistake I made was using a pipe wrench on the shower head. I didn't realize the fixture was made of chrome-plated brass. The teeth of the wrench ruined the finish on the shower head. If you look at most shower heads, you will discover at least two flat areas that are parallel with one another. These are made for an adjustable wrench that, when tightened correctly, will not mar the finish on the new shower head.
After you install the gooseneck pipe but before you install the new shower head, you should turn on the water in the shower. This will flush out any small debris and excess pipe sealant that may have gotten into the pipe. Failure to do this important step can clog the small flow-restrictor holes that are inside virtually every shower head. It can be a huge task to clean these out if they get clogged.
Don't over tighten the new shower head on the gooseneck pipe. Once it is hand tight, it should only take one complete turn to complete a leak-free connection. If you can't turn it that far, stop and test the connection. You can damage the shower head if you tighten it too much.
Talk to different professional plumbers about pipe-tread sealants and you will get polarized views as if you had entered into a political debate. Some plumbers prefer Teflon tape, while others love the brush-on pipe sealants. I happen to use the brush-on sealant that contains Teflon. That way I can be neutral in one of those discussions.
If you decide to use the Teflon tape, there is a special way to install it on the male threads of the pipe. If you install it wrong, the tape will unwind off the pipe as you turn the pipe into the fitting behind the wall. You may think you have a sealed joint when in fact you have a potential Niagara Falls.
One way to install Teflon tape that has worked for me for years is to use a piece of tape that will wind around the pipe threads three or four times. Hold the end of the pipe that you are wrapping so it is pointing at your face. Wrap the Teflon in a clockwise fashion so the threads are covered. It is that simple.
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Comments:Welcome! I, Tim
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Earl Shaffer 15 Aug 2008, 07:41
Tim,
I suppose I could be classified as a mediocre bench carpenter. My skills are about in the middle class and I mostle make smaller things for inside the house, furniture, wall hangings etc. My question is how to figure in my time and labor into what I charge. I would love to recieve a reply, thanks Earl
Marianne Barkman 15 Aug 2008, 23:45
Hello Bob!
I'm new to this site and have a question. I've rented an apartment and there is a problem with ventilation in the kitchen; there isn't any. The hob cover only recycles and the air doesn't go anywhere. The central heating/boiler is placed underneath the sink in front of the window and the flue is right under the window. So if I need hot water to wash up or have the central heating on in winter, I need to close the window because of the carbonmynoxide air flowing into the kitchen. I've asked around and the best thing seems to create a plastic shield onto the outside flue so that air can be sucked in and the cm can be excreted. Also to put an extractor fan ... in and out in the wall. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks, Marianne
GMG 13 Oct 2008, 19:01
while soldering the pipe joint to the gooseneck pipe that holds the shower
head, because I am not expierenced in soldering I happened to leave a lot
of melted down solder on the main copper pipe. Would this cause any
corosion in the future. I really wanted to know before I seal the wall and
put back the ceramic tile pieces I took out to do the soldering. Thanks for
your help
Linda 19 Apr 2009, 11:21
My house has the old fashioned connection of a ball built into the
gooseneck. Therefore I cannot simply change a shower head. What can be
done to resolve this? I'd like to know before bringing in a plumber to
solve.
I have to manually clean the holes in the unit and soak the head in vinegar water to clean it frequently. Thank you very much, Linda
ken 03 Jul 2009, 13:05
I have replaced the shower head in my bathroom twice and it still leaks. I
followed all the advice of Tim in 'Ask the Builder.' I have replace other
shower heads and they have not leaked, so I think it is installed
correctly. Any advice on what the problem might be?
ashok 26 Jul 2009, 00:04
Dear Timm,
Today after shower, I was trying to shut off the shower but somehow was not able to shut off completely. I tried to push the knob in allthe directions but no luck & the water is still running. Please advice me how should I fix this. I will appreciate all the advice & guidance. Sincerely, Ashok
M Ashley 05 Sep 2009, 19:26
I am wondering how long it normally takes to remove and install a shower
valve - I think my plumber is charging us for too much time.
Also how much time would it take to install a diverter. Just install not remove. He is charging me over four hours for both jobs. This is for labor only.
renate 11 Sep 2009, 01:44
Hi Tim,
My problem is like the one Linda mentioned. My home was built in the early 1970's and the goose neck has a ball. We have tried several different things and because of the valve within it being broken. Water streams from this old shower head like a fire hydrant thus eroding 3 caulking jobs! We want to install a shower head that originates overhead pointing down to keep the caulk around the shower floor perimeter.
Tim Gumpf 15 Oct 2009, 17:02
Is there a special elbow used to screw the shower gooseneck behind the
wall.
pete b 08 Dec 2010, 15:08
House built in 1972 has a ball joint shower arm...Tried to use an adapter
so I could use a regular shower head but the side that is supposed to
connect to the arm is too small.. Don't like the idea of trying to remove
the old arm because it goes thru the fiberglass tub surround and there is
no access fron the rear.. THis could open a bucket of worms.........Can you
tell me where I can get a new head or larger adapter ??
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