Deck Railing
Summary: Your deck railing can fail if your deck construction was not done in the proper order. When building a deck, the deck railings should be painted prior to construction.
DEAR TIM: The deck railing at my home needs to be replaced, because it rotted prematurely. How long should deck railings last? I love my wood-deck railing, but wonder if I should replace it with a vinyl-deck railing or even an aluminum deck railing. I have been on other decks that are old, and the deck railings are in excellent shape. What is the secret to long deck railing life? Kate M., Bean Station, TN
DEAR KATE: What a shame your deck railing gave up the ghost before its time. I have installed new deck railings on homes just like yours where excellent lumber failed. In almost all cases, the wood rot was caused by one or two problems. Poor deck railing design is one reason, and poor workmanship is the other. Combine them both on the same job, and you will have a mess in short order. A well-built wood deck railing can last decades.
Years ago, a neighbor of mine hired me to replace a porch deck railing that surrounded a flat roof that they could access. The railing had been painted numerous times, and was constructed with redwood. Redwood is a fantastic wood for outdoor projects as it contains natural preservatives. But even redwood can rot.
To prevent the same thing from happening again, I took the time to precut as many of the pieces of the new railing as possible. This was not as hard as you might think. The pieces that needed to be cut at the last moment were minimal. It was easy to predetermine the length of all of the posts, pickets and horizontal railing components.
I instructed my neighbors to have their painter come and pre-paint all of the deck lumber including the longer pieces that I still needed to cut. Each piece of redwood was primed and second coated with paint on all surfaces and cut edges. The end grain of each piece really soaked up the paint, and the painter coated many of these places three times. Once the deck railing was built, the painter had to come and do the final coat of paint.
By applying the paint over every square inch of wood surface, it stopped water from soaking into the wood deck-railing parts. Water that enters wood through the end grain or is allowed to hide where pieces of wood overlap can start the rotting process quickly. This deck railing is now nearly twenty-years old and I can't see one place where the paint is peeling. Peeling paint on deck railings is usually a sign that water is entering the wood.
When I rebuilt the railing for my neighbor, any pre-painted pieces of wood we had to cut, we painted the cut edges twice before we assembled the wood. This took extra time, but it is one secret tip to long life for painted wood that is exposed to the elements.
There are many deck railing systems that are not made from wood, and require little, if any, ongoing maintenance other than cleaning. You may be surprised to discover that some of them are not more expensive than the cost to rebuild and repaint the wood deck railing you desire. Your dilemma will be if you can live with the look.
No matter what deck-railing system you choose to use, be aware that there are strict building code requirements as to the height of the rail, the strength of the system and the spacing of the components. Safety is very important as people die and are seriously injured each year when they fall from decks because of failed railings.
To really extend the life of your deck railing, pay attention to the fasteners and metal connectors. When possible, use stainless steel. This is vitally important if you construct a deck railing that is exposed to salt-water spray. Be sure to use approved fasteners. If you do decide to use redwood, be aware that the California Redwood Association has literature that tells you all of the approved nails, screws, bolts and connectors to use.
Think twice about using lag bolts to attach deck posts to the deck as you assemble your deck railing. I just purchased a home where the carpenters used lag bolts. The railing wobbles back and forth, and is a safety hazard.
The better fastener to use are through bolts that have a nut and large washer on the back side. These fasteners, when installed correctly, will not fail as easily as a lag bolt. One issue with lag bolts is over tightening. If you have a rookie carpenter, he may feel that tighter is better while installing the lag bolts. If you turn a lag bolt in wood too much, you can strip the wood resulting in greatly diminished holding power. I am convinced this is exactly what happened on the wood deck in my new residence.
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Comments:
Ralph Griffith 08 Sep 2008, 09:42
Have always enjoyed your tips Tim, but the scrolling message has gotten
the best ot me!!
Why did you allow a super site become such a 'pain in the ..."
Roger 09 Sep 2008, 08:02
Ralph,
AsktheBuilder is not sponsored by a large corporation. Getting new subscribers is needed so Tim can provide all this information free-of-charge. The scrolling box is set to show up once every 30 days. Many sites have flash ads or a short video prior to video you want to watch. Those happen every time you visit. Tim's is only once a month.
Ralph Kleinsmith 29 Sep 2008, 20:56
I am building a deck with green treated wood for the base and composite for
the deck and railing.
What is the best way to secure the 4x4x48" posted to the joists? 2 carriage bolts (1/2" x 10")and box in? Someone told to put teh carriage bolts through the posts at an angle to grab more wood. Is that necessary? THANKS Ralph
bob gee 30 Sep 2008, 14:59
We just had a deck replaced on the back of our home. Our contractor used
two galvanized carriage bolts per column run straight through the posts and
the attached jogfqaoist. I never heard of running them thru at an angle and
doubt they would add any appreciable strength. Good luck, enjoy your new
deck.
David Hollon 30 Sep 2008, 17:37
Tim,
I have been told that is is bad to paint every surface of treated wood, that at least one surface needs to be left open so the wood can breathe. Is that true?
Claude Holloway 30 Sep 2008, 20:06
In the south, treated (cca) lumber is probably the most common lumber used
for decks. I have been advising people to wait at least 3 months before
staining it, and longer if it will be painted. Good advice, or
unnecessary?
Dave 01 Oct 2008, 08:13
Bolts are designed to be installed at 90 degrees to the surface being
clamped. Putting them at angles would actually weaken the joining
surfaces.
I constructed a deck with treated lumber, stained all surfaces prior to installation and allowed to dry. I also made sure that the end grain of the 4 X 4 uprights did not touch any surface. Leaving a 1/8" air gap to dry end grain surfaces. I used carriage bolts, washers nuts and locks. I still have a tight, undamaged railing.
Roger 01 Oct 2008, 13:46
Yes and yes again--I learned the hard way when replacing wood brick
molding
My last job I used Zinsser 123 primer , on all surfaces first. And the finished coat(s) went on really great. Now I have a good looking surface with no chalking or peeling. After several years it looks as good as the first day I finished it.
Peter 02 Oct 2008, 08:27
I have seen many comments about allowing new pressure treated (PT) lumber
dry before painting/staining. The wood often is delivered with a very high
moisture content. I have even heard of allowing 60-90 days before
finishing the wood. This would seem to conflict with your recommendation
to paint immediately. You comments sound great for cedar or other
non-treated woods but not for the pressure treated stuff. Are you really
suggesting prime and paint for new/wet PT lumber? How well will that work?
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