Heating Systems
Summary: Extremely cold temperatures can strain heating systems. Your heating system might be working overtime to keep up the heat in your home. Heat systems should be sized to meet the heat loss calculations for your home.
DEAR TIM: Are all heating systems the same? My heating system is running constantly and it can only maintain a temperature of 67 F in my home. It's very cold outdoors, actually below zero. But even still, I would expect the house to be comfortable even if the temperature got bitterly cold. Why is my home heating system not able to keep up? What can be done to keep me warm when it gets really cold? Valerie G., Lafayette, IN
DEAR VALERIE: Bitter cold temperatures are straining hundreds of thousands of heating systems all over the nation. Even sunny Florida and California can get unusual cold snaps. I think you may be a victim of an undersized furnace or heating system. There are many of these scattered about in your city, state and our great nation.
Furnaces, boilers, portable heaters, electric heaters, etc. are like shoes and clothes. They come in different sizes. A boiler that works to heat my home will not be large enough to handle heating a hotel or an office building. Heating contractors have the ability to actually calculate the heat loss of your home. That's the actual term - heat loss - and it's a measurement of how many Btus of heat your home loses each hour in its battle with cold temperatures.
When your house was built, the heating contractor was supposed to take all sorts of measurements that enable him to calculate very accurately the heat loss. These calculations are done on a room-by-room basis so the contractor can make sure that he pumps or pipes into each room the necessary Btus to make that room comfortable. These calculations are based upon a seasonal average low temperature in your area. When Old Man Winter drops the temperature far below this average for days on end, your furnace can't deal with the larger deviation.
Understand that the colder it gets outdoors the more Btus your home loses in an hour. This is pretty easy to understand when you think about it in broad terms. Assuming your home is at 72 F and it's 60 F outdoors, the inside of your home will stay comfortable for quite some time. But if it's -25 F outdoors, the temperature inside your home will drop like a rock. Your furnace or boiler works to offset this leakage of heat to the outdoors, and when it gets bitterly cold, it simply can't produce the amount of heat each hour that's being lost.
You can install a bigger furnace if you like, but what will happen is that in mild weather, it will run you out of the house as it sends vast amounts of heat into the house in a short amount of time. If your home is forced-air heat, understand that perfectly balanced systems have the air floating out of the ducts in lower velocity. This prevents whistling noises at the registers. You want gentle amounts of air flowing from the ducts that keep you warm without noise.
To keep yourself warm now, I suggest wearing more clothes. Wear long underwear, multiple layers on your legs and arms and even a hooded sweatshirt. Wear sheepskin-lined slippers and light gloves. It's really important to keep your hands and feet warm even inside your home. The extremities on your body send signals to your brain when they sense the temperature is starting to fall. It's a defense mechanism that helps preserve body heat.
If and when you get a new furnace or boiler, be sure you request to see the calculations that are required to show what your heat loss is. You can't assume the current size of your heating system is correct. The original contractor may have undersized it. It's really important that your system is sized to match the actual heat loss.
When a contractor calculates the heat loss of a home, they look at many things. They need to know the amount of insulation in the walls and ceilings, the number of windows and doors and how big they are, the type of construction of the house, the number of occupants, how many lights are in the home and many other things that affect the production of heat and how well the house can store this heat. It's not as easy as it seems.
Even the compass direction the exterior walls face is important. If the side of the house that has the most windows faces north, the heat loss will be greater than if they face south. In the northern hemisphere, the north side of the house gets no direct sunlight into the windows in the winter months. This can make a difference.
Simply take the time to ensure you get a heating system that will provide you with maximum comfort most of the time. In the rare times it gets bitterly cold, you'll need to snuggle with a loved one or just wear more clothes to keep warm at minimal expense.
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Comments:
YT 27 Dec 2008, 20:43
I have the same issue in my living room (high cathedral ceilings with lots
of windows)...
I have Forced Hot Water... however my boiler is sized just about right for the house... the problem is I don't have enough [linear-feet of] baseboard heaters/radiators to keep up with the heat loss of this room when the temps really dip. assume 580BTU/linear foot of baseboard.
frank 01 Jan 2009, 08:32
She may also just need to do a better job at keeping the warmth in and the
cold out. When the last time you checked around the house for cold drafts,
lack of insulation, and anything else that may be allowing the cold air in.
I don't use my north facing front door in the winter but instead will
enter either through the south facing basement door or through the garage
and come in through a small mud room. I have also insulated most of the
ducts in our basement and noticed the air coming from the noninsulated
ducts seems a little bit cooler.
Robert Godin 01 Jan 2009, 09:58
I have an old steam heat/radiator system. I had a leaky faucet or valve and
put a packing in it. However now that I have put it back in it doesn't
unscrew like it did and the radiator is not taking steam. What did I do
wrong?
Don Champagne 03 Jan 2009, 17:58
Re: "Shivering with a Skimpy Furnace" - Good piece, but of course be aware
that a heating system can also be inadvertently oversized. Three years ago
we bought a brick home built in 1940, with junk windows and a 20-plus year
old heating system. We immediately replaced the heating system with a
high-efficiency condensing unit that works well, but never more than a
small fraction of the time. Part of the reason is that we also replaced
the windows and did other things to reduce heat loss. I never discussed
the furnace size with the contractor, which was a mistake.
Jerry Mannix 03 Jan 2009, 21:18
Unfortunately Tim never mentions two stage or multi-stage furnaces which
are more forgiving in Valerie’s situation. If and when she replaces her
furnace she should have the contractor design the load per ACCA Manual J
standards and install a two stage furnace that is sized for worst case
(temperature) in her area. On mild days a two stage furnace operates at 60%
capacity using less gas and reducing or eliminating the short cycling
scenario that Tim describes. Then on the coldest days the furnace will
operate on high stage keeping her warm and comfortable. Plus a two stage
furnace normally only costs a few hundred dollars more than a single stage
and is well worth the money.
Jerry Mannix State of Virginia Master HVAC license holder
Dan Edelstein 03 Jan 2009, 22:45
Your response to Valerie G. of Lafayette Ind re "what can be done to keep
me warm.." was pretty inadequate and confusing. After lecturing on what
should have been done to size her inadequate system, you then suggest in
paragrph 6 that she shouldn't get a larger (appropriately-sized) system
because it will overheat her in warmer weather, and then proceed to
describe proper air flow. First, a proper sized system should be able to
account for the low temps she experiences on a regular basis. Secondly,
systems are designed to accomodate a variety of temp ranges, hence
thermostats (oversized AC is certainly a problem, but for other reasons).
Finally, you offer no solution except to bundle-up. How about the most
obvious simple cure-reducing the heat loss and heating lode by doing an
energy analysis. Improving insulation, air leaks, window treatments, etc.,
could in fact reduce heat loss and allow her current system to keep up.
Some sort of supplemental heat may be a cheaper solution if in fact her
furnace is inadequate. Bottom line is that you lost track of the most
important part of the question amidst your lectue.
Tom 04 Jan 2009, 17:34
New log home in NC mts. Have heat pump with furnance. What is best temp to
keep house set to. We were told between 68 to 70 degrees to be comfortable.
Kevin 04 Jan 2009, 18:38
I can't believe everyone has totally overlooked the simple and obvious: If
you have a forced air furnace, change the furnace filter! Heat can't get
out of your furnace to where you need it unless there is airflow through
your furnace. A restricted or plugged furnace filter will cause your
furnace to run lots, but little heat gets out.
jim hicks 05 Jan 2009, 03:17
consider closing heat registers in unused rooms where there is no danger of
water lines freezing.
if this is too severe, try to adjust the dampers in the heating ducts to move more air to where it is needed. all heat a few feet from the ceiling is usually a waste. have someone look at installing a large hanging ceiling/lighted fan to gently blend the home/room air by running it in reverse at the slow speed. if more circulation is required, install a small high efficiency fan [removable for cleaning] in a box duct [with a filter] that takes waste ceiling air to the basement floor. you might make one from a square fan commonly used to cool computers or the PCs power supply. like the ceiling fan, this works for all heating systems. an alternative idea would be to run an unfiltered box duct [with an adjustable damper], from the ceiling to a furnace cold air return. the largest amount of return air should come from the cool floors now the easy one - forced air heating is not working best if there is obstruction of any cold air registers. most are closed air systems and won't blow hot if they can't suck 'unrestricted' air. as a test, if you want to try it, open the cold air return at the furnace [where you change your furnace filter], tape extra filters there so no dust enters the blower motor or duct system. if this cures the cold house, search for obstructions, and or, for dampers or baffels or some kind of restriction in the cold air returns before buying a new heating system, 'pay the man' to inspect the furnace for efficiency. all it may need is a different oil nozzle or the gas jets cleaned or both adjusted. be careful. try not to hire the same business to adjust/inspect your current heating system as the business you might buy a new furnace. you may just purchase a new one you never needed most people are honest but there are exceptions. my dear ex wife was always complaining about her glasses and headaches and eye strain and on and on. whoa - enough - i dragged her to an eye surgeon. he said, you do not need glasses and never did. she experienced a miracle cure. it was as if she werestruck dumb. bless her; there were no more complaints and she never wore glasses after that. can you imagine the suffering of this pretty girl having to wear lots of ugly eye glasses to school and work, everyday of her young life ?? the sad part of the tale is that there were 9 kids in the family and all 11 were sold glasses by the same neighbourhood business.
Terry 06 Jan 2009, 14:20
Hello,
I'd like to know where to get an energy audit done on my home. I too experience my furnace running quite a bit. I've set the thermostat to 68 degrees fahrenheit during nights and 71 during the day. The side of my house with the most windows faces south. Also, I've had to turn of my whole house humidifier because all my windows fogged badly and never stayed clear as mold began to form in the window sills. Any suggestions for this? I'd appreciate any help you have. Thank you. View all comments |



