Crawl Space Ventilation Tips

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By Tim Carter
©1993-2010 Tim Carter

Summary: Crawl space ventilation became essential to avoid moisture damage in modern, energy efficient homes. Crawl space vents may now be eliminated with newer high performance vapor barriers. Convert your crawl space to an unventilated one with a quality vapor barrier, and minimize dampness, temperature swings, and gain storage space.

Tips on Ventilating Crawl Spaces

Ventilation of residential homes for many years was ignored. I believe the reason for this was based in the fact that many homes were self ventilating. Older homes had little or no insulation. We didn't have vapor barriers. Weatherstripping was unheard of 40 to 50 years ago. Drafts were common.

Basically, as we made our homes more energy efficient over the past 20 years, we have created moisture problems we never really had before. This is also true of crawl space ventilation. 

Homeowners, builders and remodelers have known for years that crawl spaces, especially in moist climates, need to be ventilated. Those that were not ventilated suffered. It was not uncommon for the wood subflooring, floor joists and any other wood framing member to begin to rot. Excessive moisture would cause hardwood floors over these spaces to cup and warp. All kinds of problems were noticeable.

Foundation vents became the standard ventilation technique. These vents often had sliding mechanisms which allowed them to be opened or closed. But when should you do what? Should they be open in the summer, the winter or year-round?

Well, there is no one answer. It depends on your climate. Homes in colder climates would benefit by having the vents closed in winter. This would help keep the room over the crawl space warmer. Homes in warm climates could keep the vents open year-round.

With the evolution of the high-performance vapor barriers, these foundation vents may prove to be a thing of the past. Numerous room additions in Cincinnati are now built without foundation or crawl space ventilation. The building code permits it as long as the crawl space is tempered.Tempered crawl spaces are those that are slightly heated. In other words, they are similar to a basement. Think of it. In a regular house with a basement, you don't have vents. The basement may have one slightly opened heat duct. Or it may get its heat from the leaks in the heating duct trunk lines or the heat radiating from the boiler pipes.

In any event, a crawl space can be treated the same way. Eliminate the foundation vents, install a high performance vapor barrier, and then have the heating person dump a little bit of heat into the crawl space.

This can work to eliminate many problems. Often there are plumbing lines that travel through crawl spaces. People are constantly trying to keep these from freezing in colder climates. The crawl space can now be used as a realistic storage area. Dampness will be negligible. Temperature swings will be a thing of the past.

If you have an existing crawl space that is ventilated, you may consider switching to an unventilated one. There are distinct benefits.

In the event you wish to keep your crawl space ventilated, the more air movement within the crawl space the better. This is true if you currently have a low performance vapor barrier. Don't count on the vapor barrier to solve your problems.

Treat your crawl space like your attic area. The more air the merrier! You can't have too much air change in your crawl space, especially if you have a poor vapor barrier.

If you decide to install a high performance product, be sure to follow the instructions. The vapor barrier is only as good as the installation! Be patient and take your time.


Author's Notes:

I received this email from Michael P, Cincinnati, OH. Here's how he helped with his crawl space problem.

"I live in Turpin Hills and wanted to thank you for your advice for sealing a crawl space. This is our third winter in our home and the basement is always much colder than previous basements from other homes. I did as you suggested and put heavy duty, thick plastic on the gravel and put doors on the opening of the crawl space. It's been a few weeks and I can see water droplets forming under the plastic. I may put a second layer of plastic for good measure. The basement is warmer and so is the room above the crawl space. I don't smell the mustiness either. Thanks again for the tip."






Comments:

Liz
07 May 2008, 11:14
My house was built in 1930. It is a terracota cinder block style meaning that the bricks are the size of cinder blocks but are made of a brick material. The house has a crawl space and some ventalation. In the fall and spring when we leave the windows open there are several places on the wood floor that sweats. What is the best way to get this to stop? We want to refinish the wood floors but are concerned because of the wetness. Thanks soo much!
James
16 Jun 2008, 19:26
Our crawl space has a cement floor with no plastic membrane vapor barrier under the concrete. Can we put one on top?
Diane
17 Aug 2008, 16:56
Dear Tim,

I live out in the country and my house has no basement, just a crawl space with a sand floor. It is now summer time and the floor is damp to wet.

I was told by someone to keep the vents closed up to make the Central Air Conditioner work better. Someone else told me to keep the vents open/screened to let the air circulate.

Hovever now that it is open the AC does not seem to be working as well.

Which is it open vents or closed? How do I dry up my crawl space?

Diane
Bill
11 Nov 2008, 18:41
I bought this house 2 years ago and the front bedroom and the bathroom are always cold.It has a crawl space under it. I asked the builder to insulate the floor joist and to install two outside vents but it still hasn't helped. I talked to a HVAC person and he told me to buy to inline buster fans for these two rooms . The ground is covered with gravel and the side walls are 4 feet of concrete. Would it help if I pulled some of the gravel back and installed heavy plastic on the side walls and on the ground and covered the ground back with the gravel. Please get back with me to let me know your thought. Thank You Bill
Mary
18 Jan 2009, 09:06
In the main article, it talks about installing a "high performance vapor barrier". Could the Builder or someone else explain where that is to be installed? I was taught the vapor barrier for, say, fiberglass insulation in stud walls goes toward the heated side, so vapor coming from showers, etc. inside the heated house is trapped before it flows into the insulation, cools down and turns into water, gets the insulation all soggy and therefore ruining the insulating quality of air pockets in the fiberglass. Are you trying to make a barrier for the water vapor from the heated house, or for the liquid water from the ground?

Where do you put the vapor barrier in a sand floor 2 1/2 foot high crawlspace under a brick house in Central Virginia. I don't think heat ducts go through it, but possibly a hot water pipe from hot water heater inside house to kitchen sink inside house travels that way. Thanks.

And could it hurt to seal open vents for the few months in Virginia when sometimes it is 10 degrees and a few days later 60?
Rob
17 Feb 2009, 13:33
OK, so I'll use the vapor barrier techniques you've outlined to control moisture, but we also have a radon issue. What about using vents to vent radon from our crawlspace? I've considered stack ventilation to get the air moving through the vents a little better.
Beverley
21 Apr 2009, 14:51
We have a new home in Montana. After 9 months, we found mold and apparent moisture damage near one of our main floor bathroom vents. Contract stated it must be condesation from the vent pipe and he could just apply a barrer paint to clean up the damage. This home is 4000 square feet, split between a full basement and main floor living. Fully insulated and high grade materials used, at least we paid for such. What's your take on the moisture issue?
Brian
14 May 2009, 08:43
I am building a sunroom attached to my home,in New Brunswick, Canada. The sunroom is on concrete posts with an insulated floor & open under.I have left 1 ft. under joists for ventilation. I plan to use good quality vapour barrier. Should I have any moisture problems? Thanks
Darlene Smith
14 Jul 2009, 12:04
We have a cabin in southern VA. not much of a area to work but it has dirt floor with plastic laying over it - can be put concrete pavers to make a cleaner floor? do we need to put plastic under pavers? some of the area has gravel under the plastic, how should this be saftely to do the floor?
Bill Evans
21 Jul 2009, 15:46
I have a vacation home in Ocean City, MD with a crawl space built in 1984. It has a plastic vapor barrier (no longer in good shape) and vents with a humidity triggered vent fan. Some insulation is hanging, suggesting that condensation does occur. I was recently advised to seal up the vents and have a dehumidifier installed. Would you care to comment?
thanks!

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