R Value Guidelines
Summary: Using R value guidelines to upgrade your insulation is likely a smart move. R values, established by the U.S. Dept. of Energy for walls, ceilings, floors, and other areas of your home, are really minimum requirements. Check insulation R values recommended for your area on the map and table here. Increased insulation R value in your ceilings and wall insulation will bank extra energy dollars saved in no time!
Ceiling and Sidewall Insulation R-Factor Guidelines
Within the past few years, the Department of Energy has developed new insulation guidelines. These are minimum standards. There is absolutely nothing stopping you from installing more insulation. The only thing you need to consider is the long-term payback. For example, I built my home over ten years ago. At the time, the guidelines for ceiling insulation were an R-30 in my climate zone. I doubled that and installed an R-60 ceiling of blown-in fiberglass. Did I waste my money? I think not. My neighbors fuel bills for houses smaller than mine are nearly double! I save approximately $1,000 per heating season. I probably save an additional $400 during the cooling season. Some of these savings can be attributed to thicker sidewall insulation, an air infiltration barrier, and tight building practices. However, in your existing home, you might save $150 to $200 per year on average. If it costs you only $300 more to upgrade to an R-60 or more, do so! Within two to three years, you will be saving money.
The U.S. Department of Energy, Office of Energy Efficiency & Renewable Energy, has also published Technology Fact Sheets on basement insulation; crawlspace insulation; slab insulation; wall insulation; and ceilings & attics.
The map below is vastly different from the old guideline maps that showed only five climate zones. If your city is located on the borderline of one of the zones, always upgrade to the higher zone. It will not cost that much. Ask the manufacturers for installation guidelines. You need to learn how to do it right. Knowledge is power!
for New Houses in Six Climate Zones
* "These recommendations are cost-effective levels of insulation based on the best available information on local fuel and materials costs and weather conditions. Consequently, the levels may differ from current local building codes. In addition, the apparent fragmentation of the recommendations is an artifact of these data and should not be considered absolute minimum requirements." ... US Dept. of Energy
Insulation Zone Map Guide
The following table shows the different R-Values that you need to achieve in ceilings, walls and floors with respect to the zone you live in. Study it for a few moments and it will make sense.
(A) R-18, R-22 and R-28 exterior wall systems can be achieved by either cavity insulation or cavity insulation with insulating sheathing. For 2 in. x 4 in.x walls, use either 3-1/2 in. thick R-15 or 3-1/2 in. thick R-13 fiberglass insulation with insulating sheathing. For 2 in. x 6 in. walls, use either 5-1/2 in. thick R-21 or 6-1/4 in. thick R-19 fiberglass insulation.
(B) Insulate crawl space walls only if the crawl space is dry all year, the floor above is not insulated, and all ventilation to the crawl space is blocked. A vapor retarder (e.g. 4- or 6-mil polyethylene film) should be installed on the ground to reduce moisture migration into the crawl space.
(C) No slab edge insulation is recommended.
NOTE: For more information, see:
U.S. Department of Energy
Technical Information Center
P.O. Box 62
Oak Ridge, TN 37830
or Energy Savers - Tips on Saving Energy & Money at Home from U.S. Department of Energy, Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy.
|
|
Comments:
Ryan 14 Apr 2008, 14:39
Tim,
I am currently building a home on an un-vented crawlspace in Central Arkansas. There is also an extra storage area utilized in the space with a garage door. I have installed a high performance vapor barrier that overlaps 6" with taped seems throughout the crawlspace. The vapor barrier also laps up onto the exterior walls of the crawlspace. The HVAC ductwork is on the interior of the home in furdowns, so there is no ductwork in the crawlspace. Would it be necessary to insulate the crawlspace walls (concrete block), and if so, what type of insulation would be sufficient for the job?
Mark Stewart 06 Jul 2008, 13:14
I want to know about R values when buying a fifth wheel travel trailer.
I want to stay the winter in Montana And need to know what R factors would be required. Thanks Mark
Gayle Austin 27 Sep 2008, 08:49
I would like to put an insulation board on the exterior of my home. the
highest that we can locate is a 4 or a 5 for a 3/4" could you tell me if it
is worth taking the siding off and replacing with either of the above R
factors. What would be the difference between the 4 or 5 and would it be a
financial savings. If not, what would you recommend to increase the R
factor in the walls of our home. We live in the norther part of PA.
matt 29 Oct 2008, 07:55
I am trying to choose between wet sprayed cellulose and wet sprayed rock
wool. This is new construction, so all walls and ceilings are open. Any
thoughts on which might perform better? Which one has a higher r-factor?
Thanks. View all comments |



