Tim,
I am currently building a home on an un-vented crawlspace in Central Arkansas. There is also an extra storage area utilized in the space with a garage door. I have installed a high performance vapor barrier that overlaps 6" with taped seems throughout the crawlspace. The vapor barrier also laps up onto the exterior walls of the crawlspace. The HVAC ductwork is on the interior of the home in furdowns, so there is no ductwork in the crawlspace. Would it be necessary to insulate the crawlspace walls (concrete block), and if so, what type of insulation would be sufficient for the job?

I want to know about R values when buying a fifth wheel travel trailer.
I want to stay the winter in Montana
And need to know what R factors would be required. Thanks
Mark

I would like to put an insulation board on the exterior of my home. the highest that we can locate is a 4 or a 5 for a 3/4" could you tell me if it is worth taking the siding off and replacing with either of the above R factors. What would be the difference between the 4 or 5 and would it be a financial savings. If not, what would you recommend to increase the R factor in the walls of our home. We live in the norther part of PA.

I am trying to choose between wet sprayed cellulose and wet sprayed rock wool. This is new construction, so all walls and ceilings are open. Any thoughts on which might perform better? Which one has a higher r-factor?

Thanks.

I reside in Zone 2. My house block built (1951) On a cement slab. Lots of windows mostly old things. Just put in a new 90% efficent propane furance. House also has a pellet stove that is supposed to be able to heat the entire house We have new, insulated exterior doors but will be adding storm doors as well.

I wanted geothermal heating but was told my house is too poorly insulated to make geothermal a viable option. ( I was told come back when the walls are R-18; and attic is R-40)

Getting mixed responses about the quality of my attic insulation. Some have said it is R-30 and others have said -- maybe R-20 to R-24 in places. VERY tight attic space but not impossible for workers to get into it. Roof is metal. (Base insulation is blown in cellulose with no apparent damage to it (no moisture, nor rodent activity, etc).) Heat ducts go through the attic and apparently are uncovered for the most part. Eve hang over where the cinder block comes into the roof, I have been told has NO insulation.

Would like an R-50 in the attic. What would be the best route to go? Thinking of a combination of insulation material (spray in foam and fiberglass??) . Would it be advisable to clear out the old material and put in new?

AREA TWO:

I don't believe my cinder block walls were insulated with anything. MAYBE there is a tiny moisture barrier wrap on the outside which was then covered by four in brick.

Some folks have told us--NOTHING you can do about the exterior walls for insulation; others suggested drilling holes into the cinder block and blowing in insulation; yet another suggested blowing it down from the attic (but it is tight up there).

I recently saw another farm house getting wrapped on the outside with something that looked like thick foil. I got the idea that insulated vinyl. We had the north side exterior wall insulated and covered with vinyl. WHAT an improvement. And we have replaced all the windows on the north side with energy efficient modern windows. But, I think at best we are at an R-11. I would really like an R-18.

Before I finish the other three sides of my house, is there a better way to increase the insulation level of these walls?

Is is possible to blow insulation into the walls?

AND FINALLY, I was just reading about insulating the base around slabs. I have never heard of this.

Can anyone tell me what this is? How is it done?

THANK you in advance to anyone and all who can help give me some guidance.

I have a log home here in eastern pennsylvania of approx. 1300sq ft. The roof consists of 2.25 inch thick rewood boards 6inches wide, tongue and groove assembly. above that is what I call composition board(compacted floor sweepings). Then felt paper and then shingles. I have a "leaky" roof in the winter and no problems in the spring or summer. I have been told that the problem is condensation and that the roof needs to be torn up and then insulted and a new roof put on. My question is two-fold. Does this sound accurate as far as the diagnosis? If so, what is the R-factor that I should be looking for? One of the quotes is to install Atlas Cross-vent system and that would give me a 6.5 R-factor. The roof that is on now is only six years old. I tried to save money by having "family" help put it on but.... Looking for some real answers, Steve

Tim: Our client has an issue in a parking garage ceiling that constructed of double "T's" and concrete. The floor temperatures of the Offices above are very warm from the transfer of heat (we are Zone 2 Phoenix). THey would like to know if they insulate the floor with a R-7 or R-9 what would a 100 degree F floor temperature be reduced to? Same for 125 degree floor temp? Thank you!

help with wall insulation

I'm building a new home and the living area will be a vaulted ceiling with a 12/12 pitch. It will be lined with tongue/groove wood (5 in). Is is best to insulate the top side of this ceiling with celulos or the underside of the roof with foam? Because of the high ceiling, R value for that area needs attention.Thanks, RI

We are building a separate shop with a storage area up(Gambrel barn style). We are in area 6 (Hamilton, MT), what insulation do you suggest?
Thanks, CL