Cast Iron Pipe Tips and Suggestions
Cast Iron Pipe Tips and Suggestions
Cast iron pipe is really easy to install. I have installed it myself on several recent jobs. You really only need two tools to install this fine material: a snap cutter and a small torque wrench. The snap cutter is an interesting tool. There are two types of cutters, both of which cut cast iron pipe by snapping it in two. The cutter has carbide cutting wheels that are attached in between the links of a chain. The wheels surround the pipe at the point where you want it cut. You apply pressure to the cutter with your arms and BINGO, the pipe snaps in two very cleanly.
Assembly of the pipe is even easier. The pipe and fittings are attached to one another by using rubber gaskets that slide over the ends of the pipe. The gaskets have small ridges on the inside to firmly grasp and seal the pipe. A large stainless steel band completes the installation. This clamp slides completely over the rubber gasket and squeezes it firmly against the pipe. When the clamps are installed properly and tightened according to the manufacturer's recommendations, the joints absolutely will not leak. Since the clamps are made of stainless steel, moisture, salt spray, etc. will not affect them.
Weight Considerations
Cast iron is a heavy material. It needs to be supported adequately so that it does not fall. Homeowners or non-professional plumbers who try to do their own installations often do not install adequate supports when installing drain piping. This is especially true of plastic PVC piping. They feel how light the pipe is and feel that they only need to support the weight of the pipe.This is where they make a mistake. What they fail to take into consideration is the weight of the pipe when it is filled with water! Drainage pipes can readily fill with water for two reasons: clogs or temporary filling due to large discharge amounts of water from multiple fixtures. I have seen a small 1 1/2 inch branch line from a kitchen sink completely fill with water when a standard double bowl sink was drained. Recently, I relocated my kitchen sink drain line. After the work was completed, I filled the sink bowls to flush the line of any small installation debris that may have found their way into the plumbing lines. Because I installed a cleanout which faced the ceiling, I was able to view the water as it rushed by. I was amazed to see the entire pipe fill with water as the plugs were pulled from both sinks.
You may choose to use this information to help you keep your drain lines clear. I do this once a week. I fill both sinks with water and pull the plugs! Flush a toilet or two at the same time if you wish to really clear your entire sewer line. If the plumbing system is sized correctly and you have no obstructions, you will not cause any harm to your system.
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Paul Klein 24 Apr 2008, 18:28
I'm wanting to replace a galvanized section of pipe riser from the
underground cast iron with plastic pipe. The connection from the galvanized
pipe to the cast iron is a lead seal into the bell. How do I protect
against the lead going into the sewer line when I heat it to remove the
galvanized connector? How should I clean the cast iron bell before I seat
the rubber seal around the plastic pipe that goes into the cast iron bell?
Will scrapping the excess lead from the bell sufficient? or do I need to
wire brush it clean?
Bob Hollier 26 Aug 2008, 17:49
Hello,
I have a cast iron toilet stack with a lead fitting for the toilet. There had been a piece of 3" copper with the toilet bracket that had slipped into the cast pipe sealed with the concrete rope. Needless to say it didn't seal very well. I was wondering if you knew of a transition method to seal this stack properly as I am renovating the bathroom including a new floor. Note-6" below the floor there is a "y" that the old lead pipe went into. So there is the large or female end of the pipe. I look forward to hearing from you soon with any suggetions you may have. Thanks, Bob Vancouver, Canada
Bruce Hart 31 Aug 2008, 23:08
how can I reseal old cast iron 3" fittings without removing them or
disconnecting them? Is it possible?
homewrecker 11 Sep 2008, 15:40
need to replace a section of black pipe coming fron the toilet that needs
replaced along with the flange can this be done with pvc or something
to stop a leak before i bought this house the old owner took a section of
pvc and droe it into the top of the black pipe how do i repair this
homewrecker howardsam@hotmail.com x
Ivan 27 Jan 2010, 16:07
The scoping of my newly bought 1970s fixer upper showed a 3" Cast Iron (CI)
pipe transitioning to a 4" Vitrified Clay (VC) material. There was a lot
of built up inside the CI and several sections of the VC were miss-aligned
or separated where the tree roots penetrated the pipe. The Plumber
recommended to install a 2-way cleanout outside the house and to consider
trenchless technology (lining or pipe burst) to avoid further problems.
Any suggestions or comments on these technologies? Thank you. --Ivan
Scott 20 Aug 2011, 20:18
While unclogging a drain today, I removed the plastic cap on the outside
1-1/2" access in order to drain all the water out of the line prior to the
clog. I found that the cast iron pipe fitting is heavily corroded and has
large amounts of rust buildup on the threads. Only about 1 or 2 threads
were useable. how can i clean up the threads so the plug will actually
screw in, instead of just wedging it in on the 1 or 2 threads available?
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