Plywood - Proper Installation & Handling
Summary: If plywood is not dealt with properly, it can swell and create major
problems with roofing, flooring or siding. Correction to this wood
product problem can clean your wallet. These tips cover plywood
characteristics and proper installation of plywood. Read, be informed,
and extract maximum useful life from your plywood project.
Related Articles: Manufacturers & Associations, Attic Ventilation Primer,
Ventilation Hints,
Roof Plywood Swelling
Plywood Tips
Many people have seen plywood swell. It is not a pretty sight. Individual pieces of plywood buckle, twist and sometimes bubble or delaminate. These problems are, more often than not, caused by water or water vapor.
When this swelling takes place after the plywood is installed, flooring, roofing, and or siding products can begin to look less than perfect. Corrective measures can be expensive. Hoping that the plywood will shrink and return to its original shape can be futile. Rarely, if ever, will the plywood return to its original shape and size.
The key to avoiding these problems is to plan for the swelling. This is accomplished quite easily if you simply follow established guidelines offered by plywood manufacturers and associations.
Plywood and Expansion
Wood, because of its cellular and fibrous structure, can readily absorb water. It can absorb water in the liquid state as well as the vapor state. This is extremely important to know, as many residential problems are related to water in the vapor state.
When water vapor levels rise, the cells within a piece of plywood pick up the water. The cells begin to expand ever so slightly. This expansion is greatest along the face of the grain of a piece of wood. This means that on a piece of 4 x 8 plywood, you can experience expansion due to swelling across the 4 foot dimension as well as the 8 foot dimension. Don't forget, plywood has the face grain aligned in two directions! That's why they call it plywood. The face grain of each ply, or layer, is oriented 90 degrees to the ply immediately above or below. You can see this orientation and layering when you look closely at the edge of a piece of plywood.
This means that plywood expands both lengthwise and widthwise when it is subjected to excessive moisture. Knowing this, it is important that you plan for this expansion.
Puckering Plywood
I have seen hundreds of houses where the roofing plywood has been installed improperly. The evidence is unmistakable.
Depending upon the time of day, the angle of the sun in the sky and the pitch of a roof surface, sunlight will expose minor imperfections in either the shingles or the plywood beneath the shingles. The humps and bumps in the roof cause the light to be reflected differently from the ceramic granules on the shingles.
If you install plywood sheets tightly against one another, the edges tend to pucker upwards when they expand. This happens because there is no other direction for them to go to relieve the swelling pressure. In severe cases, the sheets of plywood can actually create humps and dips between the roof framing members.
The Solution - 1/8" Spacing
Plywood manufacturers are aware of these problems. Virtually every one recommends that you, your carpenter or builder create a 1/8 inch gap around all edges when installing plywood. This gap will minimize or totally eliminate any puckering caused by swelling. Use a 16d sinker nail for this purpose. The shaft of the nail is slightly larger than 1/8 inch.
Nailing is Important Too!
In order to achieve the best results when installing plywood products, it is very important to use the proper size nail. The nailing pattern that is used is also very critical. Not all plywood applications require the same size nail or spacing between nails. You must check before you nail. Not only that, the spacing of nails on the edges of a panel are frequently different from the spacing within the panel.
Wind Forces and Plywood
A 4 x 8 piece of plywood when exposed to wind forces is nothing more than a large sail. I have almost been blown off roofs on windy days when handling plywood. Because of the large profile that plywood presents, it is important to nail the edges securely. Strong winds can begin to easily pull plywood from walls or roofs in the event they have not been secured properly. Many manufacturers recommend that nails be spaced no farther apart than 6 inches on the edge of a sheet.
Also, nails should be no closer than 3/8 inch from the edge of a panel and driven flush. Do not countersink these nails!
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Comments:
Al Schneider 06 Dec 2007, 18:07
I am building a 3 season gazeebo and would like some advise on roof
decking. I planed on using a T-111 type plywood with the groves visible
from the inside to give it a little character (tounge & groove is too
$$$).
I'm planning finishing with corrugated sheet metat. Obviously, any fasteners with protrude through to the visible interior. Question. Do I need to install a secondary layer of OSB over the plywood to prevent the fasteners from poking through the other side? If so, isn't this a lot of unnecessary weight? Is there a "lighter" option? Is there a maufacturer out there that produces plywood laminated with tounge and groove overlay. Thank you....
AsktheBuilder 06 Dec 2007, 19:31
Al,
Install 2x2s over the T-111. Space them at 16 oc as if they were traditional rafters. The added benefit being a valuable air space under the metal roofing.
charkles Campbell 21 Dec 2007, 23:51
What is the proper spacing of nails for a 4X8 sheet of plywood?
Aloha, CC
AsktheBuilder 22 Dec 2007, 07:36
Charles,
That is a building-code question. You need to ask your local building inspector.
Monte 12 Mar 2008, 23:18
Our ten year old plywood floor has only had linoleum on it for seven or
eight years now (kitchen)and has developed a series of speed bumps possibly
related to an incident when a truck ran into and cracked our foundation. I
can see no damaged wood when looking up from the crawlspace so I suspect it
has delaminated...? Do we remove the linoleum and then just cut out the
broken wood replacing it with new or can we just put a hundred or so screws
through the flooring and lay a new floor on top?
AsktheBuilder 15 Mar 2008, 07:07
Monte,
Did you read all of the columns in my Vapor Barrier category? Sounds nuts, but if your crawl space does not have a vapor barrier or the right kind, that is what is causing the humped plywood.
jimbo 24 Mar 2008, 20:34
i work on a framing crew in NC and we nail off the plyboard "osb" which is
7/16 thick the nail countersinks at least 3/8 or a 1/4 b/c the gas
compressor is such a beast, we have like 180 psi - 220 psi at all times
some times it blows the nail gun a part....i tell the boss but he says
fu$k it... and says it not my house.. and some time whole sheets wont even
be nailed off
AsktheBuilder 25 Mar 2008, 07:31
Jimbo,
Have you ever thought of getting down off the roof and turning the pressure regulator knob while your boss is in the Port-a-Potty????? I urge you to do the right thing..... You boss is the type of person that gives this industry a BAD reputation. He is also bad for the ecosystem as all he is thinking about is making more money for himself. You should think about starting your own company and become the highest-quality framer within 250 miles. You will NEVER be without work once you get the word out to all of the quality builders in your area. They are desperately looking for workers who really treat the trade as a vocation instead of a job.
johnny piseno 17 May 2008, 07:29
I ned to replace some rotted plywood under my shingles. Can I remove the
shingles from bottom to top just to replace over the plywood. What is your
recommendation.
JJ 10 Jun 2008, 19:35
In fixing my 2nd story deck, I noticed that the dry-rotted deck flooring
was actually sheets of plywood covered with some sort of cement/rock mix.
Since we are planning to do major remodling within the next 5 years, I'd
like to replace the deck flooring with sheets of plywood. I assume that
since plywood was previously used, I can replace it without the cement/rock
covering. Is this a feasible option? What type (OCP?) of plywood would
withstand the weather conditions (northern california)? I don't really care
about the cosmetics - should weather treat the plywood? Thank you for your
help.
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