Tips on Sealing New and Old Blacktop Driveways

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: Blacktop and asphalt sealing is incredibly important for maintaining a good driving surface. With three basic types of sealers to choose from, which should you use? Follow these tips for an excellent sealing job.

Related Articles: Asphalt Sealers, Blacktop's Properties, Blacktop Sealer Associations

Different Sealers

There are three basic types of blacktop or asphalt sealers: simple emulsified asphalt; refined coal tar sealers; and 100 percent man-made acrylic polymer sealers.

The simple asphalt emulsion sealers offer the lowest levels of protection. In essence, they simply contain the same asphalt that was used to bind the sand and gravel together in the first place. This asphalt coating will oxidize and get brittle just like the asphalt you are trying to protect!

The next best sealer to use is manufactured using refined coal tar. Refined coal tar offers two distinct advantages: it is not dissolved easily by gasoline; and oil and UV rays do not readily make it brittle.

Asphalt is easily dissolved by gasoline and oil drippings from your car. Because of this, you should consider using refined coal tar products.

There is a wide variety of refined coal tar products. Some of them have additional additives such as rubber and rubber-like polymers which make them more elastic. These sealers often contain fine sand and clays. The sand makes the sealers more durable. The clays make the sealers easier to apply.

The best and most expensive sealers you can buy are those that contain almost 100 percent man-made ingredients. These are the acrylic sealers. If you have ever played tennis on a blacktop court that has the distinctive green and red sealers, you have walked on these acrylic sealers.

The acrylics in these sealers are unaffected by sunlight and air. They stay flexible for many years. I know of a house only one mile from mine that has used the red colored sealer with great success. The driveway sealer they use often lasts for six to eight years before requiring another coat.

Yes, these acrylic sealers cost almost twice as much as refined coal tar sealers, however they may be a better value for you. I would check it out if I were you. Also, these acrylic sealers are available in black, so your driveway doesn't have to look like a tennis court!


Tips on Sealing Old and New Blacktop Driveways

New Blacktop Driveways

New blacktop should usually be sealed within its first year. Depending upon the time of year it was installed, your climate, daytime temperatures, etc. the earliest you can seal your driveway is 90 days after installation. Your driveway should be exposed for at least 90 days where the daytime temperature is 70F or greater. This allows the lightest weight oils in the asphalt to evaporate, which in turn allows the blacktop to harden. This is very important!! If you do not let these oils evaporate, your blacktop may remain soft for a long time. Things such as bike kickstands, heavy metal objects, etc. will dent your new blacktop.

If you have anything that leaks oil, use cardboard to protect the new blacktop to keep it oil-free until such time as you can seal it.

When it is time to seal your new blacktop, follow the pointers in the following section.

Existing Driveways

Sealing a driveway is not much different than painting the walls or ceiling in your house. If you have ever painted a room correctly, you know that you must wash the surfaces to be painted, patch any holes in the plaster, caulk all cracks, and apply the paint in a uniform thickness (not too thin and not too thick). Driveways are just the same.

Important Tips for a First Class Sealing Job

  • Remove all mud, vegetation, loose particles of sand and gravel, etc. WASH the entire surface to be sealed with water, brush dirty spots, rinse, and remove standing puddles of water.

  • Patch any depressions with whatever patching compound is required. Deep holes will require cold blacktop patch. Shallow depressions (where the blacktop has slightly eroded) can be patched with various smooth asphalt patching compounds that often have the consistency of cake icing. Be sure to follow directions, as some of these compounds might need to dry for several days before they are sealed!

  • Patch any cracks 1/8 inch or larger. Deep cracks should be filled with coarse sand to within 1/2 inch of the surface. Wide cracks up to 1 inch width may require special acrylic crack fillers that remain more flexible.

  • Remove caked up oil drippings. Clean oil spots with special oil cleaners available from the sealer companies. Tough spots should have a special oil primer applied so the sealer sticks to the oil stained area.

  • Just before (and during) sealing, fog the blacktop with enough water to dampen the surface.This water helps the sealer to bond to the older blacktop.

Only seal your driveway AFTER the old sealer has worn away. Even if you use just an emulsified asphalt sealer from a quality manufacturer, this coating should last two to three years. Applying sealer every year is a mistake. It is simply overkill and a waste of money. Good luck on your sealing project!



Comments:

Connie Myers
16 Jul 2008, 19:49
I had my drive way sealed 2 days ago. The truck dumped the sealer in the drive then his transmission broke which left 3 large patches and several small patches of transmission fluid. They contuinued to work. I called the company they came today and washed the areas with gas. And put another light sealer over it. the fluid is coming through agAIN. I called AND THEY SAID i HAVE TO WAIT 2 WEEKS THEN THEY WILL PUT ANOTHER cleaner on it and reseal again Is this a good thing. I ask if this fluid would continue to eat my drive way under the sealer. they said no I sure could use some advice on this problem Thank you.
CAROL BOSIK
12 Sep 2008, 22:48
DONT LISTEN TO THEM
Bill Fitch
08 Apr 2009, 16:51
The contractor that installed my asphalt drive is dead set against using a sealer of any kind, ever.
Comments?
Aaron
22 May 2009, 14:44
I just had my driveway done. It took them 14 hours (3 men), and it is still drying. It doesn't look good because it isn't even. It has rough spots. They had no machine roller to flatten it out, but just a small 3X5 machine they walked with. It is only two days old, and I am wonder what I can do they make it look better--like the road looks. When do I have it sealed? Thanks so much.
Bill
22 May 2009, 15:02
To Aaron,
I do not know what you can do about the appearance of your driveway.If it doesn't appear to be setting up, don't drive on it, most important, do not park your car on it. I would call the contractor back. As for sealing it: let it go for a year or two at least.
Nelson
10 Jun 2009, 17:14
Were can I get acrylic driveway sealer?

I have used it in the past and the manufacturer, Monsey, has been bought out and discontinued the product. I can only find it for shipment within Canada.
Brian
10 Jun 2009, 17:21
Nelson,

You DO NOT want to keep putting an acrylic sealer on your driveway. The acrylic sealnt doesn't cure into your asphalt nor does it contract/expand at the same temperature your driveway does. So While you're still spending money on a sealant your driveway will still be oxidizing, and when it get's too britle the Acrylic will not allow it to expand thus causing an elephant skin like cracking of the top layer, Monsey has an excellent tar based product liquid asphaltine which though will be more expensive, will benefit your asphalt by actually curing into it and restoring the asphalts natural elasticity.
Donna
15 Jun 2009, 07:03
We just had a sealer put onto our drive way and it's starting to peal after about 2 weeks of application. We have a side loading driveway, so getting into the garage requires us to turn our wheels while not moving. Is this going to be a continual problem or is there something I can apply to the driveway?
Brian
15 Jun 2009, 08:46
Donna,

Same thing I told Nelson above, except that you'v already had your Acrylic applied to the driveway.
Think of the Acrylic sealant just as it is; Paint!!!! Same with your fingernails, all the nail polish does is make them look nice while sitting on top. My suggestion at this point is for you to scrape away all the areas of chipped acrylic that you can and have some one come in and spray your driveway with a tar based liquid asphaltine, Price out companies you should be looking in the area of $200 on a driveway that would hold four cars, and an increase of about $50 per car length, anyone who's charging drastically less than that is not using a pure liquid asphaltine product and you will notice streaking where their cutting agents (diesel, varsol etc) has dried up. Despite the cost being higher applying a pure tar base product will give you 2 years of service as opposed to an annual for half the cost.
Donna
16 Jun 2009, 18:25
Thanks for the response, however Seal Master's coal tar sealer filler was used on the drive way, not acrylic. With that clarification what would be the cause of my problem? Shouldn't these fillers stand up to typical 3 point turn to get into a side loaded garage? My next door neighbor is having the same problem with the same product. This time a FedEx truck pulled into the drive way and damaged the drive (I guess they turned the wheels as well). I can't believe this product doesn't hold up and based on what I'm hearing in this forum a tar based product is the right way to go. Any additional thoughts are much appreciated.

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