Concrete Lifting
Summary: When a concrete slab cracks, crumbles, tilts or otherwise deteriorates within 5 to ten years of being installed, a homeowner has good reason to be disappointed. This is especially true of a slab that is in perfect condition but for one reason or another has tilted or sunken. Too many people have replaced these types of defects with new concrete, when they could have simply raised the slab through concrete lifting.
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Articles: Concrete Slabjacking, Reinforcing Steel, Slabjacking Tips, Concrete Slab Pinning
Lifting Concrete
The technology to lift concrete slabs has been around for many years. Highway slabs, airport runways, factory floors, etc. have been successfully raised for the past 40 years. However, until recently, the companies that did this work seemed to completely ignore the residential market. Now, in most cities, you can locate an individual who can magically raise a sunken or tilted concrete slab, floor or set of steps.
How is it Done?
The technology to lift concrete is centuries old. It is the same technology that is used to raise your car on a hydraulic lift at the car repair garage. Holes are drilled through the tilted concrete, usually two inches in diameter. A mixture of cement, sand, fly ash and water is then pumped into these holes under pressure.
This mixture has the consistency of a thick mortar. As it begins to flow beneath the slab, it exerts an equal pressure on every square inch of the concrete. Thus, if the pump produces just 50 to 100 pounds per square inch pressure (which isn't much) it can easily raise the slab.
You see, a concrete slab that is four inches thick only weighs 1/3 pound per square inch! Now do you see why it is so easy to raise a sunken or tilted slab?
Why did the Concrete Sink?
Good question!! There are all kinds of reasons. Usually, concrete slabs around your house tilt or sink because they were placed on fill dirt that was not compacted. This can happen just about anywhere.
For example, what about a sidewalk that is next to your foundation? How about a garage slab? What about a portion of a driveway or sidewalk that crosses a utility trench (one that contains a water, sewer, electric or phone line?) These situations almost always involve an excavation where dirt may have been simply dumped in after the work was complete.
Herein lies the problem. Buildings are built on dirt all the time. If done correctly, a house built on dirt will not settle or develop structural problems. The trick is to build the house on undisturbed dirt or soil that has good strength, or build it on compacted dirt that will support the structure.
Compaction
How many times have you dug a hole and tried to put the same dirt back in? Have you ever been able to do it without much work? I didn't think so. When you dig dirt, you fluff it. That is the technical term. In other words, you introduce much more air space around each clump or dirt particle than it had in the ground.
So, if you or your builder simply dumps dirt into a hole, trench or alongside a foundation, it will always have too much air in it.
The process of compacting dirt simply removes this excess air. Many years ago, shepherds noted that the paths that sheep walked on were very firm. They figured out that the shape of the sheep's hooves did an excellent job of compacting the soil on the path. That is why that big round roller that you see behind a bulldozer is called a sheep's foot roller!
Mother Nature will compact dirt. But, she often takes a while to do it. The sewer trench in my front yard continues to settle even after 10 years. Gravity and rainwater continue to force out the air I dumped into the trench.
This type of settlement not only causes concrete to tilt inwards towards the foundation, but it also causes a majority of basement leak problems. People generally don't recognize the the slow process of compaction as performed by Mother Nature.
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Comments:
Matt Dreis 29 Feb 2008, 19:46
Good water drainage on exterior foundation walls increases the odds that
water will drain away from the home or garage. Water that drains towards
the foundation will cause many problems. Concrete floors can heave
because of high moisture content in the soil beneath the concrete floor.
Water can also seep through the foundation walls and into the basement.
Mold could grow due the high moisture content within the basement.
Gutters used with properly sloped downspouts greatly reduces water drainage problems.
Jim Johnson 03 Sep 2008, 15:19
Hello, would like to know more about mud jacking, like mixtures, I know
that you said to use cement, sand, fly ash and water. Would just Ag lime,
port land cement and water work? also what if the slab settles and is right
on top of the dirt? Will it still lift? Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks Jim
Frank Gabourie 05 Sep 2008, 11:31
Mt deck around my pool needs to be raised in some areas. Do you have a
contractor that does work in Thornhill, Ontario Canada.
Larry 28 Nov 2009, 15:23
Hi, 5 years ago, we cemented my back yard, the landscaper that did it cut
shallow lines in various square sections, he said this was for drainage,
the lines are not that deep (say 1/2 inch or less), anyway, one of the
sections (ie, where he cut a 10 x 10 square), has decided to lift itself (I
am guessing because of growth underneath of grass or something) to where
that one section is now about an inch higher that the adjoining sections,
it is affecting the slope and drainage now, so I have to do something, can
I do something myself, or do I have to call in a professional? Any
suggestions?
Jacky 01 Mar 2010, 12:18
Hi, I bought a brand new home 10/08. I have a 10 + 10 concrete patio off
my back door. I live in southern Illinois. The patio cracked in half and
the side away from the house is now 2 inches higher. Why? and what should
I do? Please help.
Dick glover 22 Jun 2010, 09:10
Jacky, you are a Jacky ass! Larry , yes for the live of god! You idiots
crack me up with the complete lack if fucking knowledge
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