Could you point me in the right direction for information on building a
masonry chimney. Specifically on building and supporting the internal flue
structures for a three appliance chimney.
thanks
luverne
Chimney Construction Resources
Summary: The following resources are for chimney construction, design and maintenance. If you need to fill a large space around a chimney crown, try the following list of manufacturers who make cement stable silicone caulks. Also, ChimneySaver's CrownSeal, while not a project you can do at home, can help you with your chimney repair without having to start from scratch.
Related Articles: Chimney Cap & Crown, Chimney Crown Repairs
Chimney Construction Literature
The Brick Industry Association (http://www.bia.org) has published some wonderful technical information concerning the construction, design and maintenance of chimneys. I recommend that you go to the Technical Notes section of their web site and read the following articles:
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Cement Stable Chimney Caulks
Believe it or not, there is a huge difference between silicone caulks. The word silicone, when used with caulk covers a broad range of different ingredients. Some of these ingredients actually begin to break down in the presence of alkaline substances. Guess what concrete and brick mortar have in high abundance? You're right! Alkalines!
Well, there are silicone caulks that are not harmed by alkaline substances. These are the silicone caulks that contain a high amount of silanes. Silanes are a member of the silicone family. As you might imagine, you will never see the word silane on the side of a caulk tube. So how do you know? Well, the silane silicone caulks usually are the ones with the longest and best warranty.That is one way to shop for them.
Also, quite a few manufacturers actually identify their cement stable silicone caulks as concrete caulk or mortar patch caulk. The major brand name manufacturers almost all have a line of these masonry repair caulks and clearly label them for this purpose.
Filling Large, Deep Voids
The space around a chimney crown might be very deep. One could use three, four or maybe five tubes of very expensive caulk. The professionals, who caulk cracks like this, use a caulk backing material. This is simply a foam product which fills the void to within 3/4 inch of the surface. The remaining gap is then filled with the caulking material.
The following manufacturers make cement stable silicone caulks. Look for their products at your local home center.
- DAP
- Dow Corning
- Franklin International Titebond
- GE Silicones
Repairing an Existing Damaged Crown
OK, after reading this bulletin you decide to get up and look at your chimney crown. After the inspection you determine that it needs some attention. Yes, I know there is no overhang with a drip kerf. Also, the bricklayer went and poured the cap right against the flue liner. What a goofus! Should you get the sledge hammer out and start over? Maybe not.
I am aware of a repair method that may allow you to install a waterproof system right over the top of your existing chimney crown. It is ChimneySaver's CrownSeal.
Evidently, this system is installed by chimney sweeps and chimney repair specialists all across the nation. It is not a DIY project. The system works by applying a special waterproof flashing material directly on top of your existing crown. A flexible expansion material is placed beneath this flashing against the edge of the flue liner. A special waterproof coating is then applied on top of the flashing to finish off the job. The completed repair looks just about the same as your crown before the repair was started.
Would you like names of individuals close to your home who can install it? If so, go to the ChimneySaver web site and type in your zip code!
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Comments:
Luverne Paton 23 Jan 2008, 06:21
AsktheBuilder 23 Jan 2008, 16:27
Luverne,
The Brick Institute of America.
Tim 18 Apr 2008, 11:52
Help! I need some chimney advice. I live in a 1920s stucco house with the
chimney on the side of the house. The stucco on the chimney has large
cracks and some pieces are starting to fall off. Adobe-like brick was used
for the chimney and is disintegrating. Chimney contractors all agree that
the chimney needs to come down. What I'm struggling with is what to do
next, because their is a separate venting problem. The chimney vents a
wood-burning fireplace, a gas furnace, and a gas hot water heater.
However, the exhaust duct run in the basement has a long horizontal portion
that all the heating contractors shake their heads at, and the duct doesn't
draw well. Even after a chimney rebuild, I may still need to replace the
furnace and maybe water heater as well with side venting units. I love my
fireplace, but I'm not sure I love it the thousands of dollars this will
all cost. Can I simply take down the chimney, lose the fireplace, vent the
appliances out the side of the house appropriately, and have no chimney?
What are the venting requirements for a gas fireplace? Could I replace the
fireplace with gas is some kind of side-venting system that doesn't require
a full chimney?
Bruce 05 Jun 2008, 11:49
I am building a Timber frame home and have a chimney with two flues in the
center of the room. When the chimney reaches the ridge the flues have to go
on either side. What is the clearence between masonary and the fir timber?
Dean 16 Jul 2008, 19:53
I'm helping install a 360 degree metal chimney in a lodge in Ecuador in the
cloud forest. Our welder doesn't know why our chimney isn't drafting
properly... so I'm looking for help. It's 150 cm in diameter at its base
and rests on pillars 70 cm above the fire. The cone shaped metal chimney
extends up about 80 cm more to a hole that's 20cm. It then enters a pipe
that's 25 cm across and square. The pipe is about 5 meters long, and
extends well above the house. Any suggestions? We've tried a few things,
like putting dampers in the pipe, and in the cone (these were pretty
large). I know it being open on all sides makes proper draft difficult,
and that being in a lodge that isn't well sealed may hurt draft too. The
pipe seems to be carrying lots of smoke out efficiently, so I don't think
down draft is a problem. All the smoke initially rises, but then some
returns down the inside of the cone and comes out into the room, a lot at
times. Should the exit hole be larger at the top of the cone than 20cm?
This is what we think, but we can't convince the welder to do the work to
make it more. Another welder who build chimneys for restaurant ovens all
the time said it should be at least 30cm. Thanks for any help... the
sooner the better... Our boss arrives with a group on Monday! Thanks!
nazmin 13 Aug 2008, 12:21
hi
i would like to lose a gasfire because it just sticks out and takes up to much room, to do that i need to take down the chimney. so i was wondering how i can get it broken down for cheap. please let me know if you've got the answer.
Bruce 02 Sep 2008, 12:24
I am planning to build a house that has 2 chimneys in the design. I would
like to direct vent the fireplaces, but I want to have chimney-like
structures on the roof for architectural reasons.
Is there any reason why I can't do this? Is there anyone who prefabricates "fake" chimneys? I really don't want to have real chimneys going through the roof structure, but I still want "the chimney look". Thanks!
Wendy 12 Nov 2008, 02:16
Dear Tim
I have a late 1920's semi-detached house with back to back fireplace (with neighbour's)in living room. Now, when they light a fire next door, our living room fills with smoke! We had double-glazing installed before last winter and an extension added since last Spring, which has closed up one wall (except for an internal door) at one end of the living room. Could it be a fault with the chimneys, or due to the "sealing" so to speak of the room, or a coincidence? Your thoughts would be much appreciated on the possible cause and solution, Thanks.
David 05 Dec 2008, 21:39
On a A Frame mountain home what is the proper height of chimney and what is
the best cap.shound the chimney be higher than peak of roof.I am getting
alot of smoke coming out of fire box.
Charlie 30 Dec 2008, 20:59
I have a gas fire place. The house is frame construction. I get a
significant draft whether or not the flue is closed. I even get a draft
around the mantle. I was told by a fire place store that the chimney likely
is not installated. Can the chimney be installated? Other suggestions to
resolve the draft problem?
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