Copper Tubing Flaring Tool Video

By Tim Carter
©1993-2010 Tim Carter

VIDEO SUMMARY

Most people are familiar with hard copper tubing. You know the type that has to be soldered at the joints. But, there is another type of copper tubing that does not require soldering. Soft copper tubing is available in a variety of sizes. It can be bent without kinking. In addition, it uses compression fittings or flare fittings to create leakproof connections.

A special copper pipe flaring tool is required. This tool consists of two components. One piece is a clamp with holes for the various diameter tubing. Clamp this on the end of the copper pipe. The other piece has a conical point, holding arms and a screw.

But, wait! Before flaring the end of the tubing, be sure you slide the compression nut onto the tubing first. If not, you will not get it on the tubing. Once the nut is on the pipe, attach the second part on to the clamped piece with the conical point in the tubing. Tighten the screw to create the flared end on the copper tube.

Done this way, the connection will not leak. Working with soft copper tubing is very simple.






COMMENTS

victor
09 Nov 2008, 11:39
the video was nice but missing a step to flaring the line.How much copper tubing should be sticking out from the clamp to get the proper size on a 3/8 od or any other sizes.This is a very important step to showing someone the correct way.
Rick
05 Feb 2009, 15:37
Still waiting for a reply to the question above. I've been told
you set the pipe flush, and it seemed that way in the video, but I'd like to be sure. I'll know by tomorrow.
Mike
02 Jun 2009, 08:08
I have heard both ways and only one must be correct. Is it that we put the tubing flush to the fixture and then flare, or do we extend the tubing a little beyond flush, and then flare it? Does anyone know for sure. Rick, did you get an answer?

Thanks
mike
Mongo
13 Jun 2009, 22:20
The tubing should protrude above the flaring block 1/3 the depth of the chamfer in the flaring block.

Example, if the chamfer is 1/4" deep, then the tube should protrude 1/12" above the top of the flaring block.


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