Water Heater Anode Rod
Summary: Adding a second water heater anode rod will often double the life of a common water heater. The additional anode rod takes the place of the plastic dip tube that is found inside the cold water inlet of the heater.
Dear Tim: In your response to the writer who asked you about tankless water heaters you mentioned adding a secondary accessory anode rod to the traditional storage tank water heater.How do you do that? Would an installer of the tank know how to do that? And, how do you find the correct one (anode rod)?
After reading your article and many other home forums, I think I've changed my mind about getting a tankless water heater. I've been trying to search for recommendations on the traditional tanks (brands) but have not found sufficient information. Are most of them pretty much the same? Kenmore vs. Whirlpool, etc. ? Thanks, Patricia M., Pacifica, CA.
Dear Patricia: The secondary anode rod is placed in the cold water inlet portion of the heater. When shipped from the factory, the water heater has a plastic dip tube that forces the cold water to the bottom of the tank. This secondary anode rod is shaped just like the dip tube and performs the same function of sending cold water to the bottom of the heater, but it also adds another layer of electric protection to the water heater.
Any plumber worth his salt knows about these extra anode rods. If the person you are working with does not know, that tells you he is a rookie, does not pay attention to updates, and/or does not stay current with changes in the industry.
The water heater manufacturer offers these rods as an accessory. Just buy a heater that offers the accessory rod. Go to a real plumbing supply house to find one, not a home center. The heaters sold at plumbing supply houses are usually very good and for the most part let price be your guide. Better water heaters cost more money as they have better parts.
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Comments:
mike kennedy 13 Dec 2008, 09:25
Hi Tim your comment about the anode designed as a water inlet and
sacrificial anode combined does not exist. What does exist is a anode
designed with hot outlet and anode attached. Please reply if I'm wrong
Mark Levy 15 Mar 2009, 14:37
Hello Tim:
First time writer. Two questions. 1. I noticed your pieces on tankless water heaters are fairly old. Hasn't the technology improved a lot in the last 2 years? Do you still feel the same way as of March 09? 2. I noticed on your video about traditional hot water heaters that you had written on your own heater that a new or second anode had been installed several years after the initial heater installation... therefore I presume it is of benefit to do so even after the heater has been in use? Does this improve the heaters life expectancy even after initial installation? If so, I would like to install a secondary anode to my traditional heaters that are only three years old. What say you, worth it? -Mark
Wendy 23 Aug 2009, 20:49
this is related to the anode issue. the connection for the cold water
intake has leaked a bit and created mineral build up on the outside.
although I tightened the connection, it began leaking again; I tightened
again and went to Home Depot, suspecting something other than simple leak.
Seems there's something called "galvanic corrosion" created by joining two
dissimilar metals (e.g. copper pipe and steel water heater tank). I bought
a set of two dielectric heat traps (galvanized steel lined with plastic) to
replace the hot and cold water connectors and hope to extend the life of
this now 11-year-old water heater. Wish me luck.
Eric 14 Dec 2009, 15:31
Hi Tim, et.al.,
I used to be in the WH business, and now I'm in the anode business. The accessory anode rod that Tim writes about is indeed actually a combo HW outlet and anode rod, as mentioned by mike kennedy. This can be purchased and installed in your WH only if the original hot water outlet is just a nipple. The easiest way to determine this is to stick a screwdriver down the outlet (taking all safety precautions, of course). Or, you can look to see if there is an anode label on the top of the water heater. At that point, you can replace the existing anode (need a 1-1/16" socket), or disconnect the HW outlet and add the combo anode.... or do both! To Wendy: yes, beware of galvanic corrosion! One way to determine the condition of the tank is to pull the anode rod and inspect it. WH mfrs actually write this in the manual(you have to look for it, though). I suspect that your 11 year old WH is ready to go. The dissimilar metals are usually protected by the anode. But, once the anode goes, the dissimilar metals are the next point of cathodic protection. According to insurance industry surveys, most WHs average only 10.7 years.... so, you're close! I recommend buying a new tank (add a drain pan!), and maybe putting in the extra anode now, before the old tank leaks. If you want, you can keep the old tank, but make sure there’s a drain pan under it, and a water leak sensor next to it! Good luck! View all comments |
